StoneSkipper
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^^ HELL YES. I'm psyched about these news.
DESIGN CHANGE: Daniele Cavalli, son of Roberto Cavalli and his wife Eva and creative director of men’s wear, has left the family company, WWD has learned. Roberto Cavalli himself has taken over his son’s role starting with the fall collection.
The news of the exit of Daniele Cavalli, who has been in charge of the Italian brand’s men’s wear line since 2011, comes on the heels of a major shake-up at an executive level. On Friday, the company unexpectedly said its chief executive officer Gianluca Brozzetti and chief operating officer Carlo Di Biagio were leaving their roles.
wwd.comCOOPER EXIT: According to sources, Martin Cooper is exiting Belstaff, where he has been chief creative officer since 2011.
Cooper had joined the English outerwear brand to creatively spearhead its transformation after it was acquired by Labelux Group with additional investments by Harry Slatkin and Tommy Hilfiger. The designer had previously worked at Burberry Group, rising to vice president and design director for outerwear during his 16-year tenure.
Cooper in mid-January in Milan presented the men’s collection, which was inspired by the 1965 International Six Day Trial race on the Isle of Man with strappy shearling leather coats, a claret parka lined with black shearling, and voluminous waxed motorcycle capes.
styleUnexpected news comes from the house of Sonia Rykiel today. The brand announced that Julie de Libran has been appointed as artistic director, replacing Geraldo da Conceicao, who spent only five seasons at the helm of the label. Like Da Conceicao, De Libran comes from Louis Vuitton, where she essentially served as Marc Jacobs’ right-hand woman during her five years as the house’s studio director of women’s ready-to-wear. She also headed up Vuitton’s Resort and Pre-Fall collections. De Libran, who did stints at Prada, Versace, Gianfranco Ferré, and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac before her Vuitton tenure, departed LV after Nicolas Ghesquière took the reins. Her first collection for Sonia Rykiel—a house best known for its Parisian irreverence and gorgeous but wearable knits—will debut in Paris during the Spring ’15 shows.
So why the sudden switch? For starters, De Libran has more experience—and industry clout—than Da Conceicao. She was more or less the face of Vuitton’s pre-collections and is familiar with speaking to the press, and designing in line with a particular style or vision. It’s worth noting that the house and First Heritage Brands, which acquired an 80 percent stake in Sonia Rykiel in February 2012, have expressed via a release that De Libran’s hire is part of a “relaunch strategy and accelerated international development.” One might argue that given her name recognition and design track record, De Libran is more qualified than her predecessor to “develop” the label. Furthermore, as Sonia Rykiel’s daughter Nathalie states, De Libran is “a woman, a Frenchwoman. An international woman and a talented one. A woman who enjoys dressing herself and designing for other women.” While one could, I suppose, make a case for reverse sexism here, the fact that De Libran is a femme française who adores fashion (just take a look at the street-style blogs or her Instagram account for proof) and manages to juggle a career and a family allows her to understand the Sonia Rykiel ethos better than a male designer might. Whatever the reason for her appointment, I look forward to seeing what the designer brings to Rykiel in September.
Dior Beauty;
Out; Tyen
In; Peter Phillips
Peter has left Chanel and is now appointed as the brands Creative and Image Director.
I don't know if it was posted, but I just read in L'officiel Lithuania, that Oscar de la Renta is searching for new creative designer. Before leaving de la Renta wants to get in touch with new creative director. It's written that Prabal Gurung or Olivier Theyskens are potential new designers for Oscar de la Renta fashion house.
style.comAndrea Incontri Tapped for Tod’s Menswear
Tod’s continues to amp up its ready-to-wear presence. Back in September, the leather goods company brought on Alessandra Facchinetti to design its women’s collections, and today it announced that Andrea Incontri has been hired as the label’s new creative director of menswear.
“Becoming part of a company like Tod’s is both an honor and an exciting challenge,” says Incontri. “Quality and contemporary Italian style are Tod’s values that are already part of my personal vision of the modern man. My aim is to develop them, always keeping in mind the importance of the roots of a brand with such a rich history and craftsmanship.”
Incontri has been showing his namesake men’s and women’s labels since Spring 2013, but will no doubt benefit from the global exposure of Tod’s. Incontri’s first collection for the house will be shown in Milan this Sunday, June 22.
mffashion.comMilan Vukmirovic is a creative director for menswear by Port 1961. Vukmirovic has worked for brands including Chevignon, Trussardi and Jil Sander and his first collection will bow for fall/winter 2015. For the first time, Fiona Cibani is passing the baton to a designer who will be fully in charge of Men’s collection creativity. Salem Cibani, Ports 1961 ceo, says: ”Fiona and I are thrilled to have Milan on board, as his menswear perspective perfectly matches the brand’s urban contemporary style”.
wwdNina Ricci said Peter Copping is stepping down as its creative director after a five-year stint.
The spring 2015 collection paraded here on Sept. 25 was his last.
This confirms a WWD report on Sept. 12 that the English designer was close to exiting the Paris-based fashion house to take on a lead design role at Oscar de la Renta.
De la Renta, 82, has yet to comment on his intentions. He has been looking for a design collaborator and possible successor for some time — most visibly in 2013, when he hired John Galliano for a three-week designer-in-residence role.
Ralph Toledano, president of Puig fashion division, parent of Ricci, thanked Copping for “his commitment to Nina Ricci and his contribution to the legacy of the house.
“His vision has been a major factor in the re-launch of the brand,” Toledano added.
Copping noted he was “very grateful to the Puig family for their kindness through the last five years.”
Ricci added that it would “shortly announce” its new creative director, believed to be Carven creative director Guillaume Henry, who is exiting that house after a five-year stretch of his own.
Henry is credited with catapulting Carven back onto the fashion radar, and giving it a youthful élan.
The Frenchman is to remain in his post until the end of November and Carven chief executive officer Henri Sebaoun is in talks with several potential successors, as reported.
In the decade before Copping, Ricci saw a number of designers come and go: Nathalie Gervais, Massimo Giussani, James Aguiar, Lars Nilsson and Olivier Theyskens.
fashionista.comWhen it comes to the continuous cycle of hirings and firings at fashion houses, rumors often leak and spread before a brand formally announces a switch. Case in point: After word broke out this weekend that Carven designer Guillaume Henry was likely next in line to take over for Peter Copping at Nina Ricci, a Carven rep has now confirmed that he will, in fact, be leaving the French label after November.
Reps for Nina Ricci and for its parent company, Puig, did not respond immediately to request for comment. So that one is still up in the air.
So what's to become of Carven? As CEO Henri Sebaoun told WWD, it'll be business as usual, at least from a strategy standpoint. Store openings and expansion of the company's various segments will continue on as planned. Carven is currently in talks with a number of potential replacements for Henry, who was appointed creative director in 2009.
While we wait for official news on Henry's next move to drop, here's a look at his latest (and now last) Paris Fashion Week show for the brand. With its sporty, mod vibe, it's quite different from what we typically see at Nina Ricci, so it's fair to say the designer would provide a new take on the house's style as creative director.