Designers Switching Houses & Moving to New Brands

[Flashbang]

Confirmed, Guillaume Henry for Nina Ricci. I will truly miss his impeccable menswear creation

Fashion's current game of musical chairs is almost complete with the confirmation of yet another move.

Guillaume Henry, who left his position as artistic director at Carven last week, has been confirmed as the new creative director of Nina Ricci.

He fills the shoes of Peter Copping, who announced his departure from the fashion house last week after five years in the role. Copping is expected to take on a new position with 82-year-old designer Oscar de la Renta, who is said to be looking for a collaborator and possible successor, though nothing has been confirmed thus far.

Henry, 35, was with Carven for five years, during which time he turned the former couture house into a must-have ready-to-wear label. He will start his new job on January 5, 2015, and show his first collection in the autumn/winter 2015 round of shows in February.

"We are welcoming Guillaume Henry at Nina Ricci with tremendous delight and great ambitions for the brand. In addition to being an outstanding talent, Guillaume has the characteristics of a major designer: artistic vision, intuition, intelligence, charisma and curiosity, and a remarkable ability to attract and gather the best," said Ralph Toledano, president of the fashion division at Puig, owners of Nina Ricci.

telegraph.co.uk

 

[Flashbang]

Philosophy
Out: Natalie Ratabesi
In: Lorenzo Serafini

Alberta Ferretti has hired a new creative director for Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti, her lower-priced, little sister collection. Lorenzo Serafini, 41, is a graduate of the fashion design program at Nuova Accademia di Belle Arti, Milano, and a design room veteran, with five years of experience at Dolce & Gabbana, where he was lead designer of womenswear, and a decade at Roberto Cavalli before that. He replaces Natalie Ratabesi, who stepped down in June after three runway seasons at Philosophy. Serafini’s first order of business will be bringing the collection back to Milan for a February 2015 runway debut; for several years, the line was shown in New York. He called in from his second day on the job to discuss his surprisingly long-term plans for the brand. He’s got a lifetime plan.

You’ve been in-house at Dolce & Gabbana and Roberto Cavalli for a long time. Did you jump at the chance to take on a creative director role?
After so many years working for other designers, I thought it was the right time to go out on my own, to take this chance that Mrs. Ferretti offered me. And I also feel lucky enough to be in a period when young designers are getting more recognition than any other time in Milan. In the past, New York and London had been much more supportive to young designers, guys like Alexander Wang, and even before him, Proenza. They had a chance to come out. In London, Christopher Kane. It never really happened in Milan. But with Fausto Puglisi and Jeremy Scott at Moschino, it’s a good time now for Milan.

What are your goals for Philosophy?
I think showing in New York has been an important statement for the positioning of the Philosophy line. But I’m an Italian, and the brand is Italian, and we produce in Italy, and I think that what’s happening in Milan now, it’s very exciting. My desire is to be part of it, part of the new blood. My first collection will be in Milan.

Why do you think Mrs. Ferretti picked you?
After we spoke, she understood that we could share the same vision. I’ve always liked what she did with her own line and with Philosophy. It’s always represented femininity, lightness, and sophistication, and these are values that I’m really into. She understood that I really like the vision she has.

It’s day two—what’s on the agenda?
The first thing is defining my woman. At the moment, she’s a mix of Brooke Shields in Endless Love by Franco Zeffirelli and Isabella Rossellini in Wild at Heart by David Lynch. These are the two characters I built my mood board with images of. Actually, I’m a shy and romantic guy, but as a designer I’ve been educated in fashion houses where the power of sex appeal has always been pivotal, and in the end I embraced that education. Now I really enjoy both sides. These two women represent what I have in my mind, not just for the next collection, but for the identity of the brand. Brooke is innocent and romantic, Isabella represents the more shameless side of sex appeal. For sure these two things are going to be the two most important aspects of my work.

Beyond sex appeal, what else did you pick up from your years working with Dolce & Gabbana and Mr. Cavalli?
Roberto taught me that nothing is impossible—he really taught me this—while Stefano and Domenico taught me that reality can be better than dreams, that fashion actually can be a family affair in which values like passion, tradition, and loyalty are important elements of success. The most important thing I keep in my heart from when I talked to them about leaving was to remember to trust myself always and never be afraid. I have to say, if I’m here now, it’s really thanks to the two of them. They really supported me.

It sounds like you had very positive experiences.
Definitely. At Cavalli I was there for 10 years, and with Stefano and Domenico, I can say I really found a family. I hope to be able to build my own family with this experience.

You replace Natalie Ratabesi, who wasn’t at Philosophy very long. What will you do differently?
I have to say, I’ve always spent a long period of time in the houses I’ve worked for. Now that I have the chance to build my own brand, I would love to think that it is forever. I know that can sound a bit naive, but I really feel the need to have this kind of idealism. Every experience, I’ve never thought it was a passage for some other experience. Thankfully, life can give you other opportunities that you are free to take, and I decided to take them. But I always approach every situation with the same thing, that it might be my forever thing.

How did you land in fashion in the first place?
I’ve always been obsessed with magazines. Magazines and vintage books are my obsessions. They were my first experience with fashion. I started at Accademia di Belle Arti in Milan after high school. I won a small contest in Italy and won an internship at Anna Molinari and Blumarine. That was my very first job. I started as an intern and it lasted five years.

Who are your designer idols?
Gianni Versace has always been very important to me. I’ve been collecting his catalogs since the beginning. But there isn’t just one designer. Plus, I have to say I’ve been very lucky to work with designers I’ve admired.

Often when I’m in Milan, I feel like everyone’s on the same bandwagon. Everyone was doing the ’70s this season. Not so much Dolce, though—there’s a strong point of view there.
I really don’t know how at the end of the season so many brands end up with the same thing, with the ’70s trend, for example. It’s something magic, because nobody talks to each other. It has to be something in the air. When it happens it’s fantastic in a way. Don’t you think so?

What is amazing at Dolce is that they always want to remain attached to their vision. They are talking about style, they are not talking about fashion anymore. They are more concentrated on their own style. Not so many fashion houses have such a precise DNA, and once you have it, you better work for it, not to let it loose, to let it go.

A lot of the other labels at Philosophy’s price point are very trend-driven, though. Is that something you have to consider?
I don’t think I will follow trends. I will try to build a vision and to work on that vision. I hope I’ll be able to invent a Philosophy style. That would be to me the most amazing thing I could reach. Of course, we will work on price point. That’s an important part of the project. It doesn’t make things easy. I’ve always been at big houses, where the budget is there is no budget, where you can do whatever you want in terms of embroidery, in terms of choosing the best materials. This is a new challenge to me. I hope I will be able to do the best with a choice that’s not that wide open.

I started yesterday. We are a month and a half late on the schedule, so we have to gain the time we lost. It’s such a great challenge for me. I’m really appreciating this chance to try. It’s so different to work for some other vision than to work on your own. Really. You feel the responsibility, much more the pressure. Even if I just started, the perspective is really different.

style.com

 

[Flashbang]

Back on June..

Vince
In: Natalie Ratabesi

NATALIE RATABESI, whose departure from Alberta Ferretti's second line Philosophy was announced earlier this week, has taken the helm of contemporary sportswear label Vince. The move will see the Central Saint Martins alumnus not only transition from ready-to-wear to sports, but also to a new country - moving from Milan to LA with her husband and one-year-old daughter.

"I left home at 17," she explained. "I lived four years in London, almost four in Paris, I moved to New York City in January 2004 until September 2012, and in that time I spent a year in Rome, and from September 2012 until now in Milan. Right now I feel there's a new energy in LA. A lot of my friends are moving there, a lot of stylists that I know."

Ratabesi - who previously worked at Dior, Oscar de la Renta, Gucci and Ralph Lauren - will oversee womenswear, working under Karin Gregersen, Vince's president and chief creative officer, while Nicole Wiesmann will continue to helm menswear.

"Natalie has a very modern sensibility, which is very close to the Vince DNA and core value," Gregersen told WWD. "She really has a very sophisticated design sensibility. As we increase and elevate our fashion point of view, she's such a critical part of this process for us. She creates silhouettes that are modern, understated and cool, and understands our neutral, rich colour palette... I think she'll really leverage our brand DNA."

vogue.co.uk

 

[fierceboi]

can't possibly imagine what Guillaume Henry is going to bring to Nina Ricci. the thought scares me!

 

[Moofins]

Peter Copping Named Creative Director of Oscar de la Renta

At 82 years of age, designer Oscar de la Renta has named a successor. Peter Copping, formerly of Nina Ricci, will take over as the creative director of the fashion house. As de la Renta said in an issued statement, "Our industry has not always done the best job when it comes to changes in design leadership. My hope is that, in leading this selection and actively participating in the transition, I can ensure the right design future for our company and brand."

According to the Times, Copping will be responsible for all of ODLR's offerings, including its much-beloved bridal line. He starts November 3rd, and his first de la Renta collection will show at New York Fashion Week in February.

racked.com

 

[IndigoHomme]

Oscar de la Renta confirmed on Monday (13:10) that Peter Copping is its new creative director. In the newly created position, Copping, Nina Ricci who left earlier this month, will work directly with de la Renta and the CEO of the brand, Alex Bolen.

"I am very glad Peter has agreed to join us," said de la Renta. "He is a great talent and, beyond our common sensitivity in design, both have a deep curiosity about the world, from music to art, architecture and gardens. Our industry did not always work the best when it comes to changes in leading design. My hope is that this selection leading and actively participating in the transition, I can guarantee the correct design of the future in our company and brand. "
Speculations on the possible retirement of Oscar de la Renta, 82, intensified in 2013, when he received John Galliano for three weeks of work in his studio. On occasion, however, the company downplayed the matter "succession", with de la Renta stating that he hoped "to continue working for a long time", and CEO Alexander Bolen citing the work of the creative team of designer.


Peter Copping takes over as creative director of Oscar de la Renta on November 3, and presents his first collection side of the designer in February in Winter 2015/16 international season. In the same season, Guillaume Henry, who assumed the post vacated by Copping at Nina Ricci, Carven makes his post-debut.

The Original post in portuguese → http://bit.ly/1p73J9k

vía ffw.com.br/

 

[softgrey]

22 Sep 2014/Editorial Staff Pambianco

Ter et Bantine has tapped German designer Kostas Murkudis as its new creative director. He will also oversee the young line Hache.

i never knew the two lines were connected but this explains quite a lot...


i've always liked both labels...
i hope they will get even better now...

 

[Pricciao]

Blue Farrier Leaves as Creative Director of Issa

(WWD) BLUE’S MOVE: Blue Farrier, creative director of the London-based brand Issa, has left the company and she will not be replaced.

 

[HeatherAnne]

I completely forgot Chris Benz existed.

Chris Benz Appointed to Top Spot at Bill Blass

Fans of classic American sportswear, rejoice: Not only is Bill Blass relaunching for spring 2016, but today Women's Wear Daily reports that designer Chris Benz has been appointed as creative director, effective immediately. Benz has been taking a break from the self-titled line he founded in 2007. The designer told WWD that he plans to focus on "what feels modern today ... taking advantage of social media and new platforms for personality connections with the customer." Said Blass president and CEO Stuart Goldblatt, "The whole idea was to bring in an American designer who understands the woman today and who is highly social, just as Mr. Blass was." Well, the chameleon-tressed Benz is certainly no shrinking violet.

wwd

 

[krncandi]

Krizia

Out: Mariuccia Mandelli
In: Zhu Chongyun

 

[Flashbang]

Ralph Rucci Leaves His Namesake Label

Another day, another round of designer musical chairs — but this one is a bit of a shock.

Designer Ralph Rucci is leaving his namesake label, according to a report by WWD. A replacement has not yet been named; whoever takes over will start with the resort 2016 collection, with pre-fall and fall 2015 collections being designed by an in-house team.

Widely considered one of America's only couturiers, Rucci has been designing since 1981, and launched his high-end line Chado Ralph Rucci in 1994, which he renamed Ralph Rucci in 2013. The reasons for his departure are currently unknown.

We have reached out to Ralph Rucci and will update with any further information.

fashionista.com

 

[StoneSkipper]

^ No way! That's so sad

 

[rebel]

Matthieu Blazy Said Heading to Céline

What does Céline have in common with Maison Martin Margiela? A strict policy about not communicating about its collaborators, including one of its latest recruits, from the house that Martin built.

According to market sources, Matthieu Blazy, the designer who had been responsible for Margiela’s couture line, dubbed Artisanal, has joined the studio of Céline creative director Phoebe Philo. It is understood Philo has also engaged one of her former Chloe associates, Yvan Mispelaere, who more recently had worked as a design director at Roberto Cavalli, Gucci and Diane von Furstenberg.

...
wwd

 

[HeatherAnne]

Glad to see Blazy land somewhere good!

 

[fashion doctor]

...
wwd

Can someone please explain what is meant by "A strict policy about not communicating about its collaborators"? What does "collaborators" mean, here?

 

[Flashbang]

Mulberry Appoints Johnny Coca

MULBERRY has appointed former Céline accessories design director Johnny Coca as its new creative director. He will be responsible for all of Mulberry's collections, including ready-to-wear, reporting to Godfrey Davis, chairman and CEO.

"I very much look forward to joining Mulberry as its new creative director and to leading a new design direction at one of the very best British Brands," the designer said today.

"We are delighted that Johnny is joining us," Godfrey Davis added. "He has a wealth of international luxury and fashion experience that will help us bring new energy and innovation to Mulberry."

Coca was just one of the talents linked with the job in recent months, and comes to the role more than a year after previous helmer Emma Hill's departure.

vogue.co.uk

 

[fashion doctor]

^There was an interesting piece from Vanessa Friedman about it last Friday: http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/201...ector-johnny-coca-reverse-mulberrys-fortunes/

These passages, in particular, were worth considering, I think:
"QUOTE:

(...) 3. There is something laudable about Mulberry’s having found something of a behind-the-scenes talent, as opposed to a star, thus enlarging fashion’s marquee name talent pool. It is encouraging to think more fashion brands would do the same.

But here is what I am still wondering:

1. The flip side of appointing one of the deputies to a big name creative director is that his own ability to articulate a vision is unproven. Mr. Coca has been working under the overall creative direction of Phoebe Philo, and it is unclear how much of Céline’s accessories were driven by her vision. That is not to say he did not do most of it on his own, just that it is an unknown. Plus, he has not done ready-to-wear. This is not atypical in fashion — neither had Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino, who also came from the accessory world — but it will be interesting to see how much emphasis Mulberry places on clothes versus bags. (...)"

 

[IndigoHomme]

Z Zegna: Paul Surridge on the way out

After three years as the artistic director of Z Zegna, Paul Surridge is getting ready to leave his position. The second Ermenegildo Zegna line, a luxury Italian menswear label, will as of next season be in the hands of Francesco Muzi, head designer of Jil Sander menswear, who will work alongside Murray Scallon.

The British designer occupied the exact same function when he left Jil Sander three years ago to work on the young Z Zegna after the departure of Alessandro Sartori.

Previously he worked at Burberry as senior designer of menswear, and at Calvin Klein as head designer. Since last season Paul Surridge had been working in tandem with Irish designer Murray Scallon, who was at Zegna Sport before that, a line that was merged with Z Zegna. According to our information, the departing designer wants to take a sabbatical.

Before Jil Sander, Francesco Muzi, a specialist in high end men's clothing, notably worked for Valentino, Miu Miu and Prada.

source: Fashionmag

 

[Flashbang]

Ugh I knew something smells fishy with the merge. A truly shame because his show is one of the highlight for me. Don't go out too long, Paul!

 

[HeatherAnne]

I don't think Zegna was a good fit for him anymore, but like Flashbang I'm a fan and can't wait to see what happens to him next.