Diesel F/W 2022.23 Milan

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Koibito]

Interesting combination between y2k era and post-apocalyptic vibe. I also like his way of treating materials here.

 

[bc collector]

No matter how talented Mertens is (and he is, a lot), Diesel carries with it that unmistakably '90s tacky touch without which the brand would not be the same. It is its raison d'être.
Who is buying these clothes? The fashion pack? I doubt it - if anything, they buy into Mertens's namesake label.
Is the average Diesel customer (supposing there is such a thing) able to appreciate Mertens's work?
I doubt that too.
It just feels like another empty exercise for the sake of itself, while Diesel the brand keeps making money from the same hideous jeans and tees they've been churning out forever.

 

[THD96]

I do like a few looks, and it's better than his first collection. But he needs a new stylist, cause some of the styling and layering choices are overkill.

But what's the point of this Y/project lite approach? It's too pretentious for the Diesel, I'm sure 80% of these looks will never made into production.

They should go for the Lacoste route, elevated essentials that make sense in everyday life.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Oh dear. This makes me miss Andreas Melbostad's collections for Diesel Black Gold all the more...

 

[Deleted member 119799]

it's an unappealing mess but i'm all for wasting renzo rosso's money

 

[Cocteau Stone]

There are some interesting pieces and Marten's has a knack for showcasing interesting textures that's for sure. There's a tangibility to the fabrics that I enjoy, as if I know exactly how it would feel without touching it.

That being said, I don't think anyone has been able to do Y2K/Early 2000s well because the collections end up looking like a caricature of itself. What made that era work was the commanding gusto of the models and this sour coloured and sexually brazen take on fashion. It felt, and still looks, so polarising when looking back because that take on fashion hadn't been explored so intensely yet so seeing it revived feels passé, despite a heap of the collections not being released in stores yet. Y2K was of its time, in its own concentrated bubble and seeing designers trying to do it makes the collections look like Halloween costumes. It doesn't feel genuine at all because the references are just too obvious.

 

[entten]

No matter how talented Mertens is (and he is, a lot), Diesel carries with it that unmistakably '90s tacky touch without which the brand would not be the same. It is its raison d'être.
Who is buying these clothes? The fashion pack? I doubt it - if anything, they buy into Mertens's namesake label.
Is the average Diesel customer (supposing there is such a thing) able to appreciate Mertens's work?
I doubt that too.
It just feels like another empty exercise for the sake of itself, while Diesel the brand keeps making money from the same hideous jeans and tees they've been churning out forever.

I feel exactly the same as you. His work is good.
But I dont care who's the creative director, I would never buy DIESEL. Its the name, its the branding, its what I connect with it..Its just such an unattractive brand to buy for me......with all that money machinery behind the Diesel brand, if they want to be a cool high fashion brand, they should just quietly change their name and never talk about Diesel again.

 

[YohjiAddict]

I liked it quite a bit more than I expected it’s trashy, bubbly and fun but it doesn’t give itself away at first viewing…like Blumarine.

I agree that because of the label's history, it’s almost impossible to see Diesel as desirable, let alone aspirational, but it’s good to see a talented desire get some extra resources to execute his vision.

 

[vogue28]

Thought this was pretty much on the money in terms of the industry's current obsession with Y2K! I love those oversized belts as mini skirts and the use of the Diesel logo, which instantly took me back to when Diesel was one of the hottest bands in our sleepy town way back when.

 

[Serend1pity]

Love this - diesel have a real chance to tap into y2k and a younger audience less familiar with their tacky heyday - think this will do well

 

[disco54]

This and Russo's Marni a case study on how to implode a brand within a year.