Could I be permitted a few words on the ironic connections between Dior Homme and Lanvin ?
Lanvin did indeed have superb runway shows for PAP , in the days when the French Menswear houses were not ENTIRELY trained upon the 19 years old whippet boys who drink life to the dregs while dressed in flambuoyant , yet supposedly ' tasteful ' clothing items , like tailed jackets which show that you are being manipulated by a puppet master pulling your strings , or in Hedi and Pete's case , one's trouser braces !!!
( PLEASE , PLEASE , PLEASE don't let me have to look at Dame Karla sporting this look at some obscure party for the ladies couture set , pics printed in all those exclusive mags like OK and HELLO . I've just been faced in hospital with one such OK edition , with Karl and his ' Tailored ' look , so much lauded here , and believe me it's horrendous , with at least 3 spare tyres wonderfully emphasised on the embompoint by a myriad of silver belts with dangling charms , Lordy , Lordy !!! ) .
Anyways , Lanvin was a biggie until it got into financial difficulties and was bought out by a Taiwanese family , who revived it by appointing ALBER ELBAZ as women's designer , and who just happened to have been the colleague of a certain HEDI SLIMANE at Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche , with dual responsability for reviving
that illustrious house that had rather run to seed .
This they did BRILLIANTLY , sufficient so for me to pay a weekly visit to one of the few stockists of YSL RIVE GAUCHE HOMME left in the UK , simply to gaze upon the wonderful Hedi creations that were taking the house back to its glory days ' with perfectly proportioned leather blousons , the absolute ultimate in cabin-jackets , and sweaters adorned with black lacquer dinglum-danglums , fit for a king , no less than a young sugar-daddied queen !!!
Sufficient for me to say that I did not gaze upon the Alber creations with QUITE so much ardour as I am not a wearer of women's clothes , not even in the privacy of my own home , although I do feel that I can recognise fine design .
Unfortunately my dream was to be shattered as along came a big bad and tanned brazilian-waxed dragon by the name of TOM FORD who fancied himself as a much more brilliant ' design director ' than the two major talents , ( May his black soul rot in hell or Texas , I don't mind where !!! ) ,
' shafted ' the two , nearly ruining their careers for his own vanity , and proceeded to make the great YSL into an Italian bordello .
Alber , fortunately was rescued first by Miuccia Mandelli of KRIZIA , and then by the charming Taiwanese lady with a cute little dog .
Hedi was rescued , or to use the right terminology , ' grabbed ' by LVMH and used to launch the new avant garde DIOR men's label , and the rest is history , so to speak , although not without a standoff in the RODIN Museum gardens against Ford , with Hedi winning hands-down against the ' so talented he has to get Stafano Pilati to design his YSL men's collections on the qt .... ) Ford .
If I might be permitted yet another irony , both Lanvin and Christian Dior Monsieur were designed by two illustrious designers who did turn and turn about at these respective houses , their names being Dominique Morlotti and Patrick Lavoix , whose collections for each house were always both interesting and inspired , but in a classic mode .
The collection designed by Martin Krutzki , late of GUCCI menswear , of a few of seasons ago was brilliant in the Veronique Nichanian for HERMES Menswear tradition , but obviously did not meet with buyers approval , unfortunately , and the collection is now designed by a team .
However there looks to be a rebirth as two recent threads on TFS have shown :-
http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28811&highlight=lanvin+homme
http://www.thefashionspot.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25484&highlight=lanvin+homme
And so it would seem that Lanvin Homme are starting a fashion forward men's line , licensing it out to a Japanese company , and hoping to do a Dior Homme , Ungaro Homme ( under the aegis of Jose Levy ) , a Dormeul Homme , and the rebirth of Paris PAP goes on . I only hope that they succeed better than S.T.Dupont Homme that unfortunately seems to be struggling .
I liked their previous launch of Dupont under ROELLI-TESTU , but it was very expensive and perhaps a rarified taste for the boys of the Rue St.Denis , who prefer to wear porkie-pie hats and lick the heroin spoon dry for their midnight appearancies for Hedi .
So there are horror stories where the big bad dragon is finally thwarted and is banished to the outer confines of such forward looking menswear companies as Zegna Sport and Ermenagildo Zegna , and there are sweet love stories where Hedi steals the heroin-chic boyfriend of one of the world's top and longest surviving models ( a personal friend of our own SEAN , no less ) , and live forever happily in a babyshambles of his own making .
Who's the Daddy ? Go on , tell me who's the daddy ?
It's over to you .
BTW , the Dior Homme men's short leather cape , worn by Kate Moss , is a brilliant piece of minimalistic design and has restored my faith in Hedi's genius .