Dior Men F/W 2022.23 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Yasouss]

It's beautiful and well tailored but its more or less the same from Kim. He really needs the collaborations to bring an oomph to his collections.

 

[Olaffo]

Look at these pants: they are all look the same (slouchy af). Waist up: yes someone put some effort to make it look interesting or desirable. There are few pieces I'd buy but it is still underwhelming, there is no climax here.

Btw. I like that Kim has reused Chanel's fall 2018 HC set, we should really push for sustainability in fashion!

 

[eugenius]

^The same? Yeah, I'd agree.

It's quite formulaic, no? "Let's switch out the slacks for sweatpants. Throw in some archival embroideries here and there. Throw in a sweater & sweatshirt. Wear it over the button-up. Add some accessories. Mix it up and bake it at 350 'til it's gold and bubbly", and voila...the new Kim collection.

..which is not to say I hate this. As usual for his f/w collections, the coats are the stars of the show, and the styling is top-notch. But overall, it's typical Dior Mens in the 2020s. Nothing more to see here.

The best model here is the old guy at the end. Model ID?

 

[Phuel]

^^^ The coats are solid. Nothing remotely covetable and inspiring. And if some generous, beautiful stranger treated me to a shopping spree for this offering, I could easily pick up a handful of coats and jackets. Nothing I’d pay for, of course… This is as nondescript high-end department-store fodder as Maria-Grazia’s.

Left to his own device, he’s been consistent with this brand of accessible, commercial— and wearable staple for adult men since he was at Vuitton. And frankly, as nondescript as the offerings are, I’d welcome this brand of reserved pragmatism, rather than see adults dressed like infants and clowns when he’s so desperately seeking to be down with hypebeasts, just to snatch some tiktok clout and Insta likes.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

The offering is way much better than the past season. It felt very close to his beginning at Dior.

At least, it is desirable, felt less forcé and I may be bias because this is very much my taste.

I like the subtle sensuality with the back being visible.

 

[Salvatore]

I love this so much. I’d walk into the boutique and willingly drop thousands. I say that it’s very Dries Van Noten with a very good budget and resources and that’s why I love it. I am a huge fan of Dries, but his past few collections have not hit me like they used to because of the lack of relaxed opulence he used to do so well. It’s definitely here, though, and I want to wear it.

 

[TianCouture]

There are some really funny John-isms in this right down to the soundtrack that kind of work and kind of don't work.

 

[brandon J pierre]

There are some really funny John-isms in this right down to the soundtrack that kind of work and kind of don't work.

yes a little john in the fabrics

 

[vogue28]

Must admit that as much as I have become obsessed with Kim Jones at Fendi, I haven't truly acknowledged or delved into his work at Dior Men. Having said that, I did enjoy scrolling through this collection on Vogue Runway and loved the finer details - like the cannage quilting.

Also thoroughly enjoyed these side-by-side comparisons Kim Jones put up on his Instagram:

 

[jeanclaude]

I only like this draped jacket, the rest is boutique material:

 

[Frederic01]

DIOR

 

[reese06]

I enjoyed it but nothing conjured an emotional response.

 

[Frederic01]

This is a step in the right direction for Dior Men, moving away from collabs and hypebeasts, so I applaud him for that gesture. The way that he reinterpreted the bar jacket for men was also quite interesting and very timely considering men were buying Maria Grazia's bar jackets in larger sizes. Colour palette was also iconic Dior, very serene and luxurious.

Somehow though this just feels slightly underwhelming. For a start the styling of this is atrocious; those felt slip-on shoes are particularly vile and those boxer-briefs with the Christian Dior logo at the waistband are so trashy. The berets, which were supposedly referencing 1950's Dior, look gimmicky and cheap instead of refined and elegant. The hats in general at Dior Men always look gimmicky, I don't know they insist on them? And the casting, which could have really elevated the concept, is completely wrong. Those boys with the ombré hair look like Hedi Slimane Celine models and the rest of the cast is just boring.

On a more positive note though it's clear to me that this is will be commercial hit with the womenswear clientele, for sure. All those embroidered pieces, the grey coats, the draped jackets, etc. On a woman these pieces could look extraordinary with the right styling. Add to that that this collection is going to arrive in boutiques more or less at the same time as Maria Grazia's disastrous Pre-Fall collection, and it's obvious which collection will resonate more with a client looking for an iconic Dior aesthetic and silhouette.

 

[WAVES]

it’s tasteful.
best pieces are a couple of blazers, couple of coats and the draped ones.
nothing over the moon though.

 

[Frederic01]

Did Kim Jones say only last month he wasn't going to be doing collabs anymore? The shoes for this collection are designed in collaboration with Birkenstock. So confused. They literally just had a Lunar Capsule collection collab with Kenny Scharf too?

“There’s no collaborations for a while, but that was my choice,” he said. “At Dior, we did three collaborations this year, and then the other 10 collections we’ve done aren’t with collaborators, so you know, it’s only a small part of my work, but people don’t see that.”

Birkenstock

 

[YohjiAddict]

A lot of regular clothes styled to hell and back BUT the garments where he explicitly transfers the Dior vocabulary into menswear are the best he has shown in months! Nothing groundbreaking, but it’s a ray of light after so much dispassionate marketing disguised as creation.

His new year’s resolution will hopefully be to cut down on the collabs and relearn how to properly design…

 

[GivenchyHomme]

The styling is a little bit dorky and the shoes are hideous, but it’s a slight improvement. I do think he could have been more extreme with the archival references. His version of the male bar looks like a deflated balloon and the cocoon collar looks like it’s suffocating the model. His interpretation of the archives looks amateur at best. One other complaint I have is the “color” palette. He continues to play it safe with cold neutrals. Color is not necessarily something someone can learn. You either have it or you don’t. With that being said, the Kim Jones look is starting to get long in the tooth at Dior and Fendi. It’s lifeless, formulaic, and predictable. If someone has the money for Fendi and Dior then they probably have the luxury to be more adventurous with fashion. I believe you could go elsewhere and get more bang for your buck.

 

[SpeedRacer666]

The best model here is the old guy at the end. Model ID?

Stephen Jones