I think we are in the middle of a storm, a storm with a few elements adding to it-- the early 2000's was a big era for fashion, you had a good economic environment, a good publishing environment
people were buying magazines, and brand buying ads, actresses, influencers, social media monopolies had not yet taken this capital >> the $ was trickling down to creatives instead of hollywood agencies and mark zuckerberg and google >> fashion was less expensive maybe and it wasn't only oligrachs, wealthy upper class in gulf arab states and china that brands like gucci etc. were relying on -- there was a stronger middle class in america + europe, buying a chanel bag, gucci dresses etc.
also us millennials had the perfect storm as young people to become enthralled in this whole word, tom ford, john galliano, models like gemma ward daria werbowy jessica stam etc. photographers like steven meisel and mario testino were at their heights and were given platforms and capital to make such amazing things on a large scale
the economy tanked, brands started focusing elsewhere (magazines, usa + europe shifted to social media + ultra wealthy/china/gulf states) -- magazines tanked completely, the $ now for young creatives is in working around celebrities/brand deals, theres still plenty of magazines but they are doing things on a different scale, and photogs stylists etc have such small platforms and little capital to make things i feel like its sucking the life out of everything > somewhere around the phoebe philo frenzy before she retired really, the tastemakers shifted to being pretentious and everything became about anti fashion mark borthwick and 90s references and minimalism and art world references (collier schorr, cass bird, bibi borthwick, demna, lotta, brianna capozzi, the row) and people still aren't sick of that somehow even though it has trickled down into every crevice, small beauty brands in ulta to aritzia to tory burch, the lowest taste of influencers wearing the row so many have adapted this aesthetic, to me, gucci failing, and now virginie leaving and so many designers unattached to houses i think maybe it's a reckoning? i don't know where it goes from here, hedi would be the safest choice, the brand would chug along, to be honest i didn't mind what virginie did, it wasn't as big and fabulous as what karl did but nothing ever could be, it was just kind of shocking how bad some of her clothes fit the models, she really made some gorgeous girls look like they had short legs etc. i never looked at runway photos and thought like that until virginie's chanel.. im not surprised people would say jeremy scott because a lot of what we remember from karl's tenure was the campy over the top showmanship, big big big, which jerermy was successful i guess at doing with moschino..
i just hope sometime soon the whole industry shifts, and not into corporate shareholder bland safeness..