Discussion: Who Should Be The Creative Director of Chanel?

LadyJunon

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Now that Virginie Viard at Chanel is finally gone, let's discuss who should replace her. The suggestions I've been seeing on Viard's thread are:
- Hedi Slimane
- Marc Jacobs
- Pheobe Philo
- Pierpaolo Piccioli
- Sarah Burton
- Jeremy Scott
- Natacha Ramsay-Levi
- Christelle Kocher
- Alexandre Vauthier
I personally have no ideas, but the rest of the forum should have some good ideas.
 
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the disrespect of discussing this in her own thread. out of all those mentioned i would prefer jeremy scott and burton. To add to that if they want a veteran tisci or pilati will do amazing.

If they are going for younger ones i would like bruno sialleli, maximillian davis, or filippo grazioli from missoni. The way he has reinvented the missoni print in many ways could be something he can apply to chanel's tweed.

Only french i could think of is vauthier but he is a bit limited like hedi.
 
It’s amusing that actually Hedi Slimane is the stable, conservative choice. There will be violent reactions but the man does basic clothes and sells. Not everyone on that list can say that.

I’m fine with Jeremy, and some of the people like PPP, but Chanel actually sells. It’s not just for dramatic showing of clothes or some social media points. Philo is fine, but London and she has her brand. Marc? Would’ve been nice but his time has passed.
 
So many designers outta work :
Phoebe Philo (her own label is supposedly not meeting the expectations in sales at all)
Pilati
PPP
Tisci (has couture experience too)
Hedi (?!?!? Ouch please no)
Jeremy Scott (that cant be a serious rumor!!???)
And many more…
Virginie’s clothes stopped selling.. they made bigger profit with bags only. Heard that the bosses were unhappy with her performance and they hated the campiagns by Inez and Vinoudh that were such expensive productions for cheap and old fashioned Elle magazine level of visuals. She always had a 5 yr contract that just expired now. So, thats all so far what i heard from the inside of CC here in Paris.
 
Now that the hoe at Chanel is finally gone, let's discuss who should replace her. The suggestions I've been seeing on Viard's thread are:
- Hedi Slimane
- Marc Jacobs
- Pheobe Philo
- Pierpaolo Piccioli
- Sarah Burton
- Jeremy Scott
- Natacha Ramsay-Levi
- Christelle Kocher
- Alexandre Vauthier
I personally have no ideas, but the rest of the forum should have some good ideas.
Thank goodness for that!! Been waiting for this day since Day 1 of her tenure lol
 
I love Phoebe but I don’t know, I think I don’t want her at Chanel. I think she did wonders at Céline, but she’s a little bit too cold for Chanel.

I think Marc is already too old.

PPP had terrible sales at Valentino, it’s impossible.

Sarah Burton was the Virginie Viard chez McQueen, impossible too.

Jeremy Scott could never be considered for a house like Chanel in 2024.

Natacha? :lol: whoever said that was serious? She could not even handle Chloé, puhlease girls.

The only possible candidates are Hedi and Phoebe, but I have no doubts it’s going to be Hedi.
 
I think we are in the middle of a storm, a storm with a few elements adding to it-- the early 2000's was a big era for fashion, you had a good economic environment, a good publishing environment

people were buying magazines, and brand buying ads, actresses, influencers, social media monopolies had not yet taken this capital >> the $ was trickling down to creatives instead of hollywood agencies and mark zuckerberg and google >> fashion was less expensive maybe and it wasn't only oligrachs, wealthy upper class in gulf arab states and china that brands like gucci etc. were relying on -- there was a stronger middle class in america + europe, buying a chanel bag, gucci dresses etc.

also us millennials had the perfect storm as young people to become enthralled in this whole word, tom ford, john galliano, models like gemma ward daria werbowy jessica stam etc. photographers like steven meisel and mario testino were at their heights and were given platforms and capital to make such amazing things on a large scale

the economy tanked, brands started focusing elsewhere (magazines, usa + europe shifted to social media + ultra wealthy/china/gulf states) -- magazines tanked completely, the $ now for young creatives is in working around celebrities/brand deals, theres still plenty of magazines but they are doing things on a different scale, and photogs stylists etc have such small platforms and little capital to make things i feel like its sucking the life out of everything > somewhere around the phoebe philo frenzy before she retired really, the tastemakers shifted to being pretentious and everything became about anti fashion mark borthwick and 90s references and minimalism and art world references (collier schorr, cass bird, bibi borthwick, demna, lotta, brianna capozzi, the row) and people still aren't sick of that somehow even though it has trickled down into every crevice, small beauty brands in ulta to aritzia to tory burch, the lowest taste of influencers wearing the row so many have adapted this aesthetic, to me, gucci failing, and now virginie leaving and so many designers unattached to houses i think maybe it's a reckoning? i don't know where it goes from here, hedi would be the safest choice, the brand would chug along, to be honest i didn't mind what virginie did, it wasn't as big and fabulous as what karl did but nothing ever could be, it was just kind of shocking how bad some of her clothes fit the models, she really made some gorgeous girls look like they had short legs etc. i never looked at runway photos and thought like that until virginie's chanel.. im not surprised people would say jeremy scott because a lot of what we remember from karl's tenure was the campy over the top showmanship, big big big, which jerermy was successful i guess at doing with moschino..

i just hope sometime soon the whole industry shifts, and not into corporate shareholder bland safeness..
 
If they are going for younger ones i would like bruno sialleli, maximillian davis, or filippo grazioli from missoni. The way he has reinvented the missoni print in many ways could be something he can apply to chanel's tweed.

With all due respect, but you don't possibly believe any of these guys would have the crops to lead a house this size with all the responsibility and expectations, succeeding Karl Lagerfeld? Especially after the fiasco Sabato de Sarno's appointment at Gucci proved? I don't think any of these designers proved themselves enough for a step 'up', even to take over Givenchy... So for Chanel it calls for a designer with proven track record and the right credentials on more than just the design of clothing and accessories.
 
out of all houses, chanel is one who can afford to find someone who has potential and give him/her the time and the support to hone their skills. Its a brand that sells itself and they can make the next super star designer. they don't need one whos already a super star and have been doing his same old tricks for every house he has been in like hedi. That works only for growing houses that needs a push to the massess but not chanel. Is he really capable of any fashion spectacle that is expected from Chanel? He has been avoiding to make shows at all to make a "buzz". Chanel doesnt need that mystery and buzz.
 
out of all houses, chanel is one who can afford to find someone who has potential and give him/her the time and the support to hone their skills. Its a brand that sells itself and they can make the next super star designer. they don't need one whos already a super star and have been doing his same old tricks for every house he has been in like hedi. That works only for growing houses that needs a push to the massess but not chanel. Is he really capable of any fashion spectacle that is expected from Chanel? He has been avoiding to make shows at all to make a "buzz". Chanel doesnt need that mystery and buzz.

Yeah, but you don't hand a brand with a turnover of that many collections a year to a designer who has no experience in directing *that* many creative teams, ateliers, etc, etc - It's one thing to be the head of a studio of 10-15 people but a whole other when you suddenly have to find yourself delegating a beehive the size of Chanel.

Olivier Theyskens realized his Rochas collections with a very small team back in those days, it was 4 (relatively small) collections a year, at a time when he got away introducing product categories one at a time. I consider him the more experienced, better and more proven designer next to all these three you mentioned before and still I would highly doubt he would be a suitable candidate for this task, even if I think he would be the one to deliver 'spectacle' at Chanel, with the most delightful couture.

The requirements at Chanel are probably higher than at Gucci and I'll say it again, the whole industry has payed attention how lacklustre Sabato de Sarno's paid back in sales. Chanel will most certainly not want to invest years into a designer they are not assured will sell.
 

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