Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda Haute Couture F/W 2024.25 Sardinia

[Kanzai]

Womenswear:

 

[FashionFanatico]

Way too opulent for my taste. The dramatic opera music. the big shiny obelisks. And all these oversized clunky chandelier earrings. They seemed to throw in the ballet flats to tone everything a bit down, but it was not working. The models looked stumpy and moved not etherealy like the sirens or godesses they achieved to be. Also very Schiapparelli coded, but in a too obvious way with all that black, white and gold.

 

[Alquimista]

Is there photos? Not watching one hour of bored looking models walking like zombies.

 

[alwaysademo]

i... like this? It appears that they are still doing fashion for beauty's sake. The set and scenery was perfect, like an old campaign coming to life. The music & duration makes it a bit tiring though. Accepting the ornate nature of their Alta Moda collections I find their restored mien these past few seasons exciting. Out of perhaps 80 looks there were maybe half a dozen really ethereal special pieces. I like the Gigli proportions on some of the looks. Many others are just their usual repertoire. There was one moment in the show straight out of Vreeland's or Henry Clarke's playbook though, truly exotic:


I was catching up on the Courrèges x JPG the other day and it harkened back to a distinct 2009-10 feeling (an early Tisci Givenchy/ RO type thing) that might seem really good in theory but didn't quite work for me anymore in real time. This one is opposite. It weirdly works because their insane baroqueness feels authentic and so stubbornly decadent which I just have to respect even if it's not up to my personal taste.
P/S: saw Olivier Lalanne and Emmanuelle Alt in the audience.

 

[Kanzai]

Menswear:

 

[Empress of Dress]

This was mesmerizing, My next husband wears the garments of Dolce in & Gabbana's Alta Sartoria ! Romantically masculine, This is a gentleman of exquisite taste.

 

[Empress of Dress]

I enjoy Alta Moda season after season.

 

[jeanclaude]

Pimps wardrobe.

 

[couturefan]

Tackier than usual.

 

[jeanclaude]

Daniel Roseberry meets a Christmas tree.

 

[brandon J pierre]

It's so funny these are two of the biggest designers in the world but they get hardly any press anymore yet here they are putting on the biggest fashion show of the year and it is beautiful and made gorgeousness. No one writes about them no one really talks about them but they have a shitload of customers that Dior Chanel Gucci would die for.

 

[brandon J pierre]

These guys are complete success stories like we've never seen even with all the extreme bad press and funny press they've navigated through it like no one else have and they did it all on their own I'm proud of them

 

[tourbillions]

its very tisci. i feel they have done the gold hardwear on black way before roseberry so i dont see it as schiaparelli.

 

[Alquimista]

It reminds of Pasolini 's Medeia with Maria Callas

 

[LadyJunon]

It's so funny these are two of the biggest designers in the world but they get hardly any press anymore yet here they are putting on the biggest fashion show of the year and it is beautiful and made gorgeousness. No one writes about them no one really talks about them but they have a shitload of customers that Dior Chanel Gucci would die for.

They went through numerous controversies throughout the late 2010s, which put them in a really bad light with the industry, mainly press and influencers. This did a lot of damage, since the brand had been trying to court a younger, hybebeast clientele during that period. What saved them is that, since the pandemic, they did a hard shift toward a version of the classical glamourous aesthetic that was their claim to fame in the 90s and 00s. Doing so probably attracted a older, more afflueut clientele that wasn't as in tune with social media controversies.

 

[Alquimista]

Beautiful. A lot of unconventional wedding suits.

 

[Lola701]

You cannot watch this without seeing somehow the influence of Daniel Roseberry…Not because D&G would copy them, because they have done this many many times, but because suddenly, there’s this air of « surrealism » that we didn’t associate with Dolce & Gabbana even if again, their fall 2009 collection was Schiaparelli inspired.

What I saw in the gold breasts details was probably more Mata Hari than Schiaparelli by Roseberry but let’s say that the success of what is happening at Schiaparelli probably inspired them in reclaiming that part of their aesthetic.

To be honest, I loved the set (probably their best ever) and I love the fact that it was about flou. The clothes themselves were quite uneventful.

For me, their best Alta Moda collections were the early collections they did like the one at La Scala and things like that.

They are treating their clientele well. Their strength has always been their clientele. Controversy or not, the people who buys Dolce & Gabbana never really stopped buying it. For me, it was easy after the controversy to stop buying it simply because it wasn’t « my brand » but I know so many women who loves their stuff.

 

[JohannesL]

To be fair, they have done some gold jewelries and hardware a couple of times since their alta moda debut and Tabitha Simmons' met looks come to mind. But comparing it with Roseberry's Schiaparelli is quite reasonable since unlike Roseberry's Schiaparelli which is to create buzz for the brand, very few people really care their alta moda. I might be the minority here who actually like their alta moda as much as Armani Prive, where both of them are very repetitive but certainly have their clients in mind.

 

[Kanzai]

A friend of mine was there, she said that Chinese customers are still coming in droves, haha.
Recently, they've been actively inviting Jeff Bezos and Laura Sanchez to their shows, kinda...lol .

 

[bc collector]

I don't know what to think of these two guys: if anything, I admire the fact that their product is solid, which explains their resilience in such a volatile market.
However, their work is not relevant and hasn't been for such a long time...and this show is no exception.
I was under the illusion that Karl Templer had managed to steer them away from their predictable, more is more aesthetic, their last RTW shows were in fact much sleeker and palatable that their usual. But I was wrong apparently.

Speaking in general, I care little that Couture still has a lot of customers: if this is what they ask for, it's an empty, meaningless exercise.