Duran Lantink F/W 2024.25 Paris

Rianne looks like a plus size model… not a good sign.
 
I like this blue top. The rest is a foam nightmare:
Captura.JPG
 
its all very heavy on conceptual tricks, it gets better when he leans into a more effortless look. I get it, he's showing in Paris, he wants to make the best of it. but no conceptual trick can save the fact that this is an unflattering and rather uninteresting collection. I also find its materiality very weak, the foam-ed up pieces are a bit silly, like make believe clothing, its like a render or AR/VR pieces. would have been more interesting to find more unique ways within the material to create these volumes. JW also does a lot of these conceptual pieces, but there's always some world around them, and other options to ground those pieces into either the heritage of the house or the overal season story.

Like many dutch designers, we can wonder, where is the product in this besides the concept.
 
I just don't see or get the point of this. The approach and ideas are really dated, and it is the kind of collection from a MA Fashion program that has no real touch with reality and lives in its own echo chamber. Something that is too "intellectual" or "artsy" for its own good.

I understand, and I am sure, it has or is trying to say something a little more profound than most with some form of criticism. Does it have to look this unflattering though? Is it not possible to have comments and conversations in and/or about fashion where the collections in question also look good on the body (or have a huge potential to)? Remove the foam, and its stuff that it is there really for no reason. With the foam in, its the same response, just more ghastly on the body.

In the wise words of great prophet Belcalis Marlenis Cephus, what was the reason?
 
If your thing is looking like a bloated terminator this should work.
 
It was interesting for a season. Not just a tired central st martins shool project. Also the stylist is mediocre so takes it away into gimmicks vs fashion
 

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