its all very heavy on conceptual tricks, it gets better when he leans into a more effortless look. I get it, he's showing in Paris, he wants to make the best of it. but no conceptual trick can save the fact that this is an unflattering and rather uninteresting collection. I also find its materiality very weak, the foam-ed up pieces are a bit silly, like make believe clothing, its like a render or AR/VR pieces. would have been more interesting to find more unique ways within the material to create these volumes. JW also does a lot of these conceptual pieces, but there's always some world around them, and other options to ground those pieces into either the heritage of the house or the overal season story.
Like many dutch designers, we can wonder, where is the product in this besides the concept.