Emanuel Ungaro S/S 11 Paris

[mikeijames]

mikeijames, I disagree that what you showed was "an explosion of feathers" - it was just one corsage on one outfit. Frankly, if you want to compare one or two isolated looks, then the "sequin bra" you posted isn't far from the "heart pasties" of Lindsay Lohan. Can I then say "heart pasties" is "Ungaro"?

I'm a bit tired of going over and over again with you as you must always "win" an argument. I have posted what I feel are signature looks of Ungaro, including one dress that is featured on his signature perfume. You posted what you feel are signature looks of Ungaro. I'll let others judge what are "signature" or not. Let's just agree to disagree, and I'd prefer to end any discussion right here.

we can agree to disagree, but everyone on this forum can feel free to click through the ungaro couture collections on style.com. they really do speak for themselves.

 

[chloehandbags]

^ Please calm down with the Brit bashing thanks.

Yes, quite.

I don't know, I've never taken a huge interest in Ungaro, TBH, as most of it wasn't really my cup of tea growing up, but I've always (i.e. ever since I first saw pics in magazines, as a child/teenager, in the '80s) vaguely thought of it as highly flirtatious*, anyway, so I don't really get what the big fuss is about, TBH?

Ungaro is/was, obviously, a perfectly competent designer, but he was also, very clearly, no prude.

Even the sexy, cross-over dress in the Diva ad had a large pair of pushed-up boobs in it, please note and bear in mind that that wasn't even from an era that celebrated the bosom, particularly!

He could have easily photographed that on one of the, often completely flat-chested, models of the day, but did he? No!

BTW, for what it's worth, I agree it looks fairly similar, but the iconic Mary Quant flower has five petals, not four.

This one does, also, look quite familiar to me, though; so, it really wouldn't surprise me if this one wasn't found in the Ungaro print archive somewhere?


* Shall we call it? Rather than the highly overused, lazy and quite frankly, judgmental 'trashy' word?

 

[chloehandbags]

Im not talking about the british but about a certain kind of london person. thanks

You said; 'trashy London ideas', which came across as though you thought everyone in/from London has trashy ideas.

 

[Mutterlein]

well, let's not revise the history of the house of ungaro: emanuel ungaro never stood as one of those parisian houses that entertained illusions of refinement or sophistication the way some posters would imply. he falls more in line with christian lacroix than christian dior as far as couturiers go. and the man did not shy away from the type of girliness and frilliness that some dislike about giles first collection. however, it must be said: peter dundas remains the perfect designer for this house. while he's moved past his ungaro obsessions during his tenure at emilio pucci, this collection lacked so much of the attitude that he brought.

with that said, i think it's a great debut. he clearly fits at the house better than giambattista valli, vincent darre, or estaban cortozar. he gets the playfulness and the capriciousness that so defined ungaro. now, let's just see if he can focus the vision and design at a level that both preserves that spirit and re-ignites the desire within women to shop at that house again. i'd rather see this type of start than what we've seen at valentino.

Better than Valli? Really? Ungaro's chosen one? The house would not be in this mess if Valli had never left. They should be trying to woo him back. Like I said, Ungaro had many facets to his work, some of it was girly, some of it was loud and you could even say tacky, and some of it was regal and extremely sophisticated. It fit the moment and Giles' collection, Ungaro or otherwise, does not.

 

[Mutterlein]

we can agree to disagree, but everyone on this forum can feel free to click through the ungaro couture collections on style.com. they really do speak for themselves.

Yes, all 5 of his 40 year career.

 

[Jesuz]

I guess we'll see a lot of Ungaro in Vogue Japan!

 

[chloehandbags]

BTW, in terms of cut and construction, I think it ought to be said that virtually every major R-T-W designer was good at cut and construction, not so very long ago.

I honestly don't remember having seen anything R-T-W, in the early '80s, in a magazine, that I would describe as being of poor cut.

Really, it's only fairly recently that one has had to start worrying about whether a designer can cut and construct properly, or not.

Back in the '70s/early '80s (and before, obviously), it more or less went without saying that, if you were going to spend a small fortune on an outfit, it would be properly designed and made.

So, really, people's only worry, back then, was whether they liked the style and the colour, or not.

 

[Mutterlein]

BTW, in terms of cut and construction, I think it ought to be said that virtually every major R-T-W designer was good at cut and construction, not so very long ago.

I honestly don't remember having seen anything R-T-W, in the early '80s, in a magazine, that I would describe as being of poor cut.

Really, it's only fairly recently that one has had to start worrying about whether a designer can cut and construct properly, or not.

Back in the '70s/early '80s (and before, obviously), it more or less went without saying that, if you were going to spend a small fortune on an outfit, it would be properly designed and made.

So, really, people's only worry, back then, was whether they liked the style and the colour, or not.

Hah! So true. But do remember that designers had their own specific cuts and construction techniques that they were known for, of course.

 

[Uemarasan]

Thank you for the lively debate, everyone! I knew Ungaro back in the day when he released an Orient-flavored collection (which I remember fondly), but unfortunately growing up with fashion I was overwhelmed by the aggressive theater and voices of Galliano and McQueen (a problem I've been addressing ever since). It's so lovely to read from people who are more intimately familiar with the house's signatures and allowing me to get in touch with the designer again

Oh, and this collection did seem to be superficially like Ungaro (from what I know), but is lacking in a certain refinement and sophistication I found in the man's original collections. The fun (and, some would say, tackiness) of Ungaro was always undercut by a particular elegance.

 

[Zazie]

Better than Valli? Really? Ungaro's chosen one? The house would not be in this mess if Valli had never left. They should be trying to woo him back. Like I said, Ungaro had many facets to his work, some of it was girly, some of it was loud and you could even say tacky, and some of it was regal and extremely sophisticated. It fit the moment and Giles' collection, Ungaro or otherwise, does not.

I truly agree - Valli was Ungaro's best heir! He would have modernized Ungaro and brought it to a higher level of sophistication for today. I personally like Giles Deacon, seems he's a sweet guy, but he's headed in some awful directions for his own line and Ungaro's, whom no matter if he's to everyone's taste, was a good designer for his genre, as Versace, Mugler, Armani, etc. were for theirs.

 

[mikeijames]

Better than Valli? Really? Ungaro's chosen one? The house would not be in this mess if Valli had never left. They should be trying to woo him back. Like I said, Ungaro had many facets to his work, some of it was girly, some of it was loud and you could even say tacky, and some of it was regal and extremely sophisticated. It fit the moment and Giles' collection, Ungaro or otherwise, does not.

giambattista valli remains one of the most talented designers we have today. with that said, i still think peter dundas "synched" more with the house during his short tenure. when i think of valli, the first thing is this....

style.com

we've never seen that from him at his eponymous house leading me to the conclusion that he's stronger on his own. in fact, these days, i sometimes wonder if he would've done well at valentino.

 

[BibiRose]

The first thing which came to my mind when I saw the collection- is this supposed to be Dior Couture s/s 2010 show?
Disaster, ok, maybe better than Lindsay's terrific collection but is that really a progress?

 

[Mutterlein]

giambattista valli remains one of the most talented designers we have today. with that said, i still think peter dundas "synched" more with the house during his short tenure. when i think of valli, the first thing is this....


style.com

we've never seen that from him at his eponymous house leading me to the conclusion that he's stronger on his own. in fact, these days, i sometimes wonder if he would've done well at valentino.

It's the opposite, he left and started his own brand because he couldn't change directions while he was there. He had a different vision for the house and the management wanted what you just posted. What he does on his own is probably more or less what he would have liked to have done for Ungaro. And if you can take a look at Ungaro past what style.com covers, you'll see that it fits in nicely. Could have been an amazing thing. *sigh*

 

[Alexis1983]

better than lohan (but isnt ANYTHING better than lohan?!), but NOT Ungaro. Doesnt mean it isnt nice. there are some nice parts. its wearable. Not a total let down, but not exactly the pick-me-up the line needs.

the backround was a bad idea. they should have kept it simple

 

[chloehandbags]

Hah! So true. But do remember that designers had their own specific cuts and construction techniques that they were known for, of course.

Yes, that's very true, as well.

 

[mikeijames]

It's the opposite, he left and started his own brand because he couldn't change directions while he was there. He had a different vision for the house and the management wanted what you just posted. What he does on his own is probably more or less what he would have liked to have done for Ungaro. And if you can take a look at Ungaro past what style.com covers, you'll see that it fits in nicely. Could have been an amazing thing. *sigh*

they've definitely given giles deacon more lattitude. and peter dundas. it'll be interesting to see if this look catches on.

 

[KissenKatja]

what the hell did I just laid my eyes upon?

 

[KhaoticKharma]

Why do they keep trying to make Ungaro happen?

Ungaro reigned during a time that simply isn't relevant at all in the modern climate; excess, jet set, diva lifestyles have been pushed aside in favor of a very subdued and minimalistic style. I think it would be impossible, at this place and time, to successfully (both in terms of money and aesthetics) resurrect Ungaro without almost entirely abandoning his aesthetic.

 

[leyla m.]

right, so i am about to see this IRL but quite frankly Giles is pretty close with his debut at ungaro... he knows the womans' body/shape and does extravagant feminine so well in his own collection which a lot of people underestimate. i believe this sense will translate beautifully for ungaro
another plus: the company producing this collection is one of the best ones in the industry... so at least the finishing of the product is assured! *phew*
now i will keep my final thoughts for when i have come back from the showroom

 

[tiffany]

Why do they keep trying to make Ungaro happen?

Ungaro reigned during a time that simply isn't relevant at all in the modern climate; excess, jet set, diva lifestyles have been pushed aside in favor of a very subdued and minimalistic style. I think it would be impossible, at this place and time, to successfully (both in terms of money and aesthetics) resurrect Ungaro without almost entirely abandoning his aesthetic.

You have a point, but I suppose they're more concerned with keeping a name afloat that will sell as opposed to keeping his aesthetic alive