Erdem F/W 09.10 London

[jacobs]

LONDON, February 23, 2009

By Sarah Mower

Intense focus on individual creativity and quality of execution are the driving forces behind this season's London shows. They've propelled Erdem Moralioglu into a place where he could almost be called the Christian Lacroix of London: a super-decorator and colorist who commands print and embroideries in ways that surpass expectations—especially those of someone who is based in the East End. For Fall, Moralioglu's silhouettes were mostly variations on a theme: a short, doll-like, Empire line with a puffed-up skirt. It was a step away from his waftily romantic Summer collection: "I thought, She's not running free and romantic in the meadows this season," he said. "Now she's visited nightclubs and gone home on the bus." Still, it was hard to see followers of Erdem being less than entranced with the surface details—cutout black lace applied dramatically to red duchesse satin, and stylized red, purple, and black chrysanthemums or tiny yellow violas embroidered by a fellow Royal College of Art alumnus who lives in Brighton and happens to have something approaching the interpretive techniques of Lesage. If all this sounds grandiose and pretentious, the saving grace was that it was all designed within the sphere of a young girl's mentality. Toward the end, though, there was a passage of long, slim dresses with long sleeves strong enough to make several grown-up women in the audience take notice.

style.com

 

[jacobs]

style.com

 

[jacobs]

style.com

 

[jacobs]

style.com

 

[jacobs]

style.com

 

[Gainsbourg]

This is making me think of throw pillows...

 

[eternitygoddess]

I really like that black lace over red satin dress.

 

[Trista]

Oh I totally second you there, I like it-just I'd like it more sleeveless.

 

[enVogue]

I really like that black lace over red satin dress.

Yeah, that one looks gorgeous

 

[larien]

Oh, he is doing it so well! I love the prints and the lace dresses

 

[Lacroix]

Some of this reminds me of Lacroix

 

[Marianne85]

I like it

 

[gr77]

I love it.I was looking forward to this collection

 

[mariska]

i love how the black tights make the prints stand out, almost glow. and i would like to see the shoes close-up, seems they are painted also

 

[Treefingers]

Wow wow wow.

Erdem isn't disappointing.

 

[leyla m.]

his work is incredible!
i am so happy he is one of the london designers, he really brightens up the scene every season!

 

[4n98]

Lovely...except A little Christian Lacroix to me.

 

[dumbfairy]

Good collection,he's really beginning to create his own personal 'look'. Like it

 

[Peregrina_RZ]

i usually love loud, big, flamboyant, gallianescque designers, but i always have a special place for Erdem, i don't know why, i really like it!!

 

[liberty33r1b]

"Lacroix of London" - i couldn't agree more! this is exciting, i'd love to have every piece from that collection.