This is something I haven't seen from Erdem before - a collection I like.
He's still got his trademark florals but it becomes so much more sophisticated and mature with experimentation in fabrics, textures and shapes. The layering of the beaded black chiffon; the long, thin feathers coming from the centre of the embellishments; that chiffon double-breasted coat; the feather dress beneath the chiffon; the pale pink taffeta facings appearing at the hems.
It just feels as if a lot more thought has gone into the design, even if it is mainly at the fabric-sourcing and embroidery design stages.