Fashion House Musical Chairs: Designers Going From House to House

Discussion in 'Fashion... In Depth' started by KhaoticKharma, Mar 6, 2010.

  1. KhaoticKharma

    KhaoticKharma Amour Comme Hiver

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2005
    Messages:
    4,554
    Likes Received:
    1
    Alessandra Facchinetti- Gucci, Valentino
    Lars Nilsson- Bill Blass, Nina Ricci, Gianfranco Ferrer
    Olivier Theyskens- Rochas, Nina Ricci

    These are just a few that I can name off the top of my head. What do they have in common? They've all been appointed to multiple fashion houses, but they haven't seemed to be able to stick around for very long. Is there a common denominator, or multiple factors? Due to their artistic talent (maybe even lack there of), or some commercial aspect? Obviously there will be different reasoning for each designer, but I am still curious for responses to this question.
     
  2. carmen_kass

    carmen_kass Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2007
    Messages:
    3,376
    Likes Received:
    6
    Karl Lagerfeld himself has jumped ship quite a bit over the years, he used to be at chloe and has designed for other houses as well. Now obviously he's fixed at Chanel and Fendi, I think his own line used to be Lagerfelg Gallery and now it's simply 'karl lagerfeld'.
     
  3. MulletProof

    MulletProof Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2004
    Messages:
    26,631
    Likes Received:
    1,635
  4. Squizree

    Squizree Looking Up

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2006
    Messages:
    18,296
    Likes Received:
    83
    Those designers were all fired because they weren't selling clothes. Poor Alessandra :(
     
  5. Mathewthew

    Mathewthew Active Member

    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2005
    Messages:
    643
    Likes Received:
    61
    For me it's funny why valentino fired Alessandra, maybe she played too save in Gucci...Honstly, Frida done a better job, although I didn't really enjoy gucci clothes.
    But she have done something amazing for valentino. I mean her collections and couture is much better than right now, I really hope that she can finanlly land a good position or start her own brand
     
  6. Squizree

    Squizree Looking Up

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2006
    Messages:
    18,296
    Likes Received:
    83
    Don't even bother showing your face here again :lol: kidding. Frida is a good businesswoman Ill give her that, but not on the same creative level as Alessandra.
    What is Alessandra doing at the moment anyway?
     
  7. KhaoticKharma

    KhaoticKharma Amour Comme Hiver

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2005
    Messages:
    4,554
    Likes Received:
    1
    I suppose what I find puzzling is that many designers that bounce from house to house, Olivier in particular, is that they are regarded by the vast majority of fashion elite as being grand artists, the finest of their generation. The only Vogue I regularly read (in print) is US, and both Rochas and Nina Ricci were featured heavily in editorials and even articles. If industry insiders laud these designers left and right, why doesn't anyone buy their clothing? Or if a designer like Lars has designed for multiple houses to no avail, but still keeps getting work- why is he still frequently hired?
     
  8. MyNameIs

    MyNameIs Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2005
    Messages:
    13,745
    Likes Received:
    422
    To be honest to the new Valentino designers, their SS10 collection and the Spring 10 HC collection were both really wonderful. Everything else, however, has been just dreadful.

    I don't really understand what the new designer is doing at Nina Ricci. I don't really know the history of the brand, but it's a 180 change from what was happening there before. Not in a good way either.

    Similarly with Salvatore Ferragamo. It seems like it's a conscious decision by the management to go into a different direction, but alas it's the wrong direction to go to, after that sleek and chic clothes the seasons before.
     
  9. reese06

    reese06 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2005
    Messages:
    2,172
    Likes Received:
    254
    Probably working out a deal to work with Tom Ford on his women's line.
     
  10. helmut.newton

    helmut.newton New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2008
    Messages:
    4,708
    Likes Received:
    4
    Paulo Melim Andersson went from I forget which house to Marni to Chloe to ???
     
  11. nyc_art_style

    nyc_art_style Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2008
    Messages:
    2,985
    Likes Received:
    41
    I actually believe that these designers, alessandra especially, play a certain role in fashion.

    Once a name sake designer leaves a house one of these designers comes in and designs while the fashion world takes time to mourn the house and reminisce. Then once the media is ready to truly pay attention to the house again, the transition designer is kicked to the curb, and the "real' replacements come in.

    It could also be a matter of whether or not a designer really gels with a house and it's employees. And of course there is the issue of money.
     
  12. LagerfeldBoy

    LagerfeldBoy Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2008
    Messages:
    4,257
    Likes Received:
    3
    Couldn't agree more:heart:.
    As for Paulo Melin Andersson (who was at Marni & then went to Chloe), I really wish he would've stayed at Chloe. I love Hannah McGibbon at Chloe, but Paolo's vision of the quintessential Chloe gurl was so fresh & modern that made me so intrigued in his collections season after season.
     
    #12 LagerfeldBoy, Mar 7, 2010
    Last edited by moderator debralynnross18: Mar 7, 2010
  13. honeycombchild

    honeycombchild Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2009
    Messages:
    8,626
    Likes Received:
    432
    Rocha's was closed for financial reasons wasn't it? (Even though it's since re-opened and is designing clothes with more wearability) So Oliver didn't really have a choice but to leave Rocha's, and then almost the same thing happened with Ricci didn't it? He came to the end of his contract, which was then not renewed. So it's not really something he had much of a choice in I imagine.

    They did both do well editorially, but I doubt their sales were all that impressive. He was a big gown man, which while being beautiful and perfect for editorial and red carpet appearances, don't really make for amazing sales figures.
     
  14. mikeijames

    mikeijames no tom ford, no thanks.

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2003
    Messages:
    5,880
    Likes Received:
    1
    whether it's in fashion or not, change creates excitement. it's why cereal companies change their packaging, it's why companies spend millions on re-branding campaigns, it's why politicians craft speeches contradicting their old positions. within the world of fashion, this remains true. you'll notice that at the houses where the designers have stayed the same, the amount of change at those houses remains monumental. karl lagerfeld is such a genius that he can oscilate between a surfer girl one season and present a beautiful paris-monaco season the next. many houses would have to change designers to get that radical of a change.

    also, let's not forget the economics of this beast. young, fresh talent remains the cheapest on the marketplace. once they've established themselves as good, they don't have to work for pennies on the dollars of the more established designers. unless these houses are willing to pony up more money, many of these designers willingly leave because they know they're worth more.
     
  15. carmen_kass

    carmen_kass Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2007
    Messages:
    3,376
    Likes Received:
    6
    What's happening with Olivier theyskens (I know I spelt that wrong LOL)?
     
  16. Salvatore

    Salvatore Wanderlust

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2003
    Messages:
    6,655
    Likes Received:
    396
    You spelled it correct :lol:

    I think that with Alessandra's case is that she followed behind two great (subjective of course) designers both during times of changes at the top so these types of transitions are always messy . She gets used kind of as a trial designer which I don't think is fair since she is extremely talented .

    I think at the end of the day, however, it all comes down to personality clashes and money .
     
  17. Chanelcouture09

    Chanelcouture09 Some Like It Hot

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2009
    Messages:
    10,586
    Likes Received:
    5
    Don't forget Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Julien Mcdonald at Givenchy
    and Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philio and Paulo Melim Andersson at Chloé
     
  18. ilaughead

    ilaughead Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2006
    Messages:
    4,763
    Likes Received:
    0
    In Olivier's case, I think it couldn't be helped that he would be fired. P&G didn't have any experience in the fashion industry, and I imagine it would be rather intimidating to try to keep that up when I can't see Rochas succeeding without the kind of accessory business that Rochas didn't have.
     
  19. WilhelmF

    WilhelmF Active Member

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2008
    Messages:
    4,957
    Likes Received:
    5
    I don't think Phoebe and Stella should be mention here as they both chose to go from Chloé. Stella was offered to open her own label and Phoebe chose to step back from fashion to focus on other priorities.

    Paulo is another story though... :innocent:
     
  20. Spike413

    Spike413 barcode

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2004
    Messages:
    14,811
    Likes Received:
    7
    Out of all the names presented so far, the one that truly sticks out as a sore thumb is Alessandra Faccinetti, for no other reason than the fact that at both houses she inherited she was given anything but a fair shot at success. Both of her stints lasted only one fashion year (a s/s and a f/w season). Talent certainly isn't an issue, and even though there are mixed feelings about her work at Valentino the truth is that she had a firm grasp on both of the legacies she had to work with.

    With her I think it was a matter of not getting what both Gucci Group and Marzotto/Permira bargained for. Obviously it's just speculation on my part, but given both the circumstances under which Tom Ford left Gucci and Frida Giannini filling the role of creative director after her two co-directors left after brief stints at the helm, it seems like Gucci Group wanted much more control over the Gucci label, everything from the products (all of those pre-season logo bag editions, the general mainstreaming and pairing down of the clothes that end up in stores) to the image of the house (the constant pushing of Gucci's heritage, the sterilization of it's hedonistic former image). I'm guessing there was some internal conflict over creative control that was never disclosed, because two full seasons worth of clothing sales doesn't seem like enough time to judge whether or not a designer's product sells well. I can't believe that sales were what got her fired, especially when RTW isn't the big money maker to begin with. I'm guessing it would have been easier for Gucci to exert control over someone who is out of their element, such as an accessory designer working as a creative director of a fashion house.

    As for her stint at Valentino, I just think she upset people by having her own point of view and not sticking with the exact same course that the house had been on. Clearly that was what upset the founder himself, and all of a sudden when the news broke that she was being let go the company was agreeing with him.

    Obviously this is just something I concocted, and isn't actually based on anything. :innocent:

    Those were very different situations in that none of those designers were unceremoniously ousted from the house. Galliano left after two seasons because he was offered Dior and made the choice to leave. McQueen's contract wasn't renewed after three and a half years due to uneven reviews and sales, the bitter working relationship between him and LVMH, and his choice to sell a stake in his label to Gucci Group while he was still under contract at Givenchy (I'm guessing that last one was the straw that broke the camel's back). Even still, they just let his contract run out, he wasn't actually fired. Macdonald as well remained for the duration of his contract (3 years, I think), even though his time at the house was hardly a success.
     
    #20 Spike413, Jun 23, 2010
    Last edited by moderator Ava Madison: Jun 24, 2010

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice
monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"