From WWD-
“Fendi is the burning summer of passion,” read the adorably earnest, questionably translated show notes. A burnt paper backdrop and the blush-worthy heavy panting on the soundtrack were an attempt to illustrate the theme, but it was all just a tease. Sex appeal was beside the point of this collection, which was really very PG.
Rather it was full of easy daywear, most channeling a languid, Seventies mood, made with extraordinary craftsmanship — more than met the eye. So, while the opening looks — a white, off-shoulder linen peasant dress and a poet blouse featuring a burnout print — looked like literal interpretations of summer heat, the message Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Fendi intended was a play on structure and lightness. “When you burn something out or wear something many times it becomes very light but maintains structure,” Fendi said before the show. More contrasts came in lantern sleeves on roomy, long shirtdresses and blouses that buttoned up the arm, bold colors — purple, turquoise, red and peach — on soft fabrics, and the seemingly simple, delicate dots and multicolor patterns that were actually highly engineered fabrics, the former, a rubberized print, the latter, superfine strips of leather intricately woven into a skirt.
If those flaunted the house’s history of advanced techniques with textiles and skins, the accessories — bags, specifically — were a reverent example of old-fashioned Italian savoir faire. They came in classic, ladylike shapes, mostly square with a hard frame, many done in colorful strips of shiny eel, or soft leather contrasted with slick, hard croc, each one distinctive and fabulous. One amazing style was made of several different, colorful leathers, a time-consuming process to assemble. “If you use 10 different leathers, you wait for 10 different factories to deliver them,” said Fendi. “It’s not an industrialized process.”