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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by vogue28, Jan 25, 2021.
One trick ruffle...
It's sugary and sweet and a bit too referential of vintage Valentino but he seems to have edited himself this time and it's pretty. I'll take it.
So I guessed Daniel Roseberrywas refer to Giambattista Valli when he said “If you want to look like a cupcake, you can go somewhere else,”.
It's too much of everything but the Inez and Vinoodh-esque photography makes it look more interesting than it is. I don't hate it.
At this point, I'm not even sure he needs to continue doing couture. It's been a never-ending collection drown in tulle and ruffles. What's more, I feel like his brand has been suffering, and focusing solely on the RTW may be a solution. Now Giambattista Valli seems to be getting more and more desperate to do commercial clothes and accessories with the bland logo printed on them. I'm also pretty sure keeping couture alive has been ruining the brand financially.
Grace Mirabella's famous caption of Lacroix which pretty much applies to Valli as well. Only I think he is the one who has fallen out of step with the what fashion is about right now.:
I always felt that Lacroix's was a profoundly anti-woman moment. So it amazed me to see how avidly women fell for his clothes. They fell in droves, sometimes at $45,000 a pop. I'd see them all turned out at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute ball wearing his costumes -- or other similar confections by Ungaro or Scaasi -- and I remember thinking how absolutely tortured they looked. And often they were tortured: Their crinolines didn't permit them to sit down and they had to turn sideways to fit through doorways. When I saw this, and I saw the glee with which so many women swallowed it up, I realized that it wasn't Lacroix, it was I who was falling out of step. Lacroix's success told me that there was something widespread going on in society and that his clothes were just the tip of the iceberg. It told me, very clearly, what these women, flaunting their froufrou, were really all about: wealth and display and excess. And in that, they weren't unlike everyone else in New York in the 1980s.
Thanks Benn! Your citation from Mirabella is pure gold. Compared with Valli and the like, Lacroix was and is still on another level. Between Valli and van Herpen, both of them seem to always stick with their formulas, I always feel Valli's couture pieces lack the refinement that we can always find in a couture house, while van Herpen succeeds in persuading me that she innovates her laser cutting techniques.
That white dress with touches of green and pink is very exquisite!
Tulle galore. What's new here? It's the same collection they've been presenting for like a decade. Move on, please!