Gibo Plants Flag in Footwear

oStelios

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Italian manufacturer Gibo Co. SpA has taken a 60 percent stake in footwear producer Iris for an undisclosed sum.
Iris produces shoe collections under license for Marc Jacobs, Chloe, Veronique Branquinho, Proenza Schouler, Viktor & Rolf and John Galliano.
In an exclusive interview on Tuesday, Gibo chairman Franco Pene also said the company has decided to terminate the Gibo line of ready-to-wear.

"We launched Gibo to experience private labeling and retailing, but now that Onward Kashiyama has acquired Joseph, our focus has shifted on this brand and its 63 sales points," said Pene.

Last month the Tokyo-based fashion manufacturer, retailer and distributor Onward Kashiyama, which has a stake in Gibo, acquired U.K. retailer and apparel brand Joseph for about $258 million. Pene said he plans to position Joseph in the same price segment as Burberry and cover similar products. Burberry's products include women's and men's rtw, outerwear and accessories.

The Gibo line was launched for spring 2003, designed by artist Julie Verhoeven. Last year, Gibo tapped Japanese designer Ichiro Seta as the new creative director of the collection in an effort to make it more commercial. Seta's first collection launched for spring 2005 during Milan Fashion Week. The last Gibo collection was produced for this fall.

Pene said the Milan Gibo store will be closed and will reopen in a few months as an Iris boutique, where all the collections produced by the footwear company will be available. There is an existing Iris boutique in Paris.

Pene, who is not focused on purchasing brands per se but in complementing his company's manufacturing know-how, said he has no plans to change the status quo at Iris and insisted owner Giuseppe Baiardo will remain with the company. Just as he did last year when Gibo took control of knitwear company Maglificio Erika, Pene said he wants to keep Iris' knowledge and human resources.

"We want to grow a production and commercial pole that will range from clothing to footwear and accessories," said Pene, hinting at a possible acquisition at some point of a handbag manufacturer.

"Iris is the photocopy of Gibo, with a history pretty much identical to ours. Iris works in the high-end niche, its essence is similar to ours and it has a history of excellence. I will not touch the structure of the company but will improve the financial organization and bring our fashion experience. We plan to grow together," said Pene.

In addition to the production of Paul Smith, Gibo makes and distributes the women's collections for Antonio Berardi, Michael Kors and Project Alabama; the men's collections for Marc Jacobs and Joseph, and both divisions for Viktor & Rolf and Hussein Chalayan. Gibo also makes the new men's line for John Galliano, launched for spring 2004. Pene said he will not change or interfere with the relationships between Iris and the other fashion companies it works with.

Iris reported sales of 17 million euros, or $20.4 million at current exchange rates, last year and plans to close 2005 with sales of 26 million euros, or $31.2 million. Based in Fiesso D'Artico, in the Riviera del Brenta area known for the production of footwear, Iris has 180 employees.

Gibo, based outside Florence, will report sales of 50 million euros, or $60 million, in 2005, in line with last year.

Pene, who is one of the few fashion executives who did not envision 2004 as a turnaround year after the post-Sept. 11 downturn, expressed optimism for the future.

"The worst is behind us and 2006 will be the year sales will eventually pick up, with a really positive 2007," he said.

link: http://www.wwd.com/accessories/article/99726
 
I'm not quite sure I understand what is going on....so julie verhoevan is gone...and these iris stores...will they carry all the shoes that the brand produces for...?
 
thanks ostelios...a lot of fascinating info there....
great post!!...:flower:
 
Interesting, thanks for posting, oStelios. More convoluted corporate ownerships! :rolleyes: Anyways the acquisition sounds like a logical one for Gibo, although I'm sorry to hear that they'll be dropping the ready-to-wear line; I always thought it had promise, and just needed a little extra push.

The bit about Joseph piqued my curiousity, too...a Burberry competitor? I wonder who they'll get to design it...
 
Meg said:
I'm not quite sure I understand what is going on....so julie verhoevan is gone...and these iris stores...will they carry all the shoes that the brand produces for...?

Julie's departure was discussed on TFS last year , you could do a search . :flower:

I take the article to mean that as GIBO has bought IRIS , and as IRIS has manufacturing contracts with various labels , the two companies will be combined .
Any GIBO stores will effectively become IRIS shoe shops selling all the labels that IRIS produces for , and the GIBO clothes line will be discontinued .

Hope I'm right , I could just do with a cuppa.............:blush:
 
haha thanks Kit for being concise about it. I think I still though Julie was with Gibo because she was on the last page of Vogue this month or last and was talking about it so I assumed she was still there, though clearly I haven't been paying attention. Thanks :flower:
 
droogist said:
Interesting, thanks for posting, oStelios. More convoluted corporate ownerships! :rolleyes: Anyways the acquisition sounds like a logical one for Gibo, although I'm sorry to hear that they'll be dropping the ready-to-wear line; I always thought it had promise, and just needed a little extra push.

The bit about Joseph piqued my curiousity, too...a Burberry competitor? I wonder who they'll get to design it...

Joseph has a design team . I don't think that Joseph Ettegedui ever did any actual designing , he was the entrepreneur running the Joseph shops , and he had large slices of Yohji Yamamoto - London ; also owning Kenzo - London , Connolly leather ( although I think the shop on Conduit Street closed ) , Joe's cafe , and of course the myriad Joseph shops - some full of delicious French , Italian ' Japanese etc designer imports - others just shops for his eponymous and renowned classics for women and for men .

One thing that I think will now happen is that Onward Kashiyama will open a branch of ' BUS STOP ' , like the one in NYC that Soft:heart: so lovingly described for us in ' Shop till you drop ' .

Times and things change ...........:innocent:
 
....stores I know had serius problems dealing with Gibo the last years
(they ordered big part of men's V & R collection but to them arrived only 2 "monsieur" tees)
 
kit said:
Joseph has a design team . I don't think that Joseph Ettegedui ever did any actual designing , he was the entrepreneur running the Joseph shops , and he had large slices of Yohji Yamamoto - London ; also owning Kenzo - London , Connolly leather ( although I think the shop on Conduit Street closed ) , Joe's cafe , and of course the myriad Joseph shops - some full of delicious French , Italian ' Japanese etc designer imports - others just shops for his eponymous and renowned classics for women and for men .
But I'm assuming that they'll have to bring in a new head designer, or at least inject some new blood into the existing team, because at the moment I don't see Joseph as being in any position to compete with a company like Burberry. Not to get all gossipy or anything, but for a very brief period several years ago I worked as a SA at one of the Joseph shops in NYC. Let's just say that I was a good deal less than impressed with both company (massively disorganized) and product (overpriced basics), and I haven't noticed much of an improvement since...
One thing that I think will now happen is that Onward Kashiyama will open a branch of ' BUS STOP ' , like the one in NYC that Soft:heart: so lovingly described for us in ' Shop till you drop ' .
I think you're right about that; apparently the Paris Onward shop is going to be rechristened "Bus Stop" (if it hasn't happened already).
 
agree Droogist. Not that I've worked for Joseph but as it is now, I would find it difficult to compete with burberry or burberry prorsum.
 
droogist said:
But I'm assuming that they'll have to bring in a new head designer, or at least inject some new blood into the existing team, because at the moment I don't see Joseph as being in any position to compete with a company like Burberry. Not to get all gossipy or anything, but for a very brief period several years ago I worked as a SA at one of the Joseph shops in NYC. Let's just say that I was a good deal less than impressed with both company (massively disorganized) and product (overpriced basics), and I haven't noticed much of an improvement since...

I think you're right about that; apparently the Paris Onward shop is going to be rechristened "Bus Stop" (if it hasn't happened already).

You are right , droogist :flower:

Joseph Ettegedui was VERY successful as an entrpreneur , in the 80s he nearly equalled the Bursteins of BROWNS in the success of his shops full of French and Italian imports , or Pedr Bertelson of an absolute plethora of designer boutiques like Valentino and Giorgio Armani , and of course Joseph owned the London franchise for KENZO .

He actually started out as a hairdresser on the Kings Road , with a small stock of clothes that just grew and grew until the hairdressing was ditched , in favour of retail of continental designer clothes .

He was loyally supported by his English wife , but as he grew massively , in the 80s , he ditched her for a much younger trophy French girl , and the two became famous about town , with his Chelsea penthouse and his Rolls-Royce . That's when things went downhill as he forgot what paid the bills and was more interested in seeing his photo in TATLER and HARPERS-QUEEN etc as one of the London glitterati .

He sold out to Onward Kashiyama just at the right time .

Whether they will appoint a specific designer - artistic director , a la Tom Ford , would certainly seem to be an important consideration if they want to compete with Burberry , but don't forget EVERYBODY is going to be the new Gucci - Burberry - Lanvin etc , such as Stroll and Chiu of the Tommy Hilfiger-Largerfeld Gallery conglomerate , but there are not enough Rose Marie Bravo's or Christopher Bailey's to go round . And anyway , Burberry is an old and established name for quality . ' Joseph - est.1980 ' does not have the same cachet .

Only time will tell . :unsure:
 

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