GILES DEACON
"IF the Wonderbra Girl and the face of LV don't get people to sit up, I don't know what will," said Giles Deacon before his show last night. But even without the promised run of supermodels (as well as Eva Herzigova and Karen Elson, Nadja Auermann, Anouk Lepere and Erin O'Connor also showed up), the clothes themselves more than justitfied the packed-to-the-rafters crowd in the Royal Hospital Chelsea last night. With an emphasis on strict, Forties curves, tweed pencil skirts came under fitted jackets with slight puff sleeves, silk blouses featured large pussycat bows at the collar and pleated chiffon tops were attached to sexy girdles high on the thigh. Softly curled hair, that was parted and held up by a large clip on one side, gave a nod to the starlets of Hollywood's golden days to complete a look that Deacon describes as "grown-up but also playful and sexy in a more chic than brash way". Working from a converted school in Shoreditch these days, the 34-year-old Yorkshire-born designer, who has worked for Debenhams, Gucci and Bottega Veneta since graduating from Central Saint Martins over a decade ago, says London is the place to establish his name. "There is an awful lot of freedom here," he says. "British youth are leading the fashion scene, not following, which makes it the best place to start what I hope will turn into a new label." But despite the hype surrounding his debut show, the calibre of catwalker that appeared in it, and the £80,000 in sponsorship from Vauxhall that he received in sponsorship, Deacon is determined not to get carried away. "It's great that people think good things," he says. "But I take it with a pinch of salt. I know how people can get carried away with writing things and bigging things up. The next thing you know they take much more glee in laughing at you when you are down." (February 17 2004, AM)