Stereo_Flo
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Share with us... Your Best & Worst Collections of Haute Couture F/W 2025.26
The story Giorgio Armani told for pre-fall isn't a new one, but nobody tells it better than he does. If he didn't invent the idea of androgynous dressing, he certainly put his imprimatur on it. And he demonstrated his sure hand here with such pieces as a charcoal gray, six-button double-breasted trouser suit. Armani makes it a policy to experiment with a new cut of pants each season. This time around, the bottom few inches of trousers were loosely gathered, creating a slouchy, draped effect at the ankle.
The girl in boy-meets-girl dressing came through in the collection's bright pops of orange and fuchsia, a callback to the colors in his Japonisme-inflected haute couture show last July. The sweetest dress in the bunch was sleeveless, with a slightly blousoned bodice over a full, floaty skirt. Other numbers had a clingier, more body-conscious fit thanks to scubalike fabrics, but the evening looks that made the most impact were the tuxedos. He's still at his best when he's cutting a suit.
You know, it’s funny. Ask women who love to shop what their favorite season is and, regardless of how classic or outrageous their personal style, they’ll probably name pre-fall or resort. It’s not that they don’t get excited by the main fall and spring collections, filled as they are with glorious pieces that can shift the way we see the world, it’s just that the transitional seasons really deliver things to wear. This time of year designers are focused less on moving a label forward than they are on filling in the gaps with the kinds of clothes for which they’re best known.
For Giorgio Armani, that would be the suit. He’s interpreted it over the years for red carpets and boardrooms and for pre-fall 2012 he’s taken yet another new approach. The silhouette is fluid, lean, and close to the body, neither boxy nor overly structured, so that it comes across as womenswear first, menswear second. Consider a soft blazer in a thin virgin wool that hangs on the body, ever so insouciant, and long pants that flow to the floor, solidly grounded by thin, flat loafers. The look is a nice, somewhat relaxed alternative to all the girly skirts and dresses that have dominated the collections recently. And the fabric, lightweight with a print resembling tweed, gives the illusion of heft without bulk. Armani also played with textures such as the contrast of silk and velvet pinstripes on roomy tux pants.
It’s been decades since the Milan-based designer made his reputation as the signore of sophistication, and in many ways, the idea of an Armani suit seems delightfully nostalgic. Yet the versions he presented for pre-fall prove that one can stick to his strengths while continuing to evolve.