Givenchy Haute Couture F/W 2018.19 Paris

[dior_couture1245]

I will say this:

There is something compelling here. Maybe in a certain way it feels like the first time in very long time that we’ve gotten someone at Givenchy paying homage to Audrey (I know McDonald did a collection, and Riccardo’s first RTW had a hint of it, too). It’s almost as if all the creative directors since Hubert deliberately avoided her specter in the House, which is fine, of course, but maybe having Claire take the time to pay the respects makes one realize how much her presence and spirit was missed in a certain way.

I still find most of the looks to be just too stiff and hard...I can’t stand the jewelry and the metal belts...those elements seem too much like literal efforts to “modernize” the archives. But regardless, I do like the sort of archival intention. I almost think in some weird way, it would have been actually quite gorgeous had she ditched the effort to update everything, and just sent out a gorgeously edited parade of archives. You think that that era Couture is dated, except I remember how Nicolas would reproduce verbatim Balenciaga archives during his time at the house and it was surprising, actually, how fabulous that was...worn on a fresh looking girl with modern hair and makeup, some cool shoes....really fantastic looking, actually. I sort of wish the same had been done here, to be honest.

But I do appreciate to a certain degree the effort to really chase elegance and beauty and live up to a certain standard...we live in a world of so much ugly and irony...I respect her desire to do something to counter all that. There really is something quite stirring and compelling about the opening look coming out with the gorgeous, swelling Mancini “Charade” soundtrack.

 

[AnaD]

First up, I LOVE the runway styling, so sleek and chic!

Claire has promise, but this is far from what is going to be her best work. It's pretty and refreshingly elegant, but I miss some of Ricardo's glamourous sexiness. Also, there's too much embellishment, the girls are being swallowed by sparkle, feathers, and fabric. It's good though, and I can't wait to see how she improves on this vision.

 

[Nymphaea]

Clearly there is potential, but it misses the masters touch. Better than most atm.

 

[perhydrol]

It was fantastic. Clare gave us a beautiful and respectful tribute to Monsieur Hubert (it wasn't their very first collection after his death because there's the Resort one, but it's obvious that it was couture that would be much more suitable) that still felt modern and interesting. Especially the black dress that is covering the face, I think it's called Interesante, was a really good take on what they have in the archives.

It shows that Clare was a good decision of them, because she actually pays attention the spirit of Hubert's work and it hadn't felt that way since he had left the house.

 

[dodencebt]

I did like Clare's first couture collection more, but I'll cut her some slack because this was clearly a (touching) tribute to Monsieur Givenchy that she felt had to be done and I respect that. I'll also agree that the clothes looked much better in motion and that 'Moon River' was a very classy, moving touch.

I really think Clare has a lot of potential and that her best years at Givenchy are yet to come.

 

[TaylorBinque]

As a collection that puts the front and center to tribute Mr. Givenchy, it is a beautiful and moving collection. What I find interesting about her clothes is that they are really meant to be worn. Many time her work doesn't translate in photographs but are beautiful in motion.

This collection isn't perfect but it shows her firm confidence and her touch of sophistication. In a sea of boats chasing the same street savvy, this clothes are meant to be worn by real people who appreciate the art of making clothes.

 

[mistress_f]

No gimmicks, lots of amazing dresses, austere (so perhaps more adult oriented), sharp tailoring - what's not to love here?
For ''youthful'' hot messes there's already a gigantic market out there, i'll gladly take this.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Nice try, she deserves some praise for trying to bring glamour back at the forefront but she misses the mark with the overly voluminous cuts on top of all this layering. I get the whole retrospective thing but this just needed to be presented in a cleaner, sharper and less cluttered manner to really get the message across. At Balenciaga's masterful F/W 06.07 this type of homage really worked because the vision was so much more focused than in here, the looks they referenced were carefully cherry-picked and each silhouette was reproduced with astounding craft with just enough modifications so they didn't look dusty and no superfluous fluff.

As it is, I just find this attempt overly precious and at times kind of cheesy with all the embroideries and pastel satin, it ends up looking more 80's mother-of-the-bride than Audrey Hepburn as the world's most beautiful bride on Funny Face.

 

[IndigoHomme]

Amazing collection, stunning looks for a very elegant woman

 

[maxlinden]

Those men’s looks could be great worn by women. Her cut for men is a bit indecisive. She is dressing skinny guys but the cut doesn’t seem to go well with those said skinny guys.

Her menswear is like Vaccarello’s. It is relevant as long as it is attached to a big name.

I disagree, I have been working with Givenchy menswear for months on a majority of skinny men and it fits perfectly on slender men. I have noticed that Givenchy and Calvin Klein have the same fit for their trousers and dress shirts(similar design as well), with a slight edge to Calvin.

I really don't expect couture to be trendy, the cliental is usually mature in age and or have a high position in society. This collection though boring to watch looked very beautiful to wear.

 

[Lola701]

^^
To fair, my comment was based on the double-breasted suit. I find the fit odd.

 

[ghostwriter10549]

Now we are talking Ms. Keller. Its not THERE yet, this is a very good work with the fabrics and cuts and sometimes goes beyond the tenure and evoke some "couture fantasy galore", but too subtle.

They were right about her, she is a quiet storm indeed. I have a felling that in two seasons we will start see really incredibles things from her.

PS: what a glorious moment at end of show when the atelier shows up, I loved it.

 

[Pricciao]

It looks so dated. People saying it looks like Armani Prive, for me it looks more like Ralph Rucci, Azzaro, etc...

I'm all for her designing with a mature woman in mind, but this just screams Upper East Side wife.

Same. The overcoats are so Million Dollar Listing/Gossip Girl ten years ago. Pure nuts killer

 

[KKnardi]

This collection is trying so hard to be interesting and special. I'm not sold... Some outfits look really awkward on

 

[Mutterlein]

I really wanted to like this but I can't.

Claire is trying really hard. Really. Heck, I loved the resort collection she released just before they staged this show. But I look at these clothes and I just don't see their relevance to the world today. I don't see much in them that incites desire or wonder for the wearer or those who will gaze upon them. It' a very studied, very self-aware collection yet with such low dramatic effect payoff.

Claire is a true talent but I'm not sure she has right passion and vision for Givenchy. The clothes feel like a farce, an unsophisticated approximation of what couture might outta be.

It feel like she's overthinking it and would benefit from of a more simple, more modern, more real life approach.