nytimes cathy horyn panned the collection over all that and pucci
Gucci and Pucci: Milan Gridlock
By
Cathy HorynIt will scarcely come as a surprise to long-time observers of Italian fashion that several designers focused on sex for fall. Isn’t that somebody’s job here? But to see the back-to-back collections today of Frida Giannini at Gucci and Peter Dundas at Pucci is to marvel at how succinct each was in relating the sexy essentials. Apparently all you need is a loose top and a pair of leggings or ultra-skinny pants.
Antonio Calanni/Associated Press The Gucci show in Milan.
“I don’t think my bottom looked that cute when I was 12,” a store buyer said, sighing, after the Gucci parade.
If there was a skirt in Giannini’s show, it was too small to be memorable. She preferred boy rock star trouser suits in jacquard checks, slinky slacks based on gym wear, and those ubiquitous leggings. She did have some nice mini dresses in graphic silk prints, which were shown with thigh-high black leather boots with needle heels. Nothing like a chic pair of dominatrix boots for a fall day.
This was Dundas’ debut at Pucci. There have been so many designers at Pucci, I’ve lost track. At least Dundas, a former designer Ungaro, didn’t take us back to the jet-set era. In fact, although the press notes kept harping on the brand’s “noble heritage,” I didn’t see much connection, apart from the murky palette of some of the swirly prints.
The press notes went on to say that trousers paid homage to the Capri, a staple in Pucci collections. What I saw was a very skinny, low-riding cargo pant in military green or suede. Dundas likes sexy clothes — he’s been on the case — but some folks will see similarities to the glam trashiness of Christophe Decarnin’s Balmain.
Well, so be it. Sexiness of this kind is a pretty shallow wading pool to quibble about who plays in it. If you’re looking at the collection online, check out the oversized T-shirts, a silky baseball jacket with embroidery on the back, and the cute clutch bags. If Dundas can develop “the product,” as retailers say, he may just have something at Pucci.
Bottega Veneta was dreamy and interesting today. The shapes were very one-dimensional, the opening crepe silk and twill dresses like envelopes. I didn’t see the connection between the soft cream-tone dresses and black granny booties with anklets. But at least you could see the models’ legs. Some of Tomas Maier’s long pleated dresses were beautiful — and we haven’t seen a lot of plain-old beautiful.