Gucci F/W 2022.23 Milan

I really enjoy the set and music, very decadence, very entertaining, it's really help me to get through another parade of merchandise from Gucci.

The collection is the same as always with Alessandro. A remix of different decades, that once feel exciting now it's just tired. The show, it's too long, when you have nothing new to say, make it short, make it condensed.

The Adidas logos that being on every garments scream desperate for Hypebeasts money. Another lazy cash grab. I am not ready to seeing this Gucci x Adidas logos everywhere next season.

What I'm really tired with Gucci nowadays is the fact that they are really strategically calculate for success. They go all kind of things to make sure the collection will be the instant hit, but they forget that sometimes just focus on the clothes.
 
Kinda shocked how menswear heavy this was, it can almost qualify as a actual menswear show with some womens looks in between.

I enjoyed quite a lot of it actually. Yes it's same old Gucci but this felt a little more put together and less gimmicky than previous seasons.

I was expecting more from the Adidas collab. Apart those two dresses, the rest of the stuff is pretty lazy.
 
His schtick is really so over. It's so unbelievably predictable. And at a certain point, all the hoopla of the shows starts to feel very silly for what really amounts to absolutely no new news of a collection.

And can we make a single collection these days without a collab????
 
Kinda shocked how menswear heavy this was, it can almost qualify as a actual menswear show with some womens looks in between.

Which to me sounded like the saving grace of this collection and a notable exception to the general rule by which in co-ed shows menswear tend to play second fiddle to womenswear.
 
So this was the menswear collection am I right? Because it barely has any women's clothes in it.
 
It seriously looks like the upcycling project of a very mediocre fashion student using Adidas deadstock, the execution may be good but this is as conceptually barren as they come. I went through all the looks and not a single thing caught my eye.
 
I thought this collection was predictable but good especially seen it live in motion ...For sure i need a couple of suits from the menswear side of things ...
 
Don't you find that this strictly merchandise driven kind of way of designing is getting very boring?

I want a bit of narrative and story telling. I don't need everything to be a total McQueen or Galliano fantasia, but wouldn't it be nice to feel something from a show/collection again? To feel transported somewhere?
 
Alessandro Michele's Gucci has NEVER done it for - ever! And at this rate, I'm convinced Michele needs collaborations with other brands to make his Gucci somewhat covetable and buzz-worthy. Nothing I like or able to remotely tolerate here, whatsoever.

#BRINGBACKFRIDA
 
Don't you find that this strictly merchandise driven kind of way of designing is getting very boring?

I want a bit of narrative and story telling. I don't need everything to be a total McQueen or Galliano fantasia, but wouldn't it be nice to feel something from a show/collection again? To feel transported somewhere?

But that would be <gasp>...designing a whole collection! Which means...hard work!!

Nah! Let´s mix Adidas logo with Gucci name; and just launch another +80 looks collection with random clothes from different decades...
 
Officially this collection was considered a "mens" collection according to Alessandro Michele.

The men’s collection Michele is showing actually began with a vision of Madonna, a uniquely modern Olympian, photographed at a Lakers’ game in 1993 in an Adidas dress by curator Laura Whitcomb, who forged a connection between the art and fashion worlds in the early ‘90s with a label called Label. Michele was mesmerised by the fact this was something happening in the street and under the radar in fashion years ago. And somehow that connected with his love of doing the wrong things in the right way. Hence, a men’s show during women’s fashion week. “I don’t want to say to break the rules because it’s nothing really specific, but I was thinking it was just a good moment to open the conversation about men in a moment when the industry and the audience usually see another kind of show.”

There is another point that Michele particularly wants to make. As a pioneer of gender fluidity in fashion, he has become increasingly dismayed by the way that those words — along with terms like diversity and inclusivity — have increasingly become a marketing tool, an Instagram caption for companies, destroying the power of the words themselves. “I grew up feeling myself a special boy in a different world. But everything I did had a very deep meaning. Diversity is essential, but I want to feel the real meaning of the words.”

Michele reminds me that his epochal first show for Gucci in January 2015 was a men’s show and he wasn’t thinking about “fluidity.” Now as then, he insists he still has a passion for men’s suiting. “That is something that I really love. When I started a collection, I start with the suit, also with women. It’s always about the jacket and the shoulder. So I didn’t start my career thinking about ‘fluidity’, never in my life. I started always with the relation to the face, the body. Attitude.”
BOF
 
About the Adidas partnership:

Now it was Gucci’s turn. Michele introduced a collaboration with Adidas that may be his largest yet, mixing streetwear with Italian sartorial tradition to create elevated track suit suits that should send hype beasts into orbit. Not to mention nudge them to dress up a bit more. If this is a season about power tailoring, Michele figured out how to serve it up to sneakerheads.

“The idea was to break the codes of sportswear,” he said, sharing that the collection will be sold through pop-ups worldwide, which he helped to design.

More than just slapping an Adidas logo on T-shirts and hoodies, as some others have done, Michele mixed the codes of Adidas with those of Gucci, achieving something elevated and elegant, akin to his Balenciaga Hacking Project.

A cornerstone of the collection was a red track dress, inspired by a do-it-yourself Adidas dress made by Los Angeles designer Laura Whitcomb of the ’90s era brand Label, and worn by Madonna in 1993.

“She did something in my blood years ago…and she is now part of my work because I met her in an image,” Michele said. (Whitcomb, now an art curator, was a guest of the house at the show, where she reminisced about blending high and low culture and how that spirit is reverberating on the streets today.)

Also luxe casual was a royal blue corduroy suit, beautifully tailored with broad shoulders, a double-breasted blazer emblazoned with the Adidas trefoil leaf logo on the breast pocket, trousers with the athletic giant’s signature side stripes, worn with a leather necktie and bamboo handbag.

More than sneakers, although there were some of those, too, the trefoil stripes and leaves adorned high-heel brogues and boots, bamboo totes, silk scarves, berets and double-billed baseball hats. They trimmed a green overcoat, a cream mohair ski bunny sweater knit set, and were mixed together with GGs to make a graphic, op-art print. There was even a tricked out Adidas Victorian white satin gown.

“We share the stripes, the webbing — that can’t be too similar,” Michele said, hinting at the possibility that rather than fighting over a trademark, the brands may have joined together, similar to the way Gucci turned Dapper Dan into a collaborator. “We also share the idea of sport that’s chic, and it opened up a conversation,” the designer said.

Gimmicky, maybe, but a lot of it looked really great — and rich, conjuring images of Spike Lee decked out courtside, of Richie Tenenbaum’s sweatband wearing style, IRL stylish sportsmen like Stan Smith and…”Squid Game.”
WWD
 
Whilst Michele might wax lyrical about gender fluidity and how he has an appreciation for menswear suiting, the honest truth is that Kering has a strategic goal of developing the menswear category, as mentioned a few weeks ago at the Kering press conference by Henri-Pinault himself.

"In terms of absolute value, it’s always been very important, but the men's fashion market has grown significantly in the last few years. We think that at Gucci and at Saint-Laurent, there is a very large potential for expanding the menswear offering. We had focused more on womenswear during the maturity stages of the different houses. This was our priority, and it went extremely well. But given what the men's market has become, we think we have a very good growth potential to go after. Balenciaga has benefited from this market in recent years, an experience we’ve had within the group. I believe that in Gucci and Saint Laurent we can significantly rebalance the menswear and womenswear offerings.”
FASHION NETWORK

This collection is a straight-forward [quick] cash grab for that menswear market created by Gucci/Kering in an attempt to reassert their dominance in the menswear market. Look at all those Adidas logos! So LAME. The truth is that Gucci had a really strong menswear market at the beginning of Michele's tenure, but then LVMH re-positioned themselves as a menswear leader in terms of the who they hired: Kim Jones, Virgil Abloh, and Hedi Slimane (and to some extent Matthew Williams).

The bizarre consequence of appointing those menswear designers (Jones at Fendi, Slimane at Celine, Matthew Williams at Givenchy) is that LVMH is not as much of a leader in womenswear as Kering is. Demna, Daniel Lee, Alessandro, Anthony: they are strong and very influential in womenswear.

Personally I can't even view this collection through a lens of creativity because all I see is strategy and business opportunities and ways to increase shareholder dividends. There is nothing creative about this, whatever Michele may say. The honest truth is that he has lost his touch at menswear and this is a clumsy and hype-beasty attempt to reclaim his former glory.
 

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