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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by Atelier, Dec 24, 2003.
Exceedingly well spotted , ATELIER
I noticed this headline on WGSN but was unable to read the full story as I do not have a subscription . I would actually have thought that it should be the other way round - YSL going to Narciso Rodriguez and GUCCI going to Alexander McQueen but either way they are major talents and will give the two houses what they need. I read somewhere recently that Vittorio Radice ( late of Selfridges and now at Marks and Spencer 's Home Furnishing division ) or Rose Marie Bravo of Burberry had been approached to replace Domenico de Sole . Time only will tell .........!
' There's many a slip twixt cup and lip ' as they say .
I just wonder what Pierre Berge and Yves himself will say if Alexander McQueen gets the job at YSL !!! ( Berge seemed to favour Victor& Rolf ) .
narciso is king of the line so i can see gucci evolving in another beautiful direction under narciso...and mcqueen is a good fit for ysl simply because of his history with the house of givenchy.
eager to see what happens...and to see what tom's farewell show will be
I don't think and want Narciso to do Gucci, for two reasons. Firstly because he is fastly becoming a pillar of the New York industry (along with Anna Sui and Marc Jacobs) and is doing great for his line. If he does Gucci he might not be able to devote 100% attention to his label (look at Galliano). Another is because he is too minimal for Gucci. Though one thing in common (with Ford) is they both do sexy clothes but they're both on different pages.
Now McQueen for YSL.. not to sure but it can work. Remember M. Saint Laurent was the first retro designer and Lee can do that. His S/S '04 collection proves that. Which he was inspired by the Depression era. The bad-boyness attitude seems to be gone too based on his last two collections. So it can work.
ooh very excited, although I didn't read the whole article from my personal attitude and opinions of the different designers and houses, I think it could be a good fit. I agree about narciso being quite minimal but maybe he could move the house in a different direction. As well I think it's a test of how good a designer is, if they can design for the house, and not for themselves primarily. I think McQueen has the innovtion that is required at YSL (which Tom Ford lacked IMO) and hopefully will stay true the YSL. We shall see.
Very keen observations from you all,I must say.
I'm not sure really of how this will pan out since McQueen has repeatedly refused to comment much regarding GG, the past few weeks,instead laying to rest the rumours that he was even interested. And how this will affect his signature...seems like he's at an all-time high with his own and with sales. With four very good collections thus far with GG,I just don't know if he would want to spoil the good karma.
Mcqueen for YSL I think it could work out but Narsico for gucci? no
Mcqueen for YSL
There are alot of rumors going on right now so we can't be 100 percent sure until there is a press release from gucci....or something and I think I saw in a few articles that they were questioning tom ford on the opening song because the lyrics were "If you feel that you can't go on" then I think he said you can draw your own conclusions or something
thanks for the wwd article atelier
*i will agree with igni regarding Narciso.
He's finally building up his own brand, and it took him quite long, but he also needs the money and Gucci's glam wont hurt him a bit. Personally I believe Narciso works better fro his own line than for others (see his boring stint at Loewe)
Could he do a good job for Gucci? hmm thats another question, i find him too sophisticated for Gucci -it sounds good, but it could make Gucci lose a certain kind of clients
*mcQueen for ysl? not sure, still why not? if he tries to concentrate on his tailoring and leave theatrics for his own label, he might be quite good for ysl
I find narciouses really boring, he has a few ncie ideas and a few nice pieces wich he repeats EVERY season, and its boring. Mcqueen could do YSl.
Narciso basically does the same dress just in different colours,imo. He doubt he'll be able to accomplish what Tom did AT ALL. Loewe,ineed,Lena
Booo to Tom. His greatest accomplistment at Gucci was making it mainstream. A household name. You never know what narciso might do for Gucci. I think he deserves a chance at least. I haven't liked Gucci's past collections at all and its time for someone new...if narciso sucks, well then he can be replaced too
completely agree...the funny thing about tom's work is that he did such a good job in revitalizing the houses, it would take something like fashion espionage to derail the progress tom has set in place...i agree that narcisco may not be the best fit at gucci but a lot of times designers grow in different directions when given the charge of doing not their own line but living up to a tradition (look at marc at vuitton....he has done things i would have never guessed)...and i think marc is also a great example that one can have two thriving brands one being in new york and one being in paris
but totally agree that narcisco could be our next de la renta...i'd hate to see his american legacy stripped because of the work he'd have to commit to gucci.
Yes,but I think Marc has also got quite lazy in designing his signature since a couple years after taking on LV.
Gucci and Tom Ford=aggression. Something which I think Narciso lacks and will most likely lack once there,if there that is. That's what Tom did and that's what got Gucci in the mainstream. But you never know with PPR they might not be so keen on that aggression(which I am not either) and may in fact want to calm it down a bit. Either way,whilst Narciso may not be the greatest(if in true that he gets the job),it will be nice to see Tom Ford plastered on every fashion headline or every review.
I actually took time out today to unearth a video from FTV of Alexander McQueen's 1998-1999 pret-a-porter collection for GIVENCHY ( The one where Jodie Kidd claps her hands over her head at the finale ) . The tailoring of both fabric and leather in the suits shows the influence of Yves and it really does prompt the thought that , if this rumour turns out to be true , it really could work out for Lee at YSL Rive Gauche !!!
I don't feel really qualified to make a projection about Narciso Rodriguez at Gucci as I have never taken that much of an interest in the label . All I would say is that he does seem to be an enormously gifted designer who did wonders at Cerruti imho . ( Perhaps that label would not be in the parlous state that it is , if he still were there ! ).
God is my typing bad these past couple days!
I doubt,I mean.
Anyhoo,I loved that collection from McQueen,Kit*! Esther DeJong coming out on that horse at the beginning....beautiful cobweb knits and the tailoring you mention was brilliant! It did have a rather YSL feel about it.
NICE to have support SCOTT
We'll have to see what happens ! The WWD article would seem to suggest an announcement PRIOR to the end of the February/March women's collections of the respective houses . PPR would not want a declaration to frighten the horses ( or rather the shareholders ) and as they say , ANY publicity pays dividends eg. the headlines that you refer to .
A lot of people say "Narciso? Sooo boring.. " well that's no surprise because they don't understand what he does and see clearly what he does. If you look closely at his collections there is an evolution of his work like in his S '04 collection you could see the more precision of his tailoring. As seen in an outfit placed over cigarette pants. The lines he used also were more to accentuate the body compared to seasons past.