there is only one -great- look available at the moment
but i think Haider Ackermann deserves our attention
review & photo from wwd
review from fwd
but i think Haider Ackermann deserves our attention
PARIS — After years of young designers wearing the experimental label as a badge, the new wave of talent has forgotten those antics to concentrate on creating feminine, romantic and wearable clothes. This was definitely the case for Haider Ackermann, the Colombian-born designer who calls Antwerp, Belgium, home. Though he has shown promise in the past, this was his most accomplished show. Masculine tailored pantsuits came with interesting metallic sequin decorations, while a raccoon-tail top illustrated the designer’s rich imagination. Twisting silk jersey dresses and the silver floating silk dress that closed the show showed a move into more feminine territory.
review & photo from wwd
One young designer creating a buzz in Paris is Haider Ackermann and, judging from the collection he presented Tuesday afternoon, that attention is more than merited.
Ackermann, a Colombian raised in France who studied at AntwerpÕs famed fashion school, has a creative tailoring technique, excellent sense of fabrics and appreciation for a womanÕs body that, all combined, makes for some great clothes.
In the age of the celebrity Haider probably wonÕt become famous until some bold face name collects an award in his clothes. But those obsessed with what is new in fashion should check out this talent.
Ackermann showed a series of menÕs suits in unusual fabrics and colors Ð ruby red satin, gray wool with chalk stripes made of sequins - which had real class and pizzazz. He cut them close but not uncomfortably to the body, with their collars displaying exact saddle stitching.
"For me a manÕs suit is sexy on a woman. I donÕt think sexy is shoving everything out," Ackermann explained post show to FWD, gesturing with his hands to suggest an exposed skimpy dress.
He also presented excellent felt suits with military jackets and below the knee flared culottes, refined shirtings worn with a hint of raffia at the waist and clever and cool peg leg pants.
It was far from all perfect. His knits, though occasionally subtle and protective, had a few clangers, like a baggy blood orange cardigan that was a bit of a horror. And the skinny teenage boy silhouette, back lighting and finale where all the models appeared en mass, too closely recalled the styling of a Hedi Slimane show as several French critics were quick to remark.
review from fwd
