Haider Ackermann S/S 2018 Paris | the Fashion Spot

Haider Ackermann S/S 2018 Paris

Sorry but it's like the Lanvin / Ungaro show to me. No sensations, risks, modernity....

Most of the looks are beyond basic, even tacky and dated.

I used to adore his work; but i was a decade ago when there was some drama in it with bold bias cut and body explorations.

I'm getting a cheap Mugler ss12 vibe sometimes.
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Everyone is thinking commercial, wearable separates.
Everyone is thinking saleable "wardrobe", and that's what we get.
 
A bit lazy even if i love Haider. There's nothing fun or exciting. It is a good collection of basics (for him) i would say. The real fashion element here might be the drama of the presentation.
 
I am being thrilled and interested by Haider less and less.
 
Add some Lanvin logos; and this could be part of Lapidus debut collection. So basic!
 
it's definitely spare for haider
but i like the rich gothic colour pallet
that deep red is gorgeous
 
It's not as good as it could be, it's much less imaginative and well executed than previous shows. It's very commercial and "safe". It's not for me, but I do like the deep red colour used at the beginning.
 
If only he didn't have that random yellow look and those gold pieces.
 
Clearly not his most imaginative collection, but still crazy good to me. The burgundy colors are delicious, and his tailoring is impeccable as always. I just love how even his simplest clothes, like that sequin white shirt with metalic gold pants, has so much attitude in it and would make any woman look like the coolest person in the room.
 
It's clearly a safe collection but comparing Haider to Lapidus' mess at Lanvin is laughable. This is still miles above 90 per cent of the collections we've seen so far in terms of sophistication, cut and execution.
 
Predictable. Not particularly interesting. And worst of all, I just don't get any impression of what he is trying to say with this collection?

To be honest, his most recent collection for Berluti was miles more compelling, gorgeous, attractive and aspirational than what we're seeing here.
 
This is a hard no for me. Virtually nothing about this collection says "Haider Ackermann" because virtually none of his signatures are in evidence. Those cutout and twisted/blocked pieces are lacking finesse and, at this point, cliched. The color palette is nowhere near the level of sophistication I expect from him. There's no real movement in the clothes. None of that tension between strictness and softness. All in all it looks like the work of a newer, less experienced designer -- vague in its personality and lacking any real guts.

I adore Haider's whole aesthetic and have for years and years, but in this case I'll call a spade a spade.
 
This collection leans much further towards a Narciso Rodriguez customer, with the crisp contrast colour facings and beautifully cut shapes.
Though his jacquard and satin collections are some of the most beautiful and wearable in recent years, I also love this pared-down side of Haider Ackermann.
 

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