I know he has been trying to diversify his proposals with colour but, lately, I think he is a master of black like Yohji and Ann. Like those two, his designs not only translate better in black (the laser cuts look cheap on the yellow jacket) but also look more sophisticated and sharp with his trademark sleek tailoring. I would prefer if he kept the colour experiences for the lighter garments like tops and soft silks. Talking about silks, somehow the silks here don't look as luxurious as his previous offerings...
It looks better than his previous fall collection (which was a trainwreck, in my opinion) but still not as beautiful as his early work. I do miss his leather and sexy post-apocalyptic outerwear. Even the silk dresses. He was the perfect link between Rick Owens, Tom Ford and Ann Demeulemeester. And back then he made earth colours like brown and dark red look like a million bucks... probably the only designer to make me like brown, ever. I don't think he will successfully sell me lime or yellow.