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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by vogue28, Sep 29, 2018.
For some reason this is closer to what I expected from the « New Celine ». Obviously, it’s very calm and subtle, very Haider but this is the type of fresh skinny silhouette that I wanted from Hedi.
This might be Haider’s most commercial collection ever but it’s very clever. He can literally attract that Berluti customer but with more edge.
The womenswear is very pragmatic but it will speak to the buyers.
I love the cold atmosphere..
Beautiful prints and textures.
Commercial is great when it’s so perfectly and cleverly executed. I don’t see a single thing I wouldn’t want in my wardrobe.
God I wish I could dress in full Haider Ackermann / Berluti by HA and to mix it with my Céline pieces. So chic, so timeless, so luxurious, not pretentious, pure beauty.
Throwing my body and bank account at the menswear immediately. This is gorgeous ! Love the womenswear, too !
He never disappoints. It's perfection. I'm drooling.
I’m swooning over that coat on Adut.
Absolutely stunning, love the dash of tropical citrus. What a much needed palette cleanser after Celine.
Pure perfection, amazing as always
It looks so simple, so effortless... and yet so rich, so beautiful, so right.
so clean and classy... with sex appeal! the dreamers & bright young things
bit disappointed by this, it's quite dull it's quite dries van noted in the colour palette
Love it. Love it even more in the season of disappointing debuts (Riccardo / Hedi...).
Liya's look is
I pretty much like everything except the prints he chose. Those elements on the border of the pieces doesn't look great at all. There's also one full look with psychedelic/3D print in b&w which doesn't sit well, yet the actual pieces look beyond stunning.
I do think it's tight and well-cut collection as a whole, but maybe a more defined colour direction would've amplified this. I'm confused by the pastel blue to heavier burgundy, bright yellow then abruptly to apple, lime, and olive green.
You can definitely tell he improved his tailoring skills during the time of his brief Berluti gig, which is great news for his own label - His previous jackets looked like he had a women's pattern cutter make menswear which made me think it was all good in theory but missing the sophisticated cut that is so much the strength of a designer like Hedi Slimane's tailoring.
That being said, I agree that some of the patterns and colors are a bit crass - Perhaps it's the flatness of the textiles, in this case I get a similarly cold vibe as from Raf Simons' color experiments at Jil Sander or now at Calvin Klein - With Haider you want a little bit more of the sensuality and warmth, this is missing to me here.
On a side note - those kaftan shirts worn throughout the collection are really lovely.
I know he has been trying to diversify his proposals with colour but, lately, I think he is a master of black like Yohji and Ann. Like those two, his designs not only translate better in black (the laser cuts look cheap on the yellow jacket) but also look more sophisticated and sharp with his trademark sleek tailoring. I would prefer if he kept the colour experiences for the lighter garments like tops and soft silks. Talking about silks, somehow the silks here don't look as luxurious as his previous offerings...
It looks better than his previous fall collection (which was a trainwreck, in my opinion) but still not as beautiful as his early work. I do miss his leather and sexy post-apocalyptic outerwear. Even the silk dresses. He was the perfect link between Rick Owens, Tom Ford and Ann Demeulemeester. And back then he made earth colours like brown and dark red look like a million bucks... probably the only designer to make me like brown, ever. I don't think he will successfully sell me lime or yellow.