Has the buying spree started again with LVMH, PPR, and Richemont?

mikeijames

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for those of us who have followed these things for some years, we remember the exciting times ten years ago when the lvmh and ppr (née the gucci group) and richemont (and the list goes on to include everyone from prada to hermes) defined much of the luxury landscape by scooping up fashion houses. well, it seems that those times of acquisitions may have started up again. first, we have the rather surprising news that lvmh owns nearly a 15% stake in hermes and rumors swirling they may acquire rodarte. second, we have PPR selling off some of its retail operations to free up cash for acquiring some brands to bolster their "sporting" division. finally, you have richemont (owners of cartier, chloe, and so many others) making a great buy with a huge investment in net-a-porter.com.

so WHO ELSE is ripe for the picking? what is the next storied european house set for revitalization? who will become the next household name like stella mccartney or marc jacobs? what fashion-y site might become the next nowness.com or net-a-porter.com?

market pulse

Oct. 23, 2010, 2:13 p.m. EDT
LVMH says it controls 14.2% of Hermes

By William Spain

CHICAGO (MarketWatch) -- Luxury goods giant LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, said Saturday that it holds just over 15 million shares - or 14.2% -- of Hermes International. The company noted that its objective is to "be a long-term shareholder of Hermes and to contribute to the preservation of the family and French attributes which are at the heart of the global success of this iconic brand" and has "no intention of launching a tender offer, taking control of Hermes" nor trying for representation on Hermes board of directors.
(source: marketwatch.com)

Buy Rodarte * 8/27/10 at 1:20 PM

LVMH executives have been spotted front-row at Rodarte shows for seasons, and they always rave over the label. LVMH CEO Pierre-Yves Roussel sat front-row last season, and said he "loved what they do." Buying Rodarte would be an unusual move for the conglomerate, which generally favors old, established brands over emerging talent. However, Rodarte's clothes certainly fit in, price-wise, with other things under the LVMH umbrella. [Vogue UK]
(source: nymag.com)

Bloomberg
Puma to Become Main Brand of PPR’s New Sport Unit
October 18, 2010, 12:10 PM EDT
By Holger Elfes

Oct. 18 (Bloomberg) -- Puma AG, Europe’s second-largest sporting-goods maker, will become the main brand of a new sports and lifestyle unit at PPR SA, the French parent company’s Chief Executive Officer Francois-Henri Pinault said.

PPR, based in Paris, will acquire more sporting-goods and leisure brands to make the division a “second pillar” of the company next to its luxury business, Pinault said on a conference call today. PPR will start making acquisitions only after it has sold “one or two” of the retail businesses that it has earmarked for sale, he said.

PPR, which bought a majority stake in Puma in 2007, has said it wants to sell its Fnac, Redcats and Conforama units and use the proceeds for acquisitions. The company plans to focus on its luxury-goods division, which includes the Gucci brand, and the sports and lifestyle business, which will be bigger in terms of sales, according to Pinault.

“We will focus on complementary and not on competing brands to Puma,” Pinault said, declining to say which companies PPR will target or how much money it plans to spend. PPR may also use some money for luxury-goods acquisitions, he said.

Puma will convert into a Societas Europaea, and Chief Executive Officer Jochen Zeitz will become executive chairman, the Herzogenaurach, Germany-based company said today. Shareholders will vote at April’s annual meeting on the change of corporate form and the company will seek a new CEO. Zeitz, 47, will remain CEO until a replacement is found, Puma said.

Purchase of Puma

PPR owns 71.6 percent of Puma’s stock, Pinault said today, adding that the sporting-goods maker will remain a listed company. PPR paid 330 euros a share in 2007 to gain a brand that straddles the line between sporting goods and fashion.

Puma shares fell 7.55 euros, or 2.9 percent, to 252 euros as of the 5:30 p.m. close of trading in Frankfurt, after rising as much as 2.9 percent before the announcement.

Zeitz joined PPR’s board in 2007 without a precisely defined post. He was named head of Puma in 1993, becoming Germany’s youngest CEO at a traded company. He is the longest serving CEO of a company in the DAX or MDAX indexes.

Under Zeitz, Puma’s sales have risen about twelvefold from 210 million euros in the year he joined. The executive wants to make Puma the world’s “most desirable” sports brand and will announce some changes to strategy on Oct. 27 as part of its so- called “Phase IV Revisited” program. The initiative aims to boost annual revenue to more than 4 billion euros ($5.55 billion) by 2015 from last year’s 2.46 billion euros.

Zeitz has expanded the business into new sports. Puma acquired Fortune Brands Inc.’s Cobra golf label in the second quarter. The company in 2007 became a sponsor of the Volvo Ocean Race yacht competition, in which it also entered a boat.

--Editors: Paul Jarvis, David Risser.

To contact the reporters on this story: Holger Elfes in Dusseldorf at [email protected].

To contact the editor responsible for this story: Celeste Perri at [email protected]

(source: businessweek.com)
 
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At first I wasn't too pleased when I heard about LVMH controling a part of Hermès but I've to say that their comment made me feel a bit better.
 
surprised that LVMH owns so much of Hermes, but as long as it doesn't award them a seat on the board, we have nothing to worry about.

and the investment of Richemont to net-a-porter is also the reason why there is a men's site in the pipelines.
 
lvmh raises the stakes....:ninja:

LVMH Looks Like It May Buy More of Hermès * 10/28/10 at 12:30 PM

Hermès requires anyone who buys over 15 percent of their share capital to make a statement of intent, so LVMH, which acquired 17.1 percent of Hermès's stock last week, did so yesterday. While LVMH claimed that they have no intention of taking control of Hermès International or making a public offer in the next six months, they omitted any statements ruling out buying more shares. The Hermès family says they have a “unanimous will to maintain long-term control of the company," and still owns 71 percent of its stock. [WWD]

By: Charlotte Cowles; Filed Under: herme$, hermes, lvmh

(source: nymag.com)
 
An interesting article on how LVMH acquired 17.5% shareholding in Hermès.

If you haven't been living under a rock for the past week, you would have heard that lvmh, parent company of louis vuitton, acquired 17.1% shareholding of fellow french luxury goods makers, hermès. i wanted to blog about it at the first instance, but many questions were unanswered until today, when lvmh officially filed a report on how the shareholdings built up. some of the burning questions i had:

- how did lvmh acquire the shares at about €80 whereas it is trading around €160 now?
- how did lvmh build up such a significant shareholding without anyone knowing?

i hope the below will help to answer the above questions. i try to make it as simple and interesting as possible. i find the story so fascinating as it unravels. we talk about heritage and buying into a brand, i think it's nice to have a little more understanding into their activities.


* example in fictional prices:
v6loc2.jpg



i drew the above diagram at lunchtime yesterday. yes, some of my colleagues read hello magazine, i draw pictures at lunch. using the above simple example, it should help to illustrate how lvmh managed to buy shares at hermès for cheaper than current market value.

back in 2008, lvmh entered into a contract with bank A which will last/mature for three years to 2011. lvmh agrees to pay $75 (based on price of 1 hermès share in 2008) plus $5 as fees to the bank. when the contract matures in 2011, the bank will pay lvmh $75 plus the difference in share price between 2008 and 2011. if share price in 2011 is $200, the bank will pay lvmh $75 + $125 profit. money will only exchange hands in 2011, and up to this point no one bought any hermès shares, they are merely using hermès as a derivative.

from the bank's perspective, they will lose out if the price of hermès shares rise to $200 in 2011, as they will need to fork out the extra $125. bank A therefore buys 1 share in hermès back in 2008 for $75 (using the $75 that lvmh will pay in 2011, so no net outlay for the bank). holding this share since 2008, the bank will then pass on any movement in shareprice to lvmh in 2011. the bank therefore is in a riskless position. how do they make money? bank A earns the $5 fee which was agreed.

however in october 2010, lvmh and bank A amended the contract. instead of receiving $200 in 2011, which let's assume is the market value of 1 hermès share, the bank will give lvmh the 1 hermès share instead. in monetary terms, it is the same as that share is worth $200. but the agreement was for lvmh to pay $80 in 2011, therefore lvmh managed to buy 1 hermès share in 2011 for $80. the downside for lvmh would be if shares in hermès plummets in 2011.

now just imagine the agreement back in 2008, but on a much grander scale.

and talk about surprising your competitor, hermès was informed only an hour before lvmh issued a public press release that they now own 17.1% of their company. how did lvmh or bank A build up such a big shareholding without anyone knowing, since regulations require one to disclose if you have 5% or more shareholding at anytime. surely bank A needs to disclose this information when they bought hermès shares in 2008?

the clever or crafty thing is, in 2008 lvmh entered into similar contracts with three different banks, each with contract values just slightly below 5% of hermès shareholdings. therefore nobody needs to disclose anything, and no one breaks the law. assuming each contract is worth about 4.9% of hermès shareholdings, that only brings lvmh up to 14.7%. where's the other bit to bring them up to 17.1%? it was suggested that lvmh already owns shares in hermès but below the 5% reporting threshold.

analysts call this a "stealth build-up", normally a method associated with aggressive takeovers. porsche's recent takeover of volkswagen was of a similar method.



* in very high level summary

in 2008 lvmh entered into contracts to receive cash/shares three years later but fixed at 2008 prices. there were contracts with three banks, each with contract values just below 5% of hermès shareholdings so nothing needs to be disclosed, and hermès kept in the dark.



* what now?

assuming lvmh did not amend the contracts and they agree to take cash settlement from bank A in 2011, lvmh will not need to pay anything but receive $125 in cash (less $5 bank fee initially agreed). to now receive hermès shares, lvmh will need to pay $80 to bank A.

in real life, lvmh needs to pay €1.45 billion for hermès shares. does lvmh really have that much cash washing around? analysts suggested that lvmh might sell their champagne division, the "moet-hennesy" side of the business. the champagne division wasn't doing well in recent years (recession, less people popping champagne or drinking fine wine) so it could be that lvmh wanted to get rid of this division. with the markets picking up now, they should be able to fetch a better price, and the sale proceeds will in turn be used to acquire shares in hermès.

will lvmh be able to acquire more than 50% shares in hermès? 70% of hermès shares are privately held (ie not traded in public), and it was suggested that over 40 family members own these 70% shareholdings. private deals will need to be negotiated if lvmh wanted to buy more shares from some of the 40 hermès/duma family members. how united is this family?

and are there anymore contracts we don't know about with other banks for cash settlements in future but could potentially be exchanged for more shares instead?

hope you are still awake at this point. i find this deal to be totally fascinating, this could be the high fashion drama of our generation. the lvmh/ppr/gucci saga in the 90s was admittedly a little before my time. it's easy for me to comment on the outside, but there must be tensions and tantrums and turmoils behind their closed doors.

i don't think we've heard the last about this story. is someone already writing a script? this is going to be a summer blockbuster.

- 00oo00.BLOGSPOT.COM
 
yeah, Joe's blog entry is very interesting...

that means LVMH owns more than half of what is publicly traded. scary.

i don't HATE LVMH, but i don't fully trust them either. there were only reports about how the quality of some of their houses' products declined since LVMH took charge...
 
Well, I think companies are thinking about growth again and you can only have that if you build a new brand or buy one. Though the Hermes situation looks like it's been a very planned aqquistion. Arnault has wanted that saddle maker for a while and he'll take his time getting it.

I think we'll see a few other designers go big and sell their house. But for some reason, I feel like the talent pool is so much smaller than it was 10 years ago. There are no McQueens, Ghesquires, or Theyskens roaming about.
 
Well, I think companies are thinking about growth again and you can only have that if you build a new brand or buy one. Though the Hermes situation looks like it's been a very planned aqquistion. Arnault has wanted that saddle maker for a while and he'll take his time getting it.

I think we'll see a few other designers go big and sell their house. But for some reason, I feel like the talent pool is so much smaller than it was 10 years ago. There are no McQueens, Ghesquires, or Theyskens roaming about.

but theyskens was floating about. he got snatched up by andrew rosen's theory. i suspect a lot of acquisitons are about to happen if they're considering something as major as selling off the entire fine wines and spirits divison!

ditto ppr selling off their retail interests. one wonders if hermes would've kept gaultier under lvmh stewardship. and doesn't hermes own gaultier? so it's like a two-fer.

also, all of this is quite interesting when one considers the whispers about prada going public....could they get snatched up by one of these conglomerates?
 
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and to think Prada used to be the one buying, 10 years ago...

but LVMH selling off their booze division would leave them with only LV.

and PPR without Redcats would be only PP. since La Redoute is part of Redcats...

big changes ahead of us?
 
very true, but i think they could adjust their respective letterheads to accomodate Marc Jacobs and Hermes, in the first case, and PRada, in the second case.
 
they don't own enough H yet and MJ isn't huge enough to warrant such attention. :lol:

and if PP would acquire Prada, they'd be PPPR. or PPP. or Px3. hell i know.

the thing with LVMH is that it's 3 old french companies with lots of tradition coming together in their fight to increase profit margins. if they kick out 2 of them, they'd need another 2 french companies with tradition to replace them.

also, financially people are supposed to diversify their portfolio, not something LVMH would be doing...
 
This is just in: the Hermès family asked Bernard Arnault to (i don't really now what's the correct word for that but) give up the parts he acquired in Hermès. Bertrand Puech even said "if you want to be friendly Mr Arnault, please step down". I wish I could translate the whole article which is very interesting but it's 8.30AM and I'm off to Law school :lol:

Here's the link in case you can translate on your own: http://www.lexpansion.com/economie/hermes-demande-a-lvmh-de-se-retirer-de-son-capital_241859.html
 
this blurb from reuters.com makes it more clear:

LVMH (LVMH.PA) Executives of luxury group Hermes are asking the head of LVMH, Bernard Arnault, to withdraw from the family-owned company. Patrick Thomas and Bertrand Puech told Le Figaro LVMH's purchase of a 17 percent stake had come as a big surprise.
if mr. arnault wanted to be friendly, he wouldn't have acquired such a stake so clandestinely in the first place. the hermes family should count themselves lucky that they're actually doing so well so that the family members don't feel the need to cash in their shares in the same way some other family-owned firms must.

the versace, prada, and missoni families better take note! theaustralian.com reports that a family quarrel presented this opening to lvmh to POUNCE.

Family quarrel opened Hermes to raid
by Adam Sage
  • From: The Times
  • October 25, 2010 7:42AM
DISSENSION within the family that controls Hermes has allowed Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton to snap up a 14.2 per cent stake, analysts said.

Although Bernard Arnault, the billionaire owner of LVMH, the luxury goods group, denied that he intended to take a majority stake French silk scarf to handbag group, it is thought that he will be tempted to seek control of the highly profitable business in the medium, if not the short term.

This belief added to speculation that Mr Arnault, France's richest man, might be prepared to sell his 66 per cent stake in Moet Hennessy, the drinks arm of his empire, to Diageo, of Britain, to finance the acquisition of Hermes.

The rumours were fuelled by a source close to LVMH, who told the French press that the company's objective was to prevent Hermes from falling into non-French hands.

The implication was that some of the 50 or so members of the Dumas family, who together have a 72 per cent stake in the company, might be prepared to sell. They are descendants of Thierry Hermes, the 19th century founder of the business.

Although Patrick Thomas, the chief executive of Hermes, insists that the Dumas family is united, talk of splits has swirled through Paris since the death in May of Jean-Louis Dumas, the chairman of the company from 1978 to 2006.

LVMH, which wants to raise its stake to 17.1 per cent through the conversion of derivatives, said that the total cost of the holding was €1.45 billion ($2.05bn)). This suggests that Mr Arnault paid less than half the market price for the shares, which closed at €176.2 on Friday.

French news outlets speculated at the weekend that LVMH could have acquired a stake of that size only from the Dumas family.

LVMH said in a statement that it "fully supports the strategy implemented by the founding family and the management team, who have made the brand one of the jewels of the luxury industry. LVMH has no intention of launching a tender offer, taking control of Hermes, nor of seeking boardroom representation."

But that failed to dampen talk of a takeover.

Matthew Jordan, head of research at Matrix Group, said: "It would be unusual for a company to take a 14 per cent stake without wanting to take control of the rest of the business in the fullness of time."

He said that a bid for Hermes might prompt Mr Arnault to dispose of his holding in Moet Hennessy, which owns brands including Moet & Chandon champagne.

"It would make sense for LVMH to merge Moet Hennessy into Diageo because the distribution channel for the two companies is almost identical," Mr Jordan said.

He added that the deal would make "huge sense" for the Diageo group by extending its presence in Asia, reducing costs and re-establishing the British company as a clear leader in the global wine and spirits market.

Hermes, founded 173 years ago as a saddlemaker, has led the luxury goods industry out of the financial crisis, reporting a 55 per cent increase in first-half profits to €194.6 million. Its Birkin bag is an international bestseller carried by celebrities such as Victoria Beckham, Oprah Winfrey and the actress Katie Holmes.

They cost between ₤1000 ($1500) to ₤50,000.

LVMH this month reported a 24 per cent increase in third-quarter sales compared with the same period last year.

Sales of leatherware goods such as Louis Vuitton's ₤435 Speedy or the ₤1190 Brea GM handbags rose by 26 per cent, boosted by demand from Chinese consumers.
 
Its funny how even outside the fashion world, and by that I mean bussiness and stock .. ppl go crazy for Hermes ... I do think he will eventually get it, though if I was a heir to the Hermes legacy Id hold to it and fight it til the end ...

The biggest question ... whats with the "trying to keep Hermes in french hands?" who is this mystery outside bidder .. if there is one ... does anyone know more about it?
 
Hermes rejects LVMH foray, luxury battle in offing

PARIS (AFP) – Hermes rejected on Wednesday "an attack" on its capital by luxury goods giant LVMH, sounding the start of what could become a bitter battle for control of one of France's most iconic brands.
The head of LVMH, Bernard Arnault announced he had bought 17 percent of his rival Hermes, insisting that this does not herald a hostile takeover but that he simply wanted to become a "friendly" long-term shareholder.
"If you want to be friendly, Mr Arnault, you should withdraw," retorted Hermes executives Bertrand Puech and Patrick Thomas, in an interview with Wednesday's edition of French daily Le Figaro.
The pair alleged Arnault's tactics in taking the stake were questionable and said they hoped the financial services watchdog would investigate.
"This entry has nothing friendly about it. It was neither wanted nor asked for," said Thomas, as Puech complained that he had had barely one hours notice from Arnault before LVMH released a statement confirming its purchase.
"When you look at the structures that allowed this attack to take place, we see that they are LVMH subsidiaries based in Luxembourg, the United States and Panama, which is not the most transparent country," Thomas said.
Both executives said that Arnault's move would do nothing to change the culture at Hermes, and noted that he had not asked for a seat on the board.
"We're artisans, our goal is to make the best products in the world. We're not in luxury, we're in quality," Puech told Le Figaro.
Puech is a fifth-generation heir of Hermes' founder Emile Hermes, while Thomas is the family owned firm's manager. Family members still control the 73 percent of the firm not in LVMH chief executive and chairman Arnault's hands.
LVMH, or Louis-Vuitton Moet Hennessy, is a French holding company and the world's largest luxury goods group, specialising in wines and spirits, fashion and leather goods, perfumes, watches and jewelry.
It owns more than 50 global brands, including marques such as Christian Dior perfumes, Glenmorangie whisky, Givenchy fashion and TAG Hauer watches.
The group made a 1.1-billion-euro (1.5-billion-dollar) profit in the first quarter, up 53 percent on the year with sales up 16 percent to nine billion.
Hermes is a French fashion house that has branched into perfume and luxury goods. Smaller than LVMH, it nonetheless also saw profits up 55 percent in the first quarter, on sales of 1.07 billion euros.
The luxury goods industry has seen much consolidation in recent years, and there has been speculation about the fate of Hermes since the death in May of its charismatic former manager Jean-Louis Dumas.
Asked whether other family members might be tempted to sell their stakes in the firm, now that speculation over a hostile bid had pushed the shares to record levels, Puech insisted Hermes remained a better long-term bet.

news.yahoo.com
 
So is Hermes looking at a potential hostile takeover by Arnault/LVMH?

Yikes. This will be interesting.
 
this reminds me SO MUCH -- and i mean, SO MUCH -- of when lvmh tried to take gucci. lest we all forget, the gucci group got born out of a struggle to keep gucci out of lvmh hands. back then, they used prada to do some of their dirty work, if i recall correctly.
 
here's an article from the independent.co.uk

August 22, 1999
Prada steals march on Gucci in fashion war
By SUSANNAH FRANKEL AND MICHELE PUCCIONI

IF THE much-publicised rivalry between Armani and Versace was the Italian fashion story that dominated the Eighties, the nineties have been all about Prada and Gucci.

These labels are now worldwide multi-million-dollar, empires, seen on everything from perfume to handbags to shoes in their efforts to outflank their rivals. Yet the name of each company is the same as that of the family behind the label, and their struggle to come out on top of all the others would be familiar to any student of Italian medieval history - for Prada and Gucci, you could read Montague and Capulet. All are based in Milan which, beneath its glitzy veneer, is a typical small Italian town where dynasties and family allegiances run deep.

Even in August, traditionally the month when the fashion industry shuts up shop and heads for the coast, Prada was setting its sights on world domination. Last week the group, with sales of more than $1bn (pounds 625m) and stores across the globe, entered the genteel world of traditional British shoe-making by taking an 8.5 per cent stake in Church & Co, purveyor of footwear to the Prince of Wales. It was also reported that the company was moving in on Jil Sander, Germany's most aspirational designer tag, paying $109m (pounds 68m) for a 52 per cent stake. (Sander herself denied any such claim.)
Prada's interest in Church's is just the latest in a series of acquisitions which began last summer, when the company discreetly amassed a 9.5 stake in arch-rival Gucci. It later sold that stake on to French luxury goods conglomerate Louis Vuitton/Moet Hennessey (LVMH ) for a $120m (pounds 75m) profit, the proceeds of which went towards forming an alliance with Austrian-born uber-designer, Helmut Lang.

The family nature of the business can be seen in the Milan mansion of Miuccia Prada and her husband Patrizio Bertelli, where, despite the expensive contemporary art on the walls, children charge noisily about. But the couple are acquiring a reputation as the most ferociously motivated business people in world fashion. Bertelli, the business brains behind the Prada dynasty, is said to control the running of the company to the point where he monitors the distance between phones and keyboards on employees' desks. For her part, Miuccia oversees the design of Prada as well as the younger Miu Miu line and is the all-important front person for both labels.

Like Armani and Versace before them, Prada and Gucci could not be more different. When American designer Tom Ford took the helm of Gucci in 1995, he created the rock chick's label of choice. Gucci is overtly sexy, supremely glamorous and screamingly expensive - the label favoured by "It Girls" the world over.

Prada demonstrates a more dowdy aesthetic: discreet luxury, often subtly embellished with arts and crafts finishing, aimed at a woman who would rather not wear her wealth on her sleeve but is just as monied as her more flashy Gucci sister. Both, however, are equally influential: the British high street would be in a sorry state were it not for the Gucci and/or Prada spin-offs that fill the rails from Warehouse to Marks & Spencer.
Just like LVMH, whose chairman, Bernard Arnault, is regarded as the Rupert Murdoch of fashion, Prada is continually broadening its interests. The husband-and-wife team have put money into contemporary art through the Prada Foundation in Milan's affluent Via Spartaco. Bertelli is also keenly involved with Luna Rossa, the Prada yacht, currently heading towards New Zealand and January's Americas Cup. Prada has invested $40m (pounds 25m)in the challenge, which would be amply repaid if it won, through publicity for its already hugely successful Prada Sport line, worn by all Luna Rossa crew members.
The Prada label has come a long way since Miuccia's grandfather started out making leather shoes and belts in the provincial village of Levanelle, near Arezzo, in 1913. In typical Italian dynasty style, the production core of the company is still based there. In March the construction of a 60,000 square metre building to make room for a further 150 members of staff was announced.

Miuccia herself began designing accessories for the house in the late Seventies, having completed a degree in politics and a brief spell working for Italy's Communist Party. By the beginning of the Nineties the Prada bag, crafted in simple black nylon but boasting the discreet Prada logo etched on to a black metal triangle, was a must-have from the streets of Manhattan to the beaches of Rimini, where a nice line in fakes continues to sell like hot cakes to this day.

A small but perfectly formed clothing line, first for women, then men, followed. Prada is now worn by everyone from Nicole Kidman and Sigourney Weaver to Meg Matthews and Patsy Kensit. On a less obviously glamorous note, the company also provided the suits for the all-conquering Manchester United team earlier this year.
 
^Thank you for that. It's interesting for me because I hadn't been following fashion at that time.
 

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