Hedi Slimane Is The New Artistic Director Of Céline

Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by dodencebt, Jan 21, 2018.

  1. Lola701

    Lola701 Well-Known Member

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    I would lie to you if I tell you that I know of his Celine can survive without that one product or category that will drive the sales...

    It’s not like the runway shows are creating a common desire. I enjoyed his second womenswear collection but it was time to buy, suddenly, the desire was not that strong.

    I think that ultimately, contrary to what the majority of his fans thinks, a renewal or a refresh of aesthetic was needed on his part. His Celine will always be a less achieved version of everything he did before. The jeans and sneakers were better at Dior Homme, the womenswear was more eye-catching at YSL. The other day I re saw his first introduction YSL campaign with Anja Rubik and it was sleek and desirable.

    Maybe the logos are the pieces that will drive the sales. I saw a very chic shirt with the « Sulky » embroidered à la Ralph Lauren. It was chic and a little bit more subtle than the big « CELINE » on entry-level priced items.

    The magic of his Dior Homme was that it did appeal to different types of men. When you look at FW2004, it does not scream rocker!?

    Maybe his womenswear should be more ok the vain of his menswear: a lot of tailoring. I don’t know a lot of women who wears prairie dresses on a daily basis...

    The irony is that the perfume line (as I’ve always said) is the most achieved and maybe honest part of his Celine. The 16 bag is good but it’s not a status symbol. A bag had to be cool first before becoming a classic...

    Maybe it’s also time for him to expose himself slightly more. He is doing « service minimum » now...
     
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  2. THD96

    THD96 Well-Known Member

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    I'm more interesting about Hedi career after Celine tbh. He can't obviously go back to Keeping. I wonder will his relationship with Arnault will affect by the lukewarm result of his tenure. What LVMH brands can they can give him now? Dior is already secured for Kim Jones. Maybe LV but idk if Bernard will give his crown jewel for Hedi. What brands can afford him and allow him to turn the brand 160°. Hermes & Chanel maybe. But the last thing the Paris fashion need is these types of clothes with the Chanel pricetags.
     
  3. Kimihiro

    Kimihiro Member

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    Honestly it’s my big problem with his Celine, it’s dry and not desirable. It lacks, for the lack of a better word, the sex appeal that both his Dior Homme and YSL exuded. It’s all too stuffy.


    Lately I was thinking that he would be perfect for Armani, if only those diffusion lines don’t exists because I’m pretty sure he abhors them. At least with that label he could afford to take it slow and repeat things. Even then, he really needs to go beyond rock and roll. It’s not going to work for bigger houses which probably he’s gunning. Pretty sure he wants that Chanel job.
     
  4. bc collector

    bc collector Well-Known Member

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    Pretty sure the Wertheimers are giving him the middle finger.
     
  5. Lola701

    Lola701 Well-Known Member

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    He will probably go back to photography. Bernard Arnault and Sydney Toledano are the only people in fashion who loves him enough to give total control over one of their brand.

    Even if he wants Chanel. He will never have that level of control. Karl, with all his Power never succeed in having control of all Chanel. The same for Hermès.

    And tbh, like @bc collector said, I’m sure at Rue Cambon (and Faubourg Saint Honore), nobody is checking for him.

    Unlike Bernard Arnault and Francois Pinault, the Weirthemers and Dumas inherited from those fashion houses. Nobody wants to have Hedi come and destroy everything...
     
  6. bc collector

    bc collector Well-Known Member

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    ^^^Further to the above:
    I'm sure Hedi at some point must have dreamt about Le grand coup, that of putting his fingers on the sacred Trimurti of French couture, but, alas, I'm afraid his momentum has passed for good.
    Even supposing Karl put a good word for him, his lukewarm stint at Celine has put a nail on the coffin of his ambitions.
    And, let's face it, Chanel has a serious and diverse customer base in RTW, most of them have no taste for dressing like cheap tarts: they would probably throw his stupid, sequined logo tees back at his face.

    And, last but not least, Chanel is a couture house at heart and they have (supposedly demanding) clients for that too: judging from what Hedi did at the pompously resuscitated SL couture salon, his technical skills are a tad poor to be up for the task.
     
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  7. Lola701

    Lola701 Well-Known Member

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    Who says diverse also says tackiness. I’ve seen women at shows wear more visually offensive pieces than those logos tees. Ok, sometimes it was fun to see a commitment to runway looks but seeing grown women in plastic boots and coats was tacky, ridiculous and quite stupid...Even done by my beloved Karl.

    Hedi’s contribution to logomania is not huge. It’s disappointing but he hasn’t decided to give us something that would be desirable for a large audience.

    I’m still waiting for him to give us something à la Dior Homme FW2006. Timeless and chic.

    I’m actually a Hedi fan but I’ve lost faith in him the moment he joined YSL and started to do womenswear. For someone so revered in the industry, I didn’t expected from him to get Frida Giannini...
     
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  8. bc collector

    bc collector Well-Known Member

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    By diverse, I meant in terms of demographics, mostly. They cater to an older demographic who is less easily fooled by Hedi's tricks, me thinks
    It's not just the logoed stuff, it's the whole "design" approach that smacks of marketing department from miles away. I used to love his work at Dior Homme too, but, whether for cynicism or realism, I think Hedi, like many designers nowadays, knows that that kind of product that you call chic and timeless won't take you very far in terms of sales. And he preferred to go the easy way and feed the masses what they want instead of trying to elevate their taste.

    Not everybody can have Rick's or Phoebe's integrity...
     
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  9. THD96

    THD96 Well-Known Member

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    The thing is if you look at Karl entire tenure at Chanel he always challenge the taste of his clients. When I look through the Chanel Catwalk book, his rtw collections in the 80s & 90s are full of banal things (surfboards, grandma undies, boxing, etc...) But he always manage to make them look desirable (through casting, presentation). I mean he make people buy a milk bottle & shopping cart bag. Phoebe Céline at the core is business attire, but she make it luxurious and sexy, and her sense of humor is on another level (dare I say Karl level). That's why in a sea of Phoebe devotee brands no one is even come close to the original.

    Idk what happen with Hedi, but he lost that touch that make his Dior Homme desirable. His
    SL tenure almost didn't work for me, maybe because I'm not aspire to his obsession with California. The only collection I like from him at SL is his last one Fall 2016, which set the template for AV whole tenure at SL.

    His Celine is like Alt at VP visually nice but I'm just bored by all the cliché. He want to capture the zeitgeist with all the logo items but present them with a total look, it's just doesn't feel like the youth of today.
     
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