Are the Habitual couple still the designers for this version of HELMUT LANG?
I really wonder who their customer is? There are only so many customers who are willing to pay designer prices for what are essentially high street designs. Alexander Wang comes to mind on this point-- but Wang has the advantages of incredible industry-hype and strong branding on his side, somethings the new HL label is completely lacking. It's definitely not the original Lang customer as the label is nothing more than just another brand doing trendy drapey cuts with no resemblance or reference to the Helmut Lang that was a genuine force in fashion. The times they actually reference Helmut, it all looks so awkward-- like a 1st-year design student's project, or really poor knock-offs.
I've accepted that this label is an entirely different brand than the original Helmut, but as you've pointed out Scott, not only are the quality of these designs common for the price line, but as Not Plain Jane stated, the same designs can be acquired from high street labels like All Saints and the like. The leather jackets are probably their strongest offerings, but even at their best, they're Rock Owens knockoffs.
It's very disappointing to see such a visionary label come to... this.