Helmut Lang A / W 04 Paris

[softgrey]

right now i'm just trying to squeeze myself into helmut's jns... i'm officially off carbs for awhile...

but i don't want to go ot...

 

[Lena]

Originally posted by softgrey+Mar 6th, 2004 - 12:13 am--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(softgrey @ Mar 6th, 2004 - 12:13 am)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-LibertyRose@Mar 5th, 2004 - 3:01 pm
IMHO, Helmut Lang has lost his grip completely. His new collections absolutely suck. The reinvention of the white tee and all that maximal minimalism movement just don't look right.

hmm-i disagree...

i don't think you can really tell from the runway shots...i didn't really feel much about s/s 04 when i saw the show, but then, when i went into the store and saw it broken apart into individual pieces and got a look at the design and construction...it was a whole different story...i really had to restrain myself from doing some major credit card damage...i'm still not sure i won't go back...

just like jil sander, i don't think you can really get a feel for the subtle details of helmut's designs from these images...these are clothes you have to touch....you have to look at them inside and out and turn them around and around...

[/b][/quote]
so true
even though his collections do not much,
like softgrey says.. he has some real clever pieces in store
most of them in uber basic but quality fabrics,
good to wear like for everyday life and not expensive at all.

i saw his blue ss04 line last week
at his new rue Saint Fonore shop
even though everything was a bit 'basic-with-a-twist'
products were more than reasonably priced.
450euros for a fantastic pair of boots was not that much to spent.
he's riding smoothly the Helmut Lang built up
he's very efficient, both on creative and business level,a true Austrian.

now lets all pray he will not mess up trying his new 'hollywood' direction
(hence the long evening 'occassion' dresses for fw04)
it seems like he feels ready to start entering the 'glam pack'

his 'dressing' kylie (recent show) was only the start.

(same applies to Jil S. but the prices is a different matter
her new collection up close is a pure DREAM )

 

[Episternum]

The overview of this collection on style.com was gushing about how wearable and weather-appropriate the thing as a whole was. I'm thinking, for whom are chiffon and horse-tail heels winter apparel? I'll take the Carolina Herrera collection for warmth on this one.

 

[Lena]

Originally posted by Episternum@Mar 6th, 2004 - 1:06 am
I'm thinking, for whom are chiffon and horse-tail heels winter apparel?

to the 'forward' Hollywood star-let, its his star-system premiere

 

[ignitioned32]

I thought it was a collection filled with clothes with Helmut's technique. The immensly layered jackets and coats to the abstract art work-dresses to the twisting of white shirts. Aside from technique I also typical Helmut pieces, such as a cropped gold jacket and black dresses with the breast-wrapped-detail.

Overall, it was an good collection. My favorite pieces below:

 

[pradaromance]

the shoes are quite insteresting...

do these remind anyone of those gucci brown/black pumps with the lace up ribbons from a fall collection a few years ago?

 

[asta]

i like the blue coat. i would love to own it.... and the cream satin skirt with the triangular jutting out of the front...

as for the rest?

 

[pradaromance]

these are fun, i dont think i would wear them though

 

[pradaromance]

and i am very undecided on these

 

[Scott]

Helmut Lang and His Viennese Succession


Godfrey Deeny

Fashion Wire Daily March 05, 2004 - Paris - Helmut Lang, the only major European designer to have made Manhattan his home, returned to his youth Thursday in Paris with a finely wrought show that ingeniously mined his Austrian Hungarian roots.


Yet this was a collection were the occasional homage to Vienna and Budapest made not for archaic charm but for a snappy new vision of modernist fashion.


From the outset, Helmut kept his trademark lean and keen silhouette, though he played around with huge trouser cuffs tied up artily and curvy portrait collars on his jackets.


His Viennese notes appeared in the clever use of lace, creeping down below skirt hems and flowering over the tops of boots. His Budapest moment -- horsehair used on divinely new evening columns dresses and some wonderful shoes that you could see every hipster stylist is going to have to have a pair of sometime very soon, like how about tomorrow.


"You liked the horsehair, right?" inquired Lang with a mischievous glint in this eye, as a huge line of fans liked up to laud him with praise.


"I think you can bring a lot of experimentation and ideas into a collection. But when it comes to the show you have to stay focussed," said Lang, explaining the subtle riff he played on his own roots.


Lang showed several guys wearing items from the menÕs collection he presented in January, and nimbly tumbled ideas from that show into the collection we saw today in a west Paris gym. Where men wore cooper painted slim leather jackets, the gals got the same material in cape like tops. And the gals, just like in his stellar menÕs show looked, well, pretty damned great.


Pre-show Lang held a mammoth casting, eventually sending out over a score slew of models - Stella Tennant excepted ®¢ to underline his determination to stay a step ahead of his rivals. Actually, let's make those two steps, or come to think of it, a considerable leap.

 

[Spacemiu]

Personally i really like it, im gald to see him mvoe away from super strict super tight tailoring, wich I lvoe. But its nice to see a more bagy lose sillouhet, ist fresh to me for him.

nive sheos, as always

 

[Plumour]

Originally posted by Pradaromance12@Mar 5th, 2004 - 9:55 pm
and i am very undecided on these

somehow those look scary to me

 

[ignitioned32]

The first two shoes posted seem like shoes that other designers (Gucci, Fendi) did seasons ago but he made both all his own. The last shoe is intresting.. I like it. Maybe for some ground-stomping fun?

 

[tiffany]

I enjoy seeing what he does with his collections, but I just couldn't get into this one -

to dwell on the positive I love the blue coat, and this dress

 

[Lena]

the horse shoe details are so-so
my basic problem is that he's
keeping the stileto /pointed shape which bores me,
but this here looks uber cool

btw, horsehair (noted here) is a material i have used in the past ,
its quite VERY expensive (depending on lengths ordered)
but too cool with a very creative effect

going through this collection again, i really loved some of his pieces
some details posted here

 

[faust]

Originally posted by Pradaromance12@Mar 5th, 2004 - 9:54 pm
the shoes are quite insteresting...

do these remind anyone of those gucci brown/black pumps with the lace up ribbons from a fall collection a few years ago?

Tom knocked it off from HL