Hermès Menswear F/W 2022.23 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[jeanclaude]

For such expensive clothes (I don´t wanna think about the price of those crocodile jackets) it does not look expensive at all. Basics for rich men with no interest for design.

Her-meh...

 

[Avonlea]

It has always been boring but now it's also cheap.

 

[Frederic01]

This is appalling, one of the worst menswear shows of the entire mens fashion week. Everything she designs looks so dated and démodé, I can't believe this is Hermès! There is nothing aesthetically stimulating about these clothes and certainly nothing intellectually stimulating either for that matter. Totally irrelevant. These are clothes designed specifically for women who are looking to make up their yearly quota to buy a Birkin or Kelly, to buy for their husbands. Let's be honest.

Don't like the marketing department fool you on the supposedly "superior" quality and craftsmanship of these pieces. Take away the leather and crocodile, and the rest is quite standard in terms of quality which you can find in almost any luxury brand these days. They all source from the same suppliers in Italy and Switzerland. What makes it superior, apart from the vision and design, is the tailoring and craftsmanship in the cut, both elements which I see completely missing here...

 

[THD96]

I love those 2 crocodiles jackets, my favorite pieces from this collection. The rest failed because she tried to design for a younger demographic than the usual Hermès clients. The Hermès clients don't come to the house for bucket hat, puffer vest or windbreaker. She should go back to what she does best. Sharp tailoring, well made essentials with the finest materials.

Nonchalant is the best way to describe Véronique approach in design. She understands her clients needs. Nobody come to Hermès men for statements pieces, they want clothes that they can live in it and go on with their life. Her designs solved their problems.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

For such expensive clothes (I don´t wanna think about the price of those crocodile jackets) it does not look expensive at all. Basics for rich men with no interest for design.

Her-meh...

For you, Jeanclaude, meh is a compliment! But I couldn’t agree more you are totally spot on.

 

[CholoChic]

hermes customers are not rich anymore

 

[Deleted member 141309]

I don’t agree, actually. Personally thought that for the nondescript boring look that Hermès men usually goes for this is good, and there are a lot of pieces that a only slight elevated enough not to be ridiculous, but you can tell the audience for it is more mature. Not amazing or interesting at all, but, to me, the suits look great, you can tell whoever did them knows how to do tailoring.

 

[Lola701]

Even if I’m still championing Haider for Hermès (menswear and womenswear), I like this.
It really does look better in motion.
The problem with Hermès is that the name evokes a lot of things already. Everybody knows Hermès is expensive so in a way, there’s some kind of unheard expectations when it comes to the collections.

I like this because no matter what, Veronique does not deviate from her POV even if she tries to apply some fashionable twist to the equation. I particularly love tha pants and the boots (Pierre Hardy did his thing). The bags are fabulous! I like the new crossbody and the big travel bag (not the HAC). And overall I like the accessories.

The problem for me is maybe the top half of the collection. Except for the alligator bombers, I’m not impressed by the outerwear or the knitwear.

Hermes menswear is so funny in a way. I know a lot of men who buys the menswear. Except for the pieces in leather, RTW is similar to other brands in terms of prices.
So, Hermès is either worn by very chic men who somehow love the idea of the brand for timeless pieces, men who likes fashion but who pretend they are too intellectual for it or men with a very nomcore style but who have access to quality.

There’s an former French football player who is a huge Hermès menswear customer. It’s insane but he wears a lot of Hermès and has the most unimpressive and basic style. And when I see this collection, I cannot get him out of my mind.
I doubt he will wear the pants and boots for a more modern approach. But I can see him wear the knitwear and jackets. And it will look questionable because he won’t have the styling of beat bollinger.

 

[LostInNJ]

Hermes isn't meant to be a flashy, look at me brand. And perhaps these clothes need to be seen in person to appreciate the luxe quality of them, but it's shocking that even this show is considered "appalling, one of the worst menswear shows of the entire mens fashion week."

TFS members and their "critiques" are quite laughable tbh.

 

[jeanclaude]

Hermes isn't meant to be a flashy, look at me brand.

Ok...but now try to explain that to all the customers who buy a Birkin bag to flaunt their money...

 

[susseinmcswanny]

TFS members and their "critiques" are quite laughable tbh.

? Then leave lol. Everyone here has different opinions

 

[Frederic01]

Hermes isn't meant to be a flashy, look at me brand. And perhaps these clothes need to be seen in person to appreciate the luxe quality of them, but it's shocking that even this show is considered "appalling, one of the worst menswear shows of the entire mens fashion week."

The entire concept of Hermès as a brand in the 21st century is built on the idea of "flashiness". It is literally a "look at me" brand contrary to what you may have been manipulated into believing due to extremely sophisticated and subtle marketing strategies that have been implemented over time. Flashiness doesn't have to mean Versace prints or gold Rolex watches. The codes may be different but the underlying ethos is the same. An ostentatious display of wealth.

Everybody knows a Birkin bag is expensive. And every person that buys one knows that people will interpret that bag as a signifier of wealth and supposed good "taste". It is an object intended to show off the owner's status regardless of the subtlety of its branding.

The problem that I have with Hermès Menswear is that it is so pretentious in the way that it attempts to exude good taste, when in reality, it is actually quite basic and noncore, as @Lola701 mentioned. It's basically Loro Piana but with more branding and logo's and with the added touch of marketing magic that makes it seem a lot more luxurious than it really is.