Hermes F/W 2004.05 Paris

[ultramarine]

Well... there are Hermes-y elements ... and its a good collection, overall ... but to me it seems that there's something missing ... like I dunno ... it seems that there's no definite mood for this collection ... it maybe cuz it's JPG's first one ... keep the good work Jean Paul!

 

[datura001]

It'll be interesting to see what he can do in the future. I think it's also important that he's adding his own hyper energy to a brand that...let's face it, it's dusty. Those grandiose bags and intricate scarves do not look good on a younger woman.

It is time to redefine elegance? Is the old crusty fussy truly over?

Loved his slight references to rich, Saint Laurent technicolour

 

[Scott]

I don't know about this It seems much too eccentric for a luxury house based upon seasonless basics. And seeing these the big-time models just seems weird after all the 'realistic' unknown girls that always modeled for Margiela. First season,I'll give him a break, but I hope he doesn't end up going in the same direction(or directionless) like Julien at Givenchy.

That girl that looks like Chlöe S.,I think that's Anastasia from Russia(or Siberia?). Her hair used to be dark.

 

[ultramarine]

Originally posted by Scott@Mar 6th, 2004 - 10:45 pm
First season,I'll give him a break, but I hope he doesn't end up going in the same direction(or directionless) like Julien at Givenchy.

I just LOVE your comment!
You know .. Domenico DeSole's position's vacant ... you could make wonders from there!

 

[kit]

I LOVE his use of colour and that leather bomber jacket is UTTERLY perfect .

Let's give him a break !

KIT

 

[puifaiyiu]

is that the first show of jean paul?

 

[metal-on-metal]

These clothes are nice and the casting was great. However, I really don't think it's right for Hermes.

Margiela for Hermes was so perfect, really. The clothes were out-of-this-world expensive and the quality was unparalleled. Which was perfect for the Hermes customer. It was beautiful craftmanship and a slow, steady evolution of a design ideal.

Gaultier's runway theatrics and clever twists, while perfect at his own house, won't go down well with the typical Hermes client. She wants a perfectly tailored reindeerskin coat for fall (which Margiela provided, by the way, two years ago), not a throwaway item that tries to follow the season's trends. The Hermes woman doesn't care about trends.

I don't expect Gaultier to copy Margiela's aesthetic because they are two very different designers. But I think that the clothes should be a little more simple and design-driven. A revisiting of cliched Hermes symbols simply won't do.

 

[Lena]

Originally posted by puifaiyiu@Mar 7th, 2004 - 5:50 pm
is that the first show of jean paul?

yes, this is his forst for the house of Hermès

 

[Deleted member 1957]

i like it and hate it @ the same time. tHOUGH I STILL P[REFER HIS COLLECTION.

 

[wyatt.]

Originally posted by chickonspeed@Mar 7th, 2004 - 1:37 pm
These clothes are nice and the casting was great. However, I really don't think it's right for Hermes.

Margiela for Hermes was so perfect, really. The clothes were out-of-this-world expensive and the quality was unparalleled. Which was perfect for the Hermes customer. It was beautiful craftmanship and a slow, steady evolution of a design ideal.

Gaultier's runway theatrics and clever twists, while perfect at his own house, won't go down well with the typical Hermes client. She wants a perfectly tailored reindeerskin coat for fall (which Margiela provided, by the way, two years ago), not a throwaway item that tries to follow the season's trends. The Hermes woman doesn't care about trends.

I don't expect Gaultier to copy Margiela's aesthetic because they are two very different designers. But I think that the clothes should be a little more simple and design-driven. A revisiting of cliched Hermes symbols simply won't do.

i agree. it's a nice collection but he should keep it for something else.

except the top hats. because well...i just reallly like those.

 

[tott]

Originally posted by chickonspeed@Mar 7th, 2004 - 7:37 pm
Margiela for Hermes was so perfect, really. The clothes were out-of-this-world expensive and the quality was unparalleled. Which was perfect for the Hermes customer. It was beautiful craftmanship and a slow, steady evolution of a design ideal.

Yes.

You are very perceptive. I think you really are a great critic! It almost seems like you have a big database in your head when I read all your commentaries... Do you work in the industry or is it just a hobby to you?

 

[Lena]

Originally posted by tott+Mar 8th, 2004 - 12:03 am--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(tott @ Mar 8th, 2004 - 12:03 am)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-chickonspeed@Mar 7th, 2004 - 7:37 pm
Margiela for Hermes was so perfect, really. The clothes were out-of-this-world expensive and the quality was unparalleled. Which was perfect for the Hermes customer. It was beautiful craftmanship and a slow, steady evolution of a design ideal.

Yes.

[/b][/quote]
and yes again

 

[softgrey]

the austerity of margiela's work for hermes seemed more appropriate for the label...while i truly appreciate the nod to hermes' roots of horseback riding paraphenalia with the boots and hats and bits...i have to say that the clothes were really nothing...terrible disappointment, as i had high hopes for this debut collection of gaultier's...

at least the accessories are still good

 

[Lena]

Originally posted by softgrey@Mar 8th, 2004 - 9:37 pm
the austerity of margiela's work for hermes seemed more appropriate for the label...while i truly appreciate the nod to hermes' roots of horseback riding paraphenalia with the boots and hats and bits...i have to say that the clothes were really nothing...terrible disappointment

so on the point

truth i was not expecting much but still i'd love to be proven wrong on this,
I'm a minor Hermes groupie and i fear JPG will make me rethink my Hermès fetish
(good for my credit card )

 

[faust]

Originally posted by Lena+Mar 8th, 2004 - 1:49 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Lena @ Mar 8th, 2004 - 1:49 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-softgrey@Mar 8th, 2004 - 9:37 pm
the austerity of margiela's work for hermes seemed more appropriate for the label...while i truly appreciate the nod to hermes' roots of horseback riding paraphenalia with the boots and hats and bits...i have to say that the clothes were really nothing...terrible disappointment

so on the point

truth i was not expecting much but still i'd love to be proven wrong on this,
I'm a minor Hermes groupie and i fear JPG will make me rethink my Hermès fetish
(good for my credit card ) [/b][/quote]
I doubt it. What Hermes is famous for won't change. I was, too, surprised by Hermes' decision, but I was actually glad. Honestly, MM for Hermes was so silent - although I understand how it would appeal to a Hermes customer. I never understood MM being there - it was a waste of a talent IMO. I think what you see on the runway and what'll end up in stores will be two very different animals. I don't know why JPG took the position (well, no, I do, Hermes helped him financially ).

 

[Lena]

of course, Gaultier is half owned by Hèrmes, still i very much prefered the underetimated elegance of MM's Hèrmes lines..

what i liked about MM Hermes, was that he was designing with the Hermes client in mind, not with his own design style in mind, and to me that makes the whole difference.
MM was selling well for Hèrmes, he was just not making the brand 'expand' to new territories.. and this is what scares me with JPG, the new territory he will expand the Hermes style to..

then of course, based on sales figures (Journal des Textiles)
JPG is the best selling name from French designer retail non stop for the last erhh eight or ten years... strange but true

 

[faust]

Originally posted by Lena@Mar 8th, 2004 - 3:15 pm
then of course, based on sales figures (Journal des Textiles)
JPG is the best selling name from French designer retail non stop for the last erhh eight or ten years... strange but true

Are you serious? I'd never guess, wow.

 

[metal-on-metal]

Margiela did a form of quiet luxury that I think only the Hermes customer understands. It was about sumptuous fabrics, precision tailoring, and sublime quality. But very discreetly so. You could never look at a Margiela for Hermes piece and say 'ohmygodthat'shermesspringsummer2002wow.' There was a very subtle evolution in his clothes that fit in perfectly with a label that was all about time, elegance, pedigree, and tradition.

I'm not saying that Gaultier will bring in pleather pants and chartreuse polyester, but it is clear from this first collection that Hermes will now be a "fashion" label. Meaning, a new defining look each season with standout clothing and accessories. I don't know if this is the right way to go.

 

[Gobi]

I love the brown leather blazer This collection really impressed me

 

[Lena]

Originally posted by faust+Mar 8th, 2004 - 11:56 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(faust @ Mar 8th, 2004 - 11:56 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-Lena@Mar 8th, 2004 - 3:15 pm
then of course, based on sales figures (Journal des Textiles)
JPG is the best selling name from French designer retail non stop for the last erhh eight or ten years... strange but true

Are you serious? I'd never guess, wow. [/b][/quote]
absolutely serious, there was actually a thread here at FS with the evidence of the buyers list

i agree with softgrey on her Hermes client/strategy analysis..
and i think Hermes should remained timeless..
being timeless is the core idea of Hermes,
it might not be very commercial but thats whats hermes is about,
it they lose this kind of unique quality, they will just end up as
another seasonal lux mega brand.. and there are already quite
lots of those out there...

Hermes is one and only in keeping a certain level
why should they change this?
other brands wished they were at the quality/seasonless level
of Hermes..

anyway...