from style.com:
Hervé Léger is not on this week's Paris schedule, but he is back on the fashion radar. On their spring runways, young talents like Proenza Schouler and Christopher Kane revisited the concept of bandage dressing so closely associated with Léger in the eighties and nineties, while red carpet regulars like Beyoncé have been showing off their curves in vintage HL. We recently caught up with the designer, who has changed his name to Hervé L. Leroux.
The name change is a result of a public split with BCBG Max Azria, who bought the line—and moniker—in 1999. It was Karl Lagerfeld who "christened" his friend and former colleague: "He told me, 'Call yourself Leroux because your hair is red—not as red as it was, because you are older—but anyway it works, and everyone will know who you are.' "
Leroux's peripatetic career began in Rome at Fendi working with Lagerfeld, a collaboration that extended to Chanel and later Chloé. Other resume highlights include designing for Lanvin Haute Couture and Diane von Furstenberg. He established his own line in 1985, launching the bandage dress four years later. Today, he operates what he calls "the smallest couture shop in the world" on rue Jacob in Paris.
"The story of the dress is a very simple one," says Leroux, who created his signature made-to-measure frocks by winding strips of fabrics mixed with Lurex, Lycra, and elasticine around the body. "Before I started making clothes I was a hairdresser, then a hatmaker. One day in a factory I found some bands that were headed for the garbage. They gave me the idea of taking those bands and putting them next to one another as one does making a hat."
Leroux wasn't the band's only fan, of course. Azzedine Alaïa, the man most responsible for the "body con" style of dressing that defined an era, used strips of fabric as part of his brilliant repertoire. Claims Leroux: "I think I have pushed the technique farther because I have done almost 1,000 of them."
In the end, though, perhaps neither man can take credit for the phenomenon. "Bands belong to history. They come from Cleopatra, Queen of the Egyptians," says Leroux, adding: "I think I've been an Egyptian in another life."
The current spate of vintage Léger sightings is explained by the fact that BCBG has moved its archive to Los Angeles and opened its doors to the young and the bootylicious. How does Leroux feel when he sees Léger out on the town? "In the beginning it was strange to me," he admits. "But after, I said, 'Listen, it is still you that has made them.' I am happy when it fits nicely the ladies who are wearing it, and when it does not, well, what can I do?"
"I already sent a thank you note to Proenza Schouler," says Leroux, who is excited that young designers are experimenting with the technique. Christopher Kane, meanwhile, says he has a new respect for the man after working with elastic neon fabric sourced in London's East End. "Making those dresses was a nightmare," he says. "All the needles broke."
In the nineties, Leroux dressed Charlotte Rampling and Tyra Banks. He also made Iman's wedding dress. His current work, of which Kylie Minogue is a fan, involves a lot of (tight) draping. "I don't do bands anymore—although I am thinking of redoing them," he says.