Hussein Chalayan S/S 2004 - Paris

[Astrid21]

 

[Astrid21]

 

[Astrid21]

 

[ignitioned32]

The collection just isn't him.

Junya is, definetly, influential this spring. I see some of his silhouettes and prints in alot of pieces here.

Too casual and not, really, fresh.

Thanks, Astrid !

 

[Spacemiu]

wow uhm

what have we lernd from this? avant garde deisgners should not try to be comercial!

The prinetd pieces are grotesque honestly this collection reminds me alot of Balenciagas s/s collection as well, the over doen dresses and all, The only pieces I really liek are teh last three looks, they are super bazar almost bad taste but really cool

I knew trouble was coming for him

 

[Astrid21]

Originally posted by FWD@ October 09, 2003 - Paris
Chalayan's Double Helix

By Melanie Rickey

Historical discourse. Genetic anthropology. DNA testing. Well, a Hussein Chalayan show is never just about a great pair of pants is it? Which is just as well, because this designer’s quest to understand his genetic origins and correlate it with the history of his Turkish Cypriot homeland resulted in a wonderful spring collection, which carried it’s meaning lightly.

His customers don’t need to know that the opening series of sweet putty colored dungarees, which morphed first into slim line bibbed dresses with draped floral pouches, and finally strappy little tops with drapes and ties, was inspired by ancient deities.

Nor that the slim 50s-cut twisted starlet dresses printed with Hawaiian palm trees, and exploding with exaggerated frills at the neck or hem were inspired by the double helix of a DNA strand. The print did, on closer inspection, also depict scenes of conflict and battle.

In fact, take away the machinations of his intense research process, and the collection was smart, sexy and to-the-point clearly demonstrating both Chalayan’s rigorous aesthetic, and his understanding of what a collection should deliver.

You don’t need a degree to wear a pair of his sexy little tan cotton shorts, or one of his elegant black silk summer dresses worn underneath Turkish-inspired hook and eye waistcoats. His reworking of polo shirts into a white off-the-shoulder dress with a puff sleeves, or another in black jersey with a cutaway back secured with a tie were easy and fun -- not words normally attributed to the designers work.

"This collection was about me exploring my genetic and physical roots," he explained post show. "I wanted to blend time and history yet end up with totally relevant clothes." And he did.

 

[Lena]

whats wrong with this guy? I think he needs a season off or something like that, from this collection, he seems tired and fed up to me.

Commercial? well, yes, but nobody turns to Chalayan for a simple back dress or a beige dungaree
I liked the last table Astrid posted here, even the print does not bother me, those were the only original 'Chalayan' pieces in the collection.

As for the fwd article pleeease, DNA? Helix? ancient deities? History, origins and genetics? where? where? please explain prof Hussein.
One thing that absolutely annoys me with Chalayan, is his obsession with conceptual, well, not much of a concept in this lame collection buddy, try concentrate more, show your true colors

 

[ignitioned32]

Did anybody try burying clothes in the ground, what he did as an experiment in St. Martin's and did it again for S/S '02?

 

[Lena]

Originally posted by ignitioned32@Oct 10th, 2003 - 10:45 am
Did anybody try burying clothes in the ground, what he did as an experiment in St. Martin's and did it again for S/S '02?

certainly not me igni, my neighboors would be very shocked
to see me buring fabrics and digging ugly holes to our perfectly kept garden

to be honest here, i never liked the idea of wearing something buried. its a bit

 

[ignitioned32]

Originally posted by Lena+Oct 10th, 2003 - 3:05 am--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Lena @ Oct 10th, 2003 - 3:05 am)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-ignitioned32@Oct 10th, 2003 - 10:45 am
Did anybody try burying clothes in the ground, what he did as an experiment in St. Martin's and did it again for S/S '02?

certainly not me igni, my neighboors would be very shocked
to see me buring fabrics and digging ugly holes to our perfectly kept garden

to be honest here, i never liked the idea of wearing something buried. its a bit [/b][/quote]
Thanks, Lena!

 

[trean]

*shakes head* He should take a break.This doesn't look like Chalayan too me,the collection is too easy & not really worth paying a lot of attention too

 

[tealady]

 

[Spacemiu]

Originally posted by ignitioned32+Oct 10th, 2003 - 1:18 am--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ignitioned32 @ Oct 10th, 2003 - 1:18 am)</div><div class='quotemain'>

Originally posted by Lena@Oct 10th, 2003 - 3:05 am
<!--QuoteBegin-ignitioned32

@Oct 10th, 2003 - 10:45 am
Did anybody try burying clothes in the ground, what he did as an experiment in St. Martin's and did it again for S/S '02?

certainly not me igni, my neighboors would be very shocked
to see me buring fabrics and digging ugly holes to our perfectly kept garden

to be honest here, i never liked the idea of wearing something buried. its a bit

Thanks, Lena! [/b][/quote]
I was going to but im nto patient anof

 

[HBoogie]

The first plate looks like FrostFrench or something.

 

[metal-on-metal]

I can't believe how bad this is. He's clearly been trying to be more commercial as of late and sometimes it works very well (spring 2003) and sometimes it totally fails (fall 2002). This is an example of the latter. I wish Hussein wouldn't attach these ridiculous cerebral ideas to his clothing. Especially when the execution of the collection is so poor.

The clothes here are just so basic. Some pieces have absolutely nothing interesting going on. If this were A.P.C. or Paul & Joe (both of which I love) or something like that, I wouldn't be complaining. But Hussein's clothes are SO expensive. I don't think anyone will want to pay $2500 for a pair of plain black slacks and a three button polo just because it's Hussein Chalayan.

 

[Spacemiu]

Originally posted by chickonspeed@Oct 10th, 2003 - 10:39 pm
I wish Hussein wouldn't attach these ridiculous cerebral ideas to his clothing. Especially when the execution of the collection is so poor.

i agree, may be he is just trying to mak ethem sound cooler so he can charge more

I know he had finacial difacultys but he could have done something diffrently

 

[travolta]

this collection has grown on me. i remember seeing this and liking the end mutated dresses..but thinking it was bland overall. i actually find it really sweet and wearable.

 

[droogist]

I think complaints that HC is "too conceptual" miss the mark, because the fact is that if it weren't for the concept, the clothes wouldn't exist. It's not as though he makes a few frocks and then casts about for an idea to graft onto them. He's been very upfront about his creative process, and for him, the idea always come first. It's not even a case of what most designers call "inspiration"; the clothes aren't a variation on a theme, they're a communication device, a conduit.

I can see why people find that kind of blatant intellectualism exasperating, but I never really understand it when people call him pretentious. I think pretension implies a degree of insincerity, and Chalayan is nothing if not sincere. In my book, he's the most passionate designer working today. When you watch one of his shows, you're not just seeing a spectacle; you really feel that he's trying to communicate something intensely personal. I think that might be what so many people find off-putting or even irritating about Chalayan, because fashion is usually expected to be, on some level at least, fun...but for Chalayan it's so deadly serious it's almost frightening sometimes...

This definitely wasn't one of his best seasons, but the clothes looked 1000x better in person...up close, those final "wavy" dresses are truly breathtaking. Also, the collection was highly edited for the runway; once it hit the stores, you saw that there were actually a lot of more typically "Chalayan" pieces available to buy. I own a few things from this collection, and none of them were runway pieces.

And he's not really that expensive. Compared to most designerwear these days, his prices seem almost downright reasonable imo.

 

[travolta]

but don't you think most fashion is pretentious then? i think chalayan is probably one of the least pretentious actually, because by whatever means he gets there i think his clothes are in the end are smart, innovative and paired down--you probably don't have to dry clean most of them! i think this collection is one of my favorite because of the exact reasons people dislike it...although i understand the complaint why they shouldn't demand outrageous prices. no i'm not saying designers should start to design bland GAP clothing...but i think he gets the fashion machine..and thinking differently and innovatively is smart. and while a lot of designers will struggle with inflated prices..i think hussein gets to have his cake and eat it too..

 

[Spacemiu]

I have no problem this creating clothes from a conceptual idea, this is actually the way I create things my self. But I just thought the idea was way to contrived for this collection. He has done other clothes in the past that I felt more accuretly represented the idea.
I should say I like the collection more now than when it first came out.