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Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by Scott, May 6, 2004.
thank you 、
I like something faulty, accidental.
Good stuff, indeed.
It fascinates me that he says he isn't interested in the aesthetical approach to design especially given the school he attended and that he was surrounded by perhaps the most aesthetic driven designers in the industry. And perfectionists....now I know why he said he somehow felt out of place there.
I really apreciate this.
he is so cute and wise. i really liek and ejoy what he has to say.\
I lvoe this quote
"only chaos contains beauty"
his comment abotu not being intrested in clothes astheticly is veyr intresting, i guess he is more intresting in creatiopn than conceptualism?
hmmn... interesting ... thanks for posting...
i found this boring ... i didnt even get to the end of it...
it know makes me thankful that i never hunted down that first ever issue of butt magazine... where bernhard did an interview... n some photos naked...
well if you are interested... here is that article from BUTT mag
What is so boring about it? I simply don't get the insuation that all his interviews must be boring because you found this one as such.
i really find him pretentious like ...
give us a break bernhard and go make an effort to create something more original than those silly loud trucksuits
I like him a lot. He's always in a class all his own. Though most people, I think, would classify him as "avant garde," he doesn't subscribe to those overworked, rigorous notions of what fashion should be. I like that he's upfront about fashion's throwaway quality. His clothes are fun, clever, and never too serious.
Oh come on Lena....you've got to admit that for the most part of his work thus far,he's done some pretty incredible things.
Granted,in recent collections its been slightly lacking but you can't deny the refreshing prespective he's been able to present to fashion.
Btw,I just bought his book which come out a couple months ago--has all of his work compiled since he started showing in 1999. The imagery looks stunning;done by his stylist/photo collaborators Carmen Fruedenthal and Elle Verhagen.
What is that book called Scott?
never said he's not talented, i just find him far too arrogant in this interview.. and i simply cant find any creative thrill in his recent collections, thats all scott*
i wont go as far to say he's a 'has been', but i've been quite dissapointed both by his 'ego' and his recent collections.
brick print jumpsuits are not funny -or creative- to me.
Lena I totally agree with you on the his ego trip. His last couple of collections did lack, esp the men's collection.
Maybe he will get his head out of his arse and come up with something awesome next season.
in the meantime he's busy overestimating himself
Oh I completely agree that there hasn't been anything too thrilling creatively the last few collections. I actually wish he would bring back that more tailored feel as he's doing for Capucci and what he was doing when he was re-interpretating Bavarian milkmaid's costume and Michael Jackson motifs. That's that Bernhard I adore,to be honest. But you know me,I am never one to lose faith because of a couple lacklustre collections and I too hope he gets back on track.
Maybe its this move to Paris??
Spike,the book is simply called "Bernhard Willhelm 1999-2004". If in New York,Lukas & Sternberg sells it as they are publishers.
Lena - couldn't agree more. There are some decent ideas in what he says, but on the whole it really is pretentious crap:
"My work is never proof of anything. Each collection is the silent witness of a working process. Each collection raises questions which can and must have many different answers, even within the same team. There are no rules. "
That just doesn't mean anything (unless you try really hard). It's just a series of random non sequiturs. It's a mistake to think that that makes it profound.
And having seen his forthcoming AW collection for men, I would certainly agree that he's not interested in the aesthetic!
Here's another interview with Bernhard. I didn't know whether or not to start a new topic or not, as the title is quite broad. It's from FashionWindows (i'm not a member, but i love google cached).
PARIS, Jun 17, 2005/ FW/ --- Fashion Windows caught up with German designer Bernhard Willhelm at his Paris atelier/office in early May. Upon our arrival, Willhelm was literally completing some finishing touches to his next men’s collection. That collection will be presented in less than two weeks in Paris for Spring-Summer 2006.
Because so many were left in a daze after the presentation of Willhelm’s Fall 2005/Winter 2006 women’s collection, this interview provided the perfect opportunity to get into the young designer’s head and better understand the way he creates.
FW: How was it growing up wanting to work in fashion?
BW: I didn’t grow up wanting to work in fashion. As a kid, I never played with dolls. When I was still 18, I wanted to work in the botanical fields.
BW: That’s right.
FW: Ok then so how did you finally start in fashion?
BW: I became interested in it step-by-step. I started fashion in Germany. That’s when I met Jutta, my associate. I then moved to Antwerp for 4 years, and Jutta Kraus went to London for her studies. We met again while she was working at Dirk Bikkembergs.
FW: Why Antwerp?
BW: Antwerp is cheap. It has small structures and small infrastructures with ateliers willing to do small collections…I had been working in Antwerp and showing in Paris. And then, I decided to move to Paris seven years ago. At that time, there was a movement in fashion where Antwerp was influential.
FW: So do you now believe that you were born for this job?
BW: No! I don’t believe that designers are born. They are developed through steps. This is my 7th year. It’s tough because I’m not old, and I’m not young anymore. I’m sort of caught somewhere in the middle…
One group may love our work and us; and other may hate it. Our licences in Japan are developing. In Japan, Onward-Kashiyama is a big client, and they made our name there.
FW: What makes your working interested?
BW: Anything can be interesting. As long as you have a creative mind, you can do creative things. This is why for my last collection I did chaotic things.
FW: Now that last collection threw many for a loop. Can you explain your idea behind it?
BW: It’s chaotic and controversial. There was a new race of women, like leopard women! It was based on pure fantasy.
I like different interpretations of it by different people. I don’t want to do pure glamour because I feel that there are people that do it better than me. With each collection, you look for new things; things you didn’t explore before.
FW: If you didn’t do fashion, what would you like to do?
BW: I would like to do nothing.
BW: That’s right nothing. Why should I have to work? Why can’t I just do nothing? I hate that people define themselves by work. I do what I do because it is satisfying.
I still have a lot of respect for fashion. I’m doing what I can to counter that fashion conformity. Fashion is a part of culture and part of society and reflects them. So, it is not always glamorous and that’s the aspect that interests me.
FW: What advice would you offer someone wishing to get into fashion?
BW: I would say that no school can make you a good fashion designer. Go to a good school. When you find a field that interests you, stick with it. There are many fields where you can be creative and designing is just one of them. After school, you have to show in a fashion capital and show it to people. Try to get a reaction.
Do your best. Make sure people see it. With a bit of luck, you can go on. Realize that your fame last only six months and until the next collection.
FW: What do you want our readers to know about you?
BW: In the end I do it, and people discover it. And when they like it, it makes me happy. It comes from within, and I really like it when others like my work
… Also, wear more hats. And Tommy Hilfiger was right. The American flag is great!
oh and i am confused about this interview, because other articles I've read about him said he didn't move his atelier until 2002.
i like bw. he seems playful and has a good head on his shoulders in terms of fashion. i like the boundaries he pushes through the perception of what fashion is and aesthetically. fashion is ridiculous anyways and that's why it's good we have people like bw.