Iris Van Herpen Haute Couture F/W 2020.21 Paris

[Benn98]

Cast: Carice van Houten

The one she created for her fall couture film, dubbed the Transmotion dress, is no exception, anchored by an intricate lattice of black branches — laser-cut and hand-stitched in duchess satin — that erupt into flower-like sprays of white silk organza petals, the edges crimped and undulating. Given lockdown, the designer decided not to do a full collection, embrace change and collaborate with people that inspire her.




WWD

 

[Nymphaea]

The ‘Transmotion’ dress and the eponymous short film features mesmeric muse Carice van Houten, lensed by Ryan McDaniels.

The term transmotion depicts the process of change from one state and form, to another.

The ‘Transmotion’ dress radiates in a diaphanous bloom of white silk organza, translucent layers pleated within the confines of an undulating form. Contrasted against the frailty of the sheer petals, black branches of duchess satin were laser-cut, hand-stitched and form the central roots of the garment.

This geometric lattice recalls humankind’s inclination to tame nature. Beneath the surface, the branching also reveals the synonymity of mycorrhizal networks (the Wood Wide Web) and the symbiotic nature within human communities. Like fronds frozen in time, crystalline filaments sprout from the heart of the dress. Portraying delicate new life, black seed-like crystals punctuate the tip of each stamen like strand.

The concept of the creation stems from the notion of growth and regeneration. The seemingly simple seed is the embodiment of life and the potential that comes with it. A seed embedded upside down in dirt still sees the seedling growing the right way up. The dress follows symmetry in both its axis and without context, indiscernible which way is up or down. Motion and fluidity involved in the formation of tessellations highlight the capacity to shift between negatives and positives. Amidst an era when polarising ideologies are heightened, the work reflects upon the nature of perception.


Credits
Featuring: Carice van Houten
Director: Ryan McDaniels
Sound Design: Salvador Breed
Including tracks: ‘F Major’ by Hania Rani — Gondwana Records
Art Direction: Eugene Yeap | Ryan McDaniels
Casting: Tobias Heinrichs
Talent: Rebekka Beate Groeneveld
Hair & Make-up: Emmy Klomp — EE Agency
Hair & Make-up Assistant: Iris Zuidema
Production: Ryan McDaniels | Tobias Heinrichs | Valentine Bouquet
Director of Photography: Victor Horstink
Steadicam Operator: Erwan van Buuren
Focus Puller: Nina Da Costa
Gaffer: Teun Pulles
Editor: Ryan McDaniels
Color Grading: Ryan McDaniels
Photography: Valentine Bouquet
Behind The Scenes Videography: Joost Konings
Literature: Iris van Herpen | Eugene Yeap | Tobias Heinrichs
Illustrations Artwork: Nastya Kuzmina
Location: Conservatorium Hotel Amsterdam

SPECIAL THANKS TO
Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode
Davy Hezemans & Joanna van der Werf | Spice PR
Zuiderling Agency | Roy Schellekens
Nina van het Spijker & Robert Lee | Conservatorium Hotel
irisvanherpen.com

 

[jeanclaude]

Ok...a white lettuce with a tribal tatto on it...and in the last pics I see rolls of toilet paper over the floor.

 

[YohjiAddict]

jeanclaude you beat me to it. Yes! A really awful truck driver tattoo cinching the waist. No thanks.

That fabric on the floor look suspiciously similar to the curtains my grandma had in her kitchen.

 

[blackbow91]

I kind of like the "lettuce" shape, especially in the first two photos, some kind of coc«oon floaty aspect to it. Everything else is a hard pass, especially that "tattoo" in the middle. The "lettuce" shape doesn't look as great in motion from that video though, it's actually two pieces instead of only one and the floaty aspect is non-existant.

Someone will buy this though, it's wearable.

 

[GoldenPetals]

Is that a....TRAMP STAMP?

 

[billiejbob]

Melisandre is the best thing about this collection.

 

[lauralynn025]

I kind of do like the style of the dress.. just without the tattoo looking design on it lol