Issey Miyake S/S 2024 Paris

surprised to open this and see draping and bias cut and my-fair-lady hats!
not surprised to see the beautiful colourations
interesting... but mixed feelings
 
The brand is having a momentum and it’s good to see them not rest in their laurels but it’s weird to not see « Issey Miyake ». The worst thing about it is that’s it’s an actually successful, fresh looking collection.
 
OK! Adding this gentleman to that "Designer Crushes" thread.

I can't say I'm well-versed in all things Miyake (Christ, I wish I got THAT book when it was on sale), so I can't say how true this is or is not to his style. But when the clothes are this good, I can easily look past whomevers name is on the inside label.
 
^ ngl, I looked at him and was like 'oh... hmm.... let's look him up' :grinningwsweat:.. you know what's attractive? solemnity, the rarest quality among fashion designers these days...

I looked at this over the weekend and it did nothing for me so I carried on, but coming back to this.. I don't know.. it's a slow burner. As much as I love and respect Issey's legacy, his shows were a little too repetitive for many years considering his contribution to fashion, I would've loved to see him interpret our current context and bring it into his work.. instead of being in a parallel universe the way Rei seems to be (kind of just putting out doodles and reports on personal exercise live from retirement, with varying degrees of aloofness). Nothing wrong with that but while these designers are still alive and when they have given so much, it's hard not to be a little greedy and wish they'd create something that demonstrates interest in connecting with the present.

I'm not too crazy on the idea of any label continuing until the end of time with or without the designer and always having someone signing designs under his name.. that super normalized practice does such a disservice to any creative industry but as that's not changing any time soon and taking this for what it is, I like that this shows evolution and optimism, and respect for the brand. There's also a calmness to it that I really enjoy.. and that Yamamoto-esque final look, why not. :blackheart::exhaling:
 

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