Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture F/W 2022.23 Paris

vogue28

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Designed by Olivier Rousteing:



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Is Olivier Rousteing a good designer?

NO

But boy do I admire his audacity and conviction. Plus, he's such a sweetie!

This is really a lot better than what I was expecting. He had fun with it and you can tell. And it's nice to see what he can do with a proper atelier. It's really not so different from what JPG was doing before he retired.
 
Love her or hate her Kristen sure knows how to make her runway appearance memorable.

Is the menswear also couture? It's fine, but it is not exciting. It's just a re-issue of Gaultier menswear in the 90s, especially the Spring 1994 show.

But I love the women's collection. This is my favorite collection of this couture week. So much fun, you can see that both Olivier and JPG enjoy each other creative process together.
I'm very please with Olivier, look how far he comes from his first couture show to this.
First look in and I'm already hooked. Love the way he translated the perfume bottle into the actual garment.
Look 41 is my favorite, that suit dress is fabulous.

Even if the inspiration is a little too literal, I still like this collection in a way because this is JPG history through the eyes of Olivier.
It's may not as good as Glenn last season but it's better Sacai.

I'm gonna manifest for Nicolas to be the next designer. Please make it come true.
 
Even though it's hideous I expected it to be much worse. The collection looks much better on photos, when watching the show you could see how some garments wrinkled or bulked in strange places.
I didn't like the casting. Most of these girls couldn't walk at all. I can't believe it's 2022 and Lara hasn't improved a bit. Thank God they have called Erin to show how it's done. Kristen is such a clown but I like her energy, she seems to really enjoy her job.
 
I laughed so hard how fast the camera changed the view to nothing but the curtain when Kristen fell. Bless her as she seems kind of fun.

That said, this collection was nowhere near as bad as I had expected and anticipated it to be. Some of the pieces seemed impossible to move in and they were distracting for me. Other pieces, however were interesting to me. I liked look 39 as it had a cool energy to it and the amount of work that I imagine went into look 49 fascinates me, despite some construction issues I see from the waist down.

Overall, it was an acceptable effort.
 
It’s cute but the closing looks feel lifted from JPG’s last few couture shows, I don’t see where he put his “signature”. The perfume bottle inspiration is clever though.

It’s definitely better than his Balmain. My eyesight is intact for one.
 
I actually like what I saw.

Is it me or they used on the soundtrack the dialogues from Singer Chanel documentary? I swear to God I have heard Virgine Viard and madame Martinez.
 
Is Olivier Rousteing a good designer?

NO

But boy do I admire his audacity and conviction. Plus, he's such a sweetie!

This is really a lot better than what I was expecting. He had fun with it and you can tell. And it's nice to see what he can do with a proper atelier. It's really not so different from what JPG was doing before he retired.

I totally agree! I still think his Balmain is usually an abomination but his JPG actually worked. It was just an exciting show to watch. And while I personally prefer Glenn's collection, this one is still really strong, definitely stronger than that awful Balmain couture attempt.

Also, I've read that the menswear is from the rtw capsule. That's why it may be even more literal than the rest of the show. Still, won't complain about that as it was better than majority of propositions this season.
 
I tuned into the live stream not expecting much but was very VERY pleasantly surprised as the show progressed - I loved it! Absolutely adored the use of JPG's iconic fragrance bottle, like the body suit, the shoes and choker necklaces - all rather genius. My favourite element of the show, by far!
 
Hah! It’s actually not bad! He’s so tacky, but it’s great to see a collection brimming with ideas. I find this kind of delusional belief in an idea so refreshing. For me this is the polar opposite from
Balenciaga. As it should be! Fun! Better than the mess he puts out at Balmain.
 
Also, his homage to the Le Male bottle was very, very clever.
 
Some looks are soo heavy, they just belong in a furniture fair...not a fashion show!
Basically this is like one of his Balmain collections, but filled with references from Gaultier (instead of being filled with references from other designers he uses to rip off from).
 
Have you seen videos and images of JPG during and after the show? He was ELATED! Like a father at his daughter's wedding!
 
was so very pleasantly surprised by this show. he utilized ateliers to the fullest imo. married the progressively better balmain into something pretty fantastical. thought it was a relatively strong marriage between two very different design aesthetics.
 
I think it was a good collection from Olivier. He redeemed himself…
This is a bit of an embarrassment for Balmain’s Atelier because the JPG atelier really showed everything.

I like it because I think he understood the spirit of Gaultier. It’s sometimes very cheesy, but it has that charm. It has the perfect blend of Gaultier and Rousteing and for once, Olivier’s heavy hand doesn’t seem that heavy.

I enjoyed it a lot.
I find it funny that at Gaultier he references JPG but at Balmain, he barely references Pierre Balmain.
 

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