Jean-Paul Gaultier : Pre-2000

[SomethingElse]

Might as well use this thread for pre '97 works. I hope that's okay.

Men's ruched suit, c. 1990.

fitnyc.edu

 

[lucy92]

Vintage Jean-Paul Gaultier : pre-1997

jet beaded denim coat ss/1997
vam.ac.uk

 

[eugenius]

Why does my favorite designer of all time only have 2 postings in his official TFS thread? This, I must rectify..

In the meantime, check out this old House of Style clip from YouTube..It features shots from old Gaultier shows from the 80's, and how fun they looked back then!!! Certainly more fun than the Dior/Galliano shows of today..oh yeah, check out the additional clip of Linda E. too! Fierce! Sorry for the link, I'll try to add the clip here when I figure that part out..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpXiG2dkIPk

 

[dior_couture1245]

To be honest...I prefer JPG's more recent work...more refined and sophistaced, yet still has that spark and humor that JPG has always has had.

I love this song-
http://youtube.com/watch?v=NmZaAFWc5Vw

 

[Ella-Picobella]

ohhh the denim coat is awesome !!

 

[the-smiths]

I need moar sheer gaultier tops in my life.

 

[fashion.fashoff]

vintage jpg (photos by me)

80s silk scarf. fuschia with gold lettering. i kind of don't know what the words are supposed to mean (if anything). one of the words is "design!". then there is R!R!R!... whatever that means. some of the lettering almost looks cyrillic, and it has sort of the bold in-your-face aesthetic of propaganda art, so maybe this was designed around the time of jpg's 1986 russian collection.

late 80s/early 90s leather zip-up vest. i feel like i should have worn this to the superheroes exhibit.

80s jpg homme jacket. i love this piece and the contrast between the structured, padded shoulders, the great draping of the brown fabric, and the skin-tight elasticized knit along the bottom third.

 

[eugenius]

^Thanks for posting the above pics. I assume those are your own pieces? So rare do we see actual vintage designer pieces from fellow TFSers personal stash.

 

[fashion.fashoff]

^hi yes these are pieces from my collection. i just bought the book "excess: fashion & underground in the '80s" (great book, btw) and there are some old jpg ads in it that make me think my vest might be from a 1987 collection. at any rate, the pieces have the same star motif and the same repeating chevron pattern. i have no idea what the "21" on the vest means though.

 

[eugenius]

^yeah, its from his FW 86/87 collection, inspired by the Russian Constructivist (sp?) movement..similar womenswear piece attached from his 30-year anniversary show last year..

(source: style.com)

 

[Spike413]

F/W 1995 "La Femme Amazone"

Jean Paul Gaultier (French, b. 1952). Dress, fall/winter 1995–96. Multicolored synthetic quilted knit with trompe l’oeil bikini. Anonymous Gift, 2006.

Jean Paul Gaultier’s 1995 collection “Femmes Amazone” was accessorized, according to Women’s Wear Daily, with “whips and sundry other Mad Max accessories.” His inspiration, ostensibly, was the mythic Amazon and the contemporary equestrian. This dress is a version of the body-conscious sheathes he showed in the runway presentation under sweeping coats. With an ombréed and graduated dot pattern, Gaultier creates the illusion of a shadowed trompe l’oeil body wearing a bikini. The essential modesty of the padded and quilted sweater dress is subverted by this overprinted body, which emerges like an X-ray, and by Gaultier’s exploitation of the stretch of the synthetic knit to fit the dress like a second skin. Gaultier makes one of his whimsical references to the pop culture of his childhood in rendering the “itsy bitsy teenie weenie yellow polka dot bikini” of Brian Hyland’s 1960 hit single.

I had a lot of fun with this collection. The starting point was morphing of the body and the undergarment, which both appear through the medium of a sweater dress. The end result is that you have the body, the undergarment, and a warm padded sweater dress all in one. More than trompe l’oeil, I would call this a real syncretic approach to a garment.
—Jean Paul Gaultier
​

metmuseum.org

 

[Spike413]

corbis.com

 

[dior_couture1245]

Here are some full, vintage JPG shows

RTW Spring/ Summer 1994 (the introduction of the tattoo shirts)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHb6qPxgX_Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9UopnAa_Yjw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RP3Rdkbvx_s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ut8duou-vmw
(I LOVE the music for that show!)

RTW Fall/ Winter 1993 (rabbi collection)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WrgRjNEXcQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wesFTpybaHI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1WAWXTlNU8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVeSDyERCaI

 

[dior_couture1245]

^^I love how the models acted during his shows. They had fun, they interacted with the audience and each other...they seemed to really have a fun time!

I absolutely LOVE RTW SS 94, I think it's stunning!

 

[*ana*]

oh my god thank you so much for posting those videos

 

[DosViolines]

A Jean Paul Gaultier Dominatrice dress, `Women among Women' collection, 1989-90, Femme labelled, the bodice with cut-outs for the breasts, elongated, shirred sleeves with zip fasteners, the skirt open at the front but with elongated train to the rear which culminates in a buckle, with central band of corset-like hook and eye fasteners

kerrytaylorauctions

 

[DosViolines]

A Jean Paul Gaultier Femme black vinyl and dark wine jersey evening dress, late 1980s-early 1990s, labelled, with integral vinyl bustier above a column of wine jersey with pointed panel worn over one shoulder.

Gaultier experimented with rubber and vinyl in his 'Forbidden Gaultier' collection in which he experimented with the world of Barbarella combining the traditional and technological.

kerrytaylorauctions

 

[eugenius]

Great posts from '95, Spike413..I remember watching Masters Of Style on the Style channel a few years back: it showed a brief snippet of that show, where the model used the hairdryer to inflate the dress..How cool is that!?!

And thanks for the clips, dior_couture..I just found them now on youtube (stylerunner7 has some excellent JPG clips posted there, esp. of his couture shows)..Don't those tattoo shirts look oddly familiar in recent years (Galliano anybody?)..

And thanks to DosViolines as well..While I think a considerable amount of his work from the 80's is rather tacky by todays standards, I wonder how my opinion would've differed if I had actually been old enough to follow fashion back then..

Cheers to all!

 

[STYLEOClDE]

oh.my.goodness. so.amazing...

 

[bobble-bee]

thanks so much for this thread and all these images and videos !