Jil Sander F/W 2013.14 Milan

[VogueDisciple93]

Absolutely love this collection! There was an inexplicable serenity to it all, I also love the kind of uniform feel I get from it. The cuts were superb (as always), wonderful colors, and the accessories were lust worthy.

 

[Morphe]

Without doubt, this collection is very wearable and functional, especially the coats. The textiles look lovely as well. For the most part though, it's sterile, unfeminine and unremarkable. Visually, it lacks that certain something that would make a woman stand out in the crowd.

 

[Jinadaze]

Sadly this collection does nothing on me, I mean her mastership is undeniable but I only like (not love) a few pieces and that's about it. Very forgettable, even more so than last season imo.

 

[Jinadaze]

What a letdown after such a beautiful collection last season. I was floored just by how mundane most of the looks were. Watching the collection was no more exciting than going grocery shopping. And I didn't see any movement in the pieces either, they all seemed very stiff to me. And I absolutely hated the hair and makeup. All girls looked like condoms.

Otherwise I agree.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Without doubt, this collection is very wearable and functional, especially the coats. The textiles look lovely as well. For the most part though, it's sterile, unfeminine and unremarkable. Visually, it lacks that certain something that would make a woman stand out in the crowd.

Her design has always had that sober, menswear-like approach to functionality and tailoring, so no wonder these pieces have that uniform-esque crispness and precision that womenswear usually does not have. Personally, I find that to be a refreshing alternative to what womenswear usually looks like; you can easily turn towards other designers for softened feminity and coquettish allure, the appeal of Jil Sander is however a much more 'quiet' and intimate one, something that does not necessarily need to strike with a fast statement.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Absolutely agree. I think the Jil Sander woman doesn't need to stand out with her fashion-- she makes a impression with her being.

Thank the fashion gods Milan finally gave us a collection deserving and worthy of praise, and not surprisingly, it's from Jil. She really is the best for me.

Each single piece stands on its own, there's no filler-- just pure killer: A tight, well-edited collection with a strong direction that evolves-- in this case, from the last decade, but still doesn't miss a beat with the current mood in fashion, yet also doesn't just blend in with the crowd. The sharp asymmetric cuts, the voluminous sleeves, the ultra-luxe-- all Jil staples that's she's been doing from 10 years ago. And not a single desperate, showy, retro-gimmicky, editorial-baiting, it's-so-raunchy-everyone-will-notice, contrary/ironic piece in her collection. I feel like each piece is there to progress the collection along and even more importantly, will have a life when worn by women in their own way: Jil's like an ingenious, thoughtful architect who designs immaculate structures, and the occupants may bring in their own style of decor and everything will look great because the underlying structure is so well thought out. I understand it's not a "fun", "cute", diva vibe, with which-celebrity-will-be-wearing-it-on-the-Red-Carpet type of collection that gets many people excited-- and I'm so glad for that.

Jil's back in full force with strong designs that are always modern, graphic, timeless and most importantly, so thoughtful and allows the wearer to look great and not like desperate and disposable fashion victim: You see the woman, the individual when she's in Jil Sander. I think the best designers are able to do that, and Jil's always one of the best to me.

 

[Morphe]

^ From my very own (female) point of view, I don't see any of this. Sorry.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Would be interesting then to hear (from a female point of view) what it takes for you to resonate with a collection, and what your personal take on feminity is, next to how me as a guy would look at womenswear. Thanks in advance for your elaboration!

 

[lepetitcouturier]

The clothes aren't able to be pulled off by any woman in my opinion. But that may be because the models were pretty much made up in an extremely masculine way and the clothes had no femininity.

 

[HeatherAnne]

you can easily turn towards other designers for softened feminity and coquettish allure, the appeal of Jil Sander is however a much more 'quiet' and intimate one

YES! And thank heavens she doesn't succumb to that.

I love the linear theme of this collection. She took the seemingly simple concept of a contrasting block strip of color and made it the chicest thing ever. Every seam line is prominent, and a harmonious contributor to the overall look. The plaids are refined and beautiful.

I want it all.

 

[Uemarasan]

I'd actually want to hear from Laika, who has such a keen understanding of Jil Sander's idea of femininity.

I think this is brilliant. The tailoring, as is expected, is exquisite. Nothing that has been shown this season so far comes close. The shapes and silhouettes alone would have made for a great collection, but the injection of colors transforms this into a master class.

There is a certain woman Jil Sander appeals to, and quite frankly this is a woman I would love to engage in conversation with and know what she's thinking.

 

[Zazie]

"Would be interesting then to hear (from a female point of view) what it takes for you to resonate with a collection, and what your personal take on feminity is, next to how me as a guy would look at womenswear. Thanks in advance for your elaboration!

Perfectly tailored minimalism, and love the subtle but uniquely Jil Sander experiments, eg the uneven diagonal pleats and the liquid smooth materials. @tricotacetate, This is *feminine* to me because it is *supremely elegant*, and *chic*, that is a very important concept to me about being a female, the need to flatter myself with the most elegant outfits possible. I just find the frills, excessive surface embellishments "silly", common, and I treasure EFFORTS that are original, and which contain "secrets" known only to me, the wearer. This appeals to the cat-like nature of being female, and yes, a little bit snobbish....sorry.... Not many designers can achieve that.

 

[Zazie]

Have to add the only issue I have with Jil Sander is the fit for a frame like mine, otherwise, I would buy a lot more.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Was looking forward to your thoughts, Zazie, I also do find these clothes to exude a great deal of elegance, sophistication and nobleness in a discreet, upon-second-look way... and yes, this to me is much more chic than to display an easy and obvious frontal focussed, visual statement (Her younger contemporaries, such as Raf Simons and Francisco Costa should take note here) ... There is a lovely swing to quite a few of these outfits which can't be seen in runway shots and I dare say there is a convincing coat/jacket to be had for everyone in here, with all these different coat lengths, fitted shoulders/dropped shoulders (I assume you have a somewhat larger frame yourself?)...

Besides, it's interesting to see her not showing two of the things she has been very well known for since returning to her own fashion house; the white shirt as well as the pant suit. I am pretty sure she hasn't abandoned that part of her offering completely but is wise enough to focus on what feels moe 'new' within her vocabulary.

 

[disco54]

Its very nice , very Jil Sander, her coats are always the best cut.
I have to give her kudos, she picked up where she left off after 7 years, nothing seems awkward or rusty.
That in itself is an achievement.

 

[almudena]

From my female point of view, I find this collection very feminine.
A minimalism that exudes femininity, but a grown-up one, subtle and elegant.
The opening and closing looks are as low key sexy and feminine as it gets.

I adored the colour palette too, those plums and blues and anthracites.

 

[elle_gb]

I love the popped up color, she places it right and it looks very modern.

 

[Zazie]

There is a lovely swing to quite a few of these outfits which can't be seen in runway shots and I dare say there is a convincing coat/jacket to be had for everyone in here, with all these different coat lengths, fitted shoulders/dropped shoulders (I assume you have a somewhat larger frame yourself?)...

Besides, it's interesting to see her not showing two of the things she has been very well known for since returning to her own fashion house; the white shirt as well as the pant suit. I am pretty sure she hasn't abandoned that part of her offering completely but is wise enough to focus on what feels moe 'new' within her vocabulary.

Ah, it's the opposite, mine is more of an anemic and "concave" frame, and I don't carry the more structured Jil Sander/Martin Margiela jackets and coats well, even though I like volume. I would fall in love with them at first sight but after trying on, they will be reluctantly (very reluctantly...as not many do outerwear like Jil Sander....) returned to the rack. You can see a bit of that in some of these dropped-shoulders outerwear here. Dresses, tops and skirts are perfect, and trousers are sublime! I don't know if others have complained about the same?

Yes, the mostly A-line clothes in motion is quite delightful to behold, making the collection more feminine, even as they are the anti-thesis of Anna d l Russo and fashion bloggers, they still call attention. They are not the generic leopard-print, tight-fitting uniform on "good taste" fashion editors either. Phoebe Philo will probably wear everything here, as will many in the design-creative fields. Like you, I appreciate how, instead of sending out her staples or archives, she puts in a lot to deliver something new, something experimental - all the elaborate asymmetrical pleating ideas here, and how she manages to keep the hems and shapes impeccable despite the folds, tucks, etc. It's a designer who spends a lot of time at work, and such sophistication is much appreciated.

 

[Zazie]

Btw, I wear 34 in JS, sometimes 36 to get the right sleeve length. I love this jacket, it's a classic beauty, but I am quite sure I won't be able to wear it, even at Sz 34.

http://postimage.org/image/7jynicrkb/

 

[Alexei]

Simple and chic- as only Jil Sander can. Much better than last season if you ask me.