Jil Sander F/W 2019.20 Milan

Discussion in 'Designers and Collections' started by vogue28, Feb 20, 2019.

  1. vogue28

    vogue28 Mod Squad Team Leader

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2008
    Messages:
    23,473
    Likes Received:
    1,954
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    VOGUE.COM
     
  2. vogue28

    vogue28 Mod Squad Team Leader

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2008
    Messages:
    23,473
    Likes Received:
    1,954
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    VOGUE.COM
     
  3. vogue28

    vogue28 Mod Squad Team Leader

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2008
    Messages:
    23,473
    Likes Received:
    1,954
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    VOGUE.COM
     
  4. jeanclaude

    jeanclaude Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2012
    Messages:
    997
    Likes Received:
    775
    Whenever I think about Jil Sander, volumes never come to my mind. I miss her 90s collections soo much...
    [​IMG]
    whitneyschuyler.com
     
  5. rip_ian curtis

    rip_ian curtis Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2008
    Messages:
    596
    Likes Received:
    104
    Jil did volume, too, but mainly with coats and in a much more refined way. Her collections were full of lightness, interesting cuts, bias cut, sheer, clever hiding and exposing of the body, new materials, signature proportions... none of that is seen here!

    Instead the current designers insist on offering bulky, heavy, monastic and pretentious looks. I would also like to know what is their obsession with those strange striped fabrics that remind me of old mattresses. They do that every season. So not elegant!
     
    TaylorBinque, entten and jeanclaude like this.
  6. jeanclaude

    jeanclaude Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2012
    Messages:
    997
    Likes Received:
    775
    Yes, totally! Her play with volumes were always subtle. She never drown models in fabrics.

    Those stripes reminds me of concentration camp uniforms.
     
  7. Not Plain Jane

    Not Plain Jane Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2010
    Messages:
    14,582
    Likes Received:
    132
    this is definitely too slouchy for sanders
     
    jeanclaude likes this.
  8. dfl-001

    dfl-001 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2005
    Messages:
    1,450
    Likes Received:
    240
    I was expecting understated chic from Jil Sander, instead we get lumpy and shapeless.
    It's like two competing ideas fighting against each other; sleek minimalism and some exercise in volume. Neither quite get there. The pale yellow top is the only look I like.
     
    jeanclaude likes this.
  9. Fiercification

    Fiercification Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2008
    Messages:
    5,633
    Likes Received:
    217
    Honestly what the hell even is this? More 'whoever makes the best (worst) Phoebe Philo tribute wins a show at Milan FW!!!' than Jil Sander honestly. So sad.
     
    jeanclaude likes this.
  10. GivenchyHomme

    GivenchyHomme Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2009
    Messages:
    4,086
    Likes Received:
    1,059
    Apparently the Jil Sander woman no longer has a shape. She prefers to hide her body in oversized potato sacks. A Poncho at Jil Sander? Enough is enough. Either kill it once and for all or hire a pro. This brand has too much of a history to go into irrelevancy.
     
    jeanclaude and kasper! like this.
  11. kasper!

    kasper! Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2007
    Messages:
    4,792
    Likes Received:
    273
    ^I was thinking the same. Their brand DNA is all about sleek and tailored look, def not potato sacks!
     
    jeanclaude and GivenchyHomme like this.
  12. TaylorBinque

    TaylorBinque Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2010
    Messages:
    2,260
    Likes Received:
    253
    why they really want to make Jil Sander women wear slouchy oversized everything. I feel like they have been doing the same thing since they took over. Why can't we have a sleek, streamlined and interesting cuts?
     
    jeanclaude likes this.
  13. Lola701

    Lola701 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2014
    Messages:
    5,345
    Likes Received:
    2,810
    For me the problem is not oversized silhouettes but the fact that they don't seems to care about the core customer of JS.
    JS is for active women, ACTIVE WOMEN (and men). So clothes that are practical, that solves problem for people with busy lives. And all of that, with a fashion twist.

    Loungewear is cool but I doubt the JS woman lives the same life as the The Row woman. This is just not believable.
     
  14. tricotineacetat

    tricotineacetat Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2005
    Messages:
    2,207
    Likes Received:
    126
    I am in agreement with this wholeheartedly and it's the reason why I find their work to be quite two-dimensional for Jil Sander - Her minimalism had depth because of the pragmatic groundedness her clothes had, which is completely missing from the Meier's work. Oddly enough, I get the flair of Damir Doma or Samuel Drira hanging over this which is exactly everything Jil Sander should not be to have a reason to exist beyond her retirement.

    Christophe Lemaire would be the most logical successor here with the experiences he made both at Hermès and most recently at Uniqlo to ensure that the practical element of Jil Sander clothes is kept along with an easy-handed, urban sophistication. Or Hussein Chalayan, in continuation of the more editorially relevant work that put Jil Sander back on the map during Raf Simons' tenure.
     
  15. Lola701

    Lola701 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2014
    Messages:
    5,345
    Likes Received:
    2,810
    ^^
    It's interesting that you mentioned Uniqlo because I think that unfortunately, the heritage of JS is at Uniqlo and COS.
    Jil Sander is supposed to be the place where we can find the most amazing and yet simple white shirt. It's supposed to be the place where we can find the most amazing and yet simple details: an interesting collar, shape or fabric.

    You can't a versatile suit in a beautiful fabric? JS is your place!

    Jil Sander is supposed to be for a total wardrobe of "essentials" what Max Mara is for coats.

    I hate to mention him but Raf understood it perfectly. The shapes were simple and so was the styling but yet, the colors, prints or fabrics gave another dimension to the brand. And because in substance, JS is above trends, the pink pant someone bought in 2011 is still relevant today.

    Minimalism wasn't a trend for JS and unfortunately, it is for this couple.

    TBH, JS has enough archives to survive on it own. All they need is a great marketing team, some great campaigns and I wouldn't even mind a celebrity deal. Just release archives item, collaborate with Joe McKenna and everything is perfect.

    The ALAIA business model should be the blueprint for a lot of struggling brands.
     
  16. tricotineacetat

    tricotineacetat Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2005
    Messages:
    2,207
    Likes Received:
    126
    I mentioned Uniqlo in this case because I find their approach to the development of product, through extensive research and refinement of technically exacting details such as the fabrics and yarns used, the functionality of their outerwear etc. to be not so far away from what Jil Sander was all about, and why she was probably hired by Uniqlo to give the company more depth and direction, through her creative input - Remember that her recruitment at the time was understood not only to design the critically acclaimed +J design line, but also to give direction to the core Uniqlo business. That is exactly the assignment currently given to Christophe Lemaire at Uniqlo U.

    As you mentioned yourself, the Meier's look at minimalism as purely a style proposition seen through current trends already paved by other designers, such as The Row, Céline, Damir Doma and the like. They are essentially doing COS, which is a mash-up of all these designers, just on a lower price point.

    Raf Simons was good for Jil Sander because he added a pragmatic fashion element that wasn't as contrived as later on at Dior or Calvin Klein. Oddly enough, I think everyone expected that and it shows there is a need for this kind of design also on a luxury level as nobody seems to get it right today. I am still rooted for Chalayan and Lemaire to have that kind of understanding or maybe Veronique Branquinho who is a storied and proven talent with a pragmatic eye in her own right.
     
    softgrey and MetroMelannie like this.
  17. tricotineacetat

    tricotineacetat Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2005
    Messages:
    2,207
    Likes Received:
    126
    Another thing I may want to add: Jil Sander is a brand that should have a healthy part of their collection not conceived as seasonal fashion business but permanent/non-seasonal products that are communicated and marketed as such.
     
    softgrey and Lola701 like this.
  18. donyan

    donyan Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2007
    Messages:
    389
    Likes Received:
    69
    I agree with everything said here . It’s not even that the clothes are ugly, i’m sure that in individual pieces are much nicer in reality, just as a look and show it seems so unappealing. Apparently sales figures fell catastrophically under Raf but at least it was relevant. I’d be interested to know how it’s doing now
     
  19. tatouejeremie

    tatouejeremie Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2009
    Messages:
    859
    Likes Received:
    160
    actually they got rid of the entire archive and the earliest stuff they have is from raf's tenure :ninja:
     
  20. Lola701

    Lola701 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2014
    Messages:
    5,345
    Likes Received:
    2,810
    :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:
    They can go to Vogue.com, WWD or even fashion channel for pictures of those collections and copy from that. Designers in NY, Paris, London and Milan does that every season:lol::lol:
     
    jeanclaude likes this.

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice
monitoring_string = "058526dd2635cb6818386bfd373b82a4"