Jil Sander S/S 11 Milan

I think it has been clear that Raf and his design team are trying to move Jil Sander into a more arts-y, cerebral fashion context, in which designers such as Yohji, Helmut Lang but also Alaia definitely have been reference points in seasons past... this works out fine for as long as he manages to channel these aesthetics in a strictly realistic 'Jil' frame of wearable garments with incredible architecture and cut, but that customers can easily envision being worn at any time (as you were refering to in the Yohji coat example).

....Similarily, I approve a lot to Theyskens latest collection for Theory - it's done him good to take the challenge and distill his design to the core, not only price-wise but also aesthetically, it feels very direct and honest to me, which I like.

I very much agree with you - I was expecting much more from Raf as his roots are in menswear and he has shown a huge diversity of design, experimented with materials, shapes and proportions, even much more than Slimane. To design JS day wear should have unleashed his complete creativity without being constrained by the demands of menswear - he would have much more to "play" with.

Most of my clothing budget goes to good jackets, coats, pants - these are the pieces that are very difficult to design well, yet these are the pieces that are staples in most wardrobes. I don't know about others, but when I have a favourite which looks great, I'd be terrified of damaging it and I'm likely to buy more in different shades. This was what I appreciated about Jil Sander and Yohji - they do it differently from the average designer - the Agnes B., the APC, etc.

It's perfectly fine to send out couture-shaped dresses and skirts, but there's got to be more thoughtfully designed jackets, suits, coats, the hallmark of Jil Sander, the reason most JS customers turn to the brand.

But of course now there's Theyskens' Theory to fill the void.
 
Thanks for posting the image Mike. I never manage to find time to 'do' resort and hadn't seen what Phoebe did there.

It seems perhaps likely doesn't it that Phoebe may well go to colour blocking brights and that 'neon minimalism' will be a major statement for SS11. It seems in the wind.

Beyond that 'neon minimalism' might be read as something of a contradiction in terms. It's looking like the idea of a play of contrasts may well be the over-riding story and that - in the happy, fun, upbeat messages as fashion seeks to drive a new boom economy - it will be at one and the same time a highly 'commercial' season but also a fairly 'editorial' season with a focus on displacement, the unexpected, something a little out-there, 'wrong' even, as contrasting elements are fused with a degree of quirk.

And there a play of contrasts again. Lady's who lunch - on acid. Minimalism gone a bit 'street'. The fusion of elements one really wouldn't think ought to go together. An insane party because you only live once and hangovers only last so long.

I'm behind and haven't had chance to view that much yet but so far it seems Prada and Jil Sander have a lot of parralels along these lines. Get Celine to join the party and you've a strong sense of the direction of things. Celine's been such a box office smash these last two seasons that of course everyone's following Phoebe right now so probably her resort collection has been highly influential.

People are tired of restraint and prudence already. If the suits in banks can jump on the vibe too then we can all really have some fun and capitalism can have a real proper crisis in the not too distant future. Consumption, decadence and madness reign. It's the West imploding no less.
 
It seems perhaps likely doesn't it that Phoebe may well go to colour blocking brights and that 'neon minimalism' will be a major statement for SS11. It seems in the wind.

Beyond that 'neon minimalism' might be read as something of a contradiction in terms. It's looking like the idea of a play of contrasts may well be the over-riding story and that - in the happy, fun, upbeat messages as fashion seeks to drive a new boom economy - it will be at one and the same time a highly 'commercial' season but also a fairly 'editorial' season with a focus on displacement, the unexpected, something a little out-there, 'wrong' even, as contrasting elements are fused with a degree of quirk.

And there a play of contrasts again. Lady's who lunch - on acid. Minimalism gone a bit 'street'. The fusion of elements one really wouldn't think ought to go together. An insane party because you only live once and hangovers only last so long.

it's too true and all of the best presentations have played on these contradictions. i suspect the best editorials will play on that frisson as well. it's the idea of the seventies mashed up with the nineties. it's not just disco, it's not just techno. it's fused together somehow. so we see the sleek lines at jil sander and calvin incorporating the decadent color we see elsewhere. everyone from altizarra to burberry prorsum has found ways to bring these neons to the fore. but, lest we forget, celine did that, too, at resort.

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style.com
 
Hmmm... I'm in a in-between position with this collection. There are very highs and lows. Fortunately, the highs make me like this collection. Not in the construction, more like in the idea and mood behind it.

I do really love the use of t-shirts sticked with long, colorful gown skirts. The use of your favorite crisp and casual white tee with a very elegant bottom. Quite a intelectual juxtapostion, blurring casualty with formality. I really like this trend. First with Marc Jacobs and Dries van Noten last season and then Raf this season. Then those stripe exaggerated dresses. Quite like having a big tee transformed into a formal gown. Again, clasicism against casualism.

But then, towards the middle to the end of the show, the show gets a little bit... familiar? I feel like I've already seen this from Raf. I still need time trying to digest that part, though the styling with the jackets... it's really appealing for me.

Overall, this is a nice attempt from Raf. The collection stays in my mind for its general aesthetic rather than the actual garments.
 
the collection was terrible. Raf has been slowly killing his on label, and now finally lost it with Jil Sander as well.
 
That would explain the unexpected YSL flair in this collection:

2010 October 12
Raf Simons: He's So YSL!




(NEW YORK) Things to discuss! All those unexpected brights, roses, and general moodiness at Jil Sander...has Raf Simons had a creative break-up with the house that Jil built? And is it just nous, or does this have YSL written all over it? As The Daily first reported in April, Pilati's long-term tenure at the house is less than assured. To add fuel to the flames, our Parisian sources report that Simons has entertained several meetings at PPR headquarters in the last few months. Is this the ultimate job interview or what?

dailyfrontrow.com
 
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The colours are really familiar, aren't they? I swear I've seen this set before.. Feels very maybe 90s, I have a couple of books from then and some pictures.. Ralph Lauren for men especially. United Colours of Benetton. They are certainly saturated and bright but tinted just slightly to soften them... I used to hate it all throughout grade school, it's too strong for my complexion even then but looks quite good here
 
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When I first saw the collection, I LIVED for it. Well most of it atleast. That really flowery print for some reason made me think "yuck pastels" and I'm not sure why. Anyway, I think that as it was said before Raf was taking the conventions of couture and doing them in a neo minimalistic twist. I've always loved the idea of taking a Hanes T-shirt and throwing a Balmain jacket atop it. I think that fashion lies within the contrast.

It seems that the collection grows on me everytime I see it as well and I never really disliked it.

Oh and I did think of Isaac Mizrahi a tad.
 
I must admit that this collection has been (and still is!) growing on me either. I'm really in love with all the volumes and maxi-length skirts, it was such a nice move from Raf to play with the typical Jil Sander aesthetic a bit
 
This would be Jil Sander on Raquel Zimmermann for American Vogue.

fashiongonerogue
 
T shirt,Skirt
Elle Italia Jan 2011
“Energy Coco”
Model: Coco Rocha
Ph: Alexei Hay
St: Alberto Zanoletti

image.png


ZFashionBlog via john2elmejor
 
Jil Sander has done this colour palette before .. in Menswear, at least.

Come Spring Summer 2005 .. when she returned to the label after the disastrous Milan tenure ... of course she did much more demure compared to Rafs explosion for this season

jsa002.jpg


Image from www.gq-magazine.co.uk

Keeping on this collection .. it certainly stands out on the sea of other collections and Im quite fond of all those dresses. Now yes, I agree esp Raf admitting taking the couture approach it may not be commercial .. but if we fall in love with this without even seen it on the flesh .. can you imagine touching the fabric? I love how it falls on the body!!!
 
Clothing
Harpers Bazaar US February 2011
Fashion's Bright Spot
Photographed by Kacper Kasprzyk
Styled by Roxane Danset
Models Basia, Eileen Heydorn, Celine Van Amstel, Anabel Van Toledo, Esme Wissels.




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There's something about this collection that makes it look fabulous in print.

I didn't appreciate in on the runway at the first sight, but ss well as with Prada, it ended up looking stellar in the magazines. Adore the electric colours, amazing.
 
^I agree, it photographs fantastically but I have yet to see it being pulled off in real life
 
This is a very elongated colletion.I was trying to find some repetitive silhouetes as well but the collection faded them out by the oufits arrangement.I think that was remarkable.For me,this collection have shown what Raf can bring to the brand which is color,volume,and playfulness.
 
Seeing this shot in the new issue of Vogue Italia made me come back to this collection and realize again how brilliant it is. Together with Prada they're the most stellar collections in the magazines this season.

I'm just obsessed with the elongated full-skirt silhouette and those electric pink pieces, they look so good in print. So good.

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