Jil Sander S/S 2022 Milan

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[THD96]

I like the atmosphere of the show, very JS in the 90s. But the collection leave me feel nothing.

I like that they moved toward Jil archives and and stop relying on Céline, it's still there but at least this season it was "lighter" and not obvious.

The tailoring is my least favorite part of the show, which is so weird for a house like JS, because that basically the essence of the house. The jackets look bulky and stiff, they're too oversized and make the models look heavy on the top. And the accessories are simply not JS.

But I like the dresses, they've that lightness and feel totally unfussy to wear.

 

[Phuel]

Depressing. Shapeless, oversized is not in the spirit of Jil’s minimalism. Resembles hospital gowns and scrubs.

 

[perhydrol]

^ I completely agree on the unnecessary heaviness of the tailoring in this collection. It's too oversized. In my opinion, the silhouettes should have been more balanced. What's more, I feel like this collection was all over the place, there wasn't one strong statement and that left some ideas unfinished. That being said, I really like the collection, despite all of its flaws. The last look on Cara was spectacular in motion, the colour palette was really interesting and light and some of the experiments really paid off.

 

[jeanclaude]

A tiger print coat...at Jil Sander??

 

[YohjiAddict]

^Raf Simons already subjected us to his Stepford Wives vision of Jil Sander, an absurdity if there was ever one, so a tiger print coat (ugly as it is) doesn't scare me anymore...

The general vibe and color palette seems good in theory but fat suits for tailoring and detailing that just adds unncesary bulk and dowdiness make this one of their worst offerings.

Jil Sander is all about clothes that enhance the natural grace of the wearer, this just feels like it impedes or disguises any such thing.

 

[maimon]

the proportions of the tailoring are kind of unpleasant? and the drapings in the heavier looking material look somewhat cheap. also i already hate paisley in general but would have never imagined it in a Jil Sander collection...

i like the polished hair though together with that darker eye shadow (thats what i thought after looking at Caras face upclose but it looks like she is the only one with slightly darker eye shadow, or is it just her narrow eye brow and hooded eye lids that make it appear more shadowed? anyway it would have looked good on the other girls too...) edit: they did it on a few other girls as well.

 

[WAVES]

there are some nice pieces but it did feel heavy and not pristinely tailored.

do all (not all but most), of the dresses and skirts need a pair of trousers under? feels tiresome and repetitive.

the first looks were my favourites, I guess.

 

[Ruito]

Why do their collections all look like Phobe Philo's Céline!!!! This collection is all over the place!

 

[Fulton St Critique]

So tired of this. I gave them a chance, I really did and was willing to back them. However, this latest showing proves they have absolutely nothing to contribute to the legacy of the house. Where is the modernity? The timelessness? This is what we love and have grown accustomed to from Sander. No cohesion, balance, and on top of that the most ugly proportions. Distasteful and disastrous. Please try harder.

 

[ForTheImage]

Great cast, beautiful cast.

 

[Norden]

Its kind of lacking the spirit of Jil Sander, which Raf in even his most experimental collections for the house manage to capture. The spirit or DNA reaches further than merely fashion. What we see here is a very 2016-18 Celine version of fashion.
The runway is a cheap trick, why is it purple? its so superficial.
The Colors of the clothes we have seen before countless of times in recent collections of various designers, done with more depth.
The tailoring is an inexcusable issue for Jil Sander, understandable the zeitgeist has moved to looser silhouettes. This duo should ask themselves, 'what does that mean for Jil?" this looks random, and out of balance.

what a waste.

 

[Lola701]

Very Raf Simons for Dior (the last few collections) or his own line…

They have all the archives necessary for minimalism. When you are at the motherland, why not just go to the archives if you don’t have anything new to propose?

Terrible collection.

 

[liberty33r1b]

I hate oversize, why does everything have to be oversize these days?

 

[GivenchyAddict]

This collection is so bad. It would make any woman old, this is so cold and lifeless, the proportions are so off, the color palette is depressing and what on earth is this cut ??? Wearing that gives you the same silhouette as a sponge.

 

[JohannesL]

I dislike what they did with the Philo/Celine aesthetics to this brand because Jil Sander has all the potential to be the ultimate minimalism brand. Every time those loose silhouettes just didn't work for Jil Sander and they make it worse with those bulky/oversized jackets. I didn't have high expectations from Onward (its former owner), but now with Jil Sander in the hands of Renzo Rosso, for better or worse, I expect a resurgence of Jil Sander.

 

[YohjiAddict]

I had forgotten that these two are the heads of the Department of Fashion Design at the University of Applied Arts Vienna...with collections like this one I'm just left wondering what they are able to teach to their students!