John Galliano - Designer, Creative Director of Maison Margiela

[tourbillions]

Where is this sentiment that galliano cannot make many shows a year coming from? He has proved it when he was making collections for dior and his own namesake that he is capable... Margiela's lack of collections is definitely from external reasons and not because of his capabilities. Sure couture takes time but it doesnt mean its the only one they are working on unless their atelier is way smaller than what Galliano is used to so they all have to work on the couture collection and lose time for any rtw. But MM6 doesnt have any troubles making collections... i wonder what is the real reason behind the non-showing.

 

[Scotty]

If it's not Dior or Givenchy then they can keep it. Just give him back his own name.

 

[tourbillions]

If it's not Dior or Givenchy then they can keep it. Just give him back his own name.

givenchy is in good hands... galliano at armani will be a dream... all the asian influences they both love.

 

[Lola701]

imagine this at Chanel around contract negotiations lol

lol, right?
Tbh, I don’t even think about Chanel for him. I try to be realistic.
I don’t see anywhere else than Margiela. Maybe Schiaparelli…Della Valle and Arnault are in business after all. If Roseberry was ever going to leave, Schiaparelli has enough cachet and a business model likely to fit Galliano’s requirements.

I don’t think Galliano has the drive anymore to deal with what is expected from a designer today.
Ok, he was one of those who created the blueprint model for what a CD should be but it has burned him one time.

Arnault would never give him back his baby. I think maybe the mass should move on the same way people have moved on.


Nevertheless, Wintour has done a good PR thing for him. His name is back on the conversation. I wouldn’t be surprised to learn that they will dedicate a MET exhibition for him and it may coincide with the revival of his house or him taking over another maison. But he needs to work on a smaller scale. And in reality, Schiaparelli offers that.

 

[CholoChic]

For sure he is making dresses righ now, complex couture
He is making a complex haute couture, millions of litte layers where the seamstresses and pattern makers are with their heads aching from such millimeter work.

 

[PDFSD]

For sure he is making dresses righ now, complex couture
He is making a complex haute couture, millions of litte layers where the seamstresses and pattern makers are with their heads aching from such millimeter work.

i think he told the teams to take it slow with vague info i understood this before the summer holidays

the vibe was not full steam ahead

 

[proseccotabis]

Guys. could i ask why is everyone so confident in JG leaving? do we really think he's leaving MM simply because Dana Thomas and Miss Tweed said that? can someone please enlighten me :/

 

[Grets]

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Why do people ask this as if they're not asking someone about a product that needs to be sold

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Just dug a little deeper and realized I was questioning British Vogue

 

[JohannesL]

 

[JohannesL]

 

[JohannesL]

 

[CholoChic]

So he didnt win the designer of the year with just only one collection by year,
suddenly that groped last collection was filled with spider webs.

 

[JohannesL]

 

[Kite]

llection was filled with spider webs.

They offered it to John, and he declined and said he couldn't attend. Same with Miuccia.

The Fashion Awards is literally just 'Who can Turn up?' gets the award.

 

[mdmmxl]

Kind of sad to think that 30 years ago, luxury really had another meaning. I know that Johns Dior did not sell well, but there really was some kind of obsession with craft, with what you could do...

 

[imjustken]

I know that Johns Dior did not sell well

Do you know that or are you foredeeming ?

 

[mdmmxl]

How do you know that ?

If I remember correctly, I heard a buyer talk about it on a panel when Raf joined Dior and the big question was if customers would adapt to his vision of a modern woman vs. what they were used to from the brand. She said that beyond, for example, the saddle bag and its seasonal variations, and the crazy logomania stuff from the early aughts, most ready-to-wear was a tough sell, because it was either the bias cut (party)dresses or the show-ideas merchandised into stuff for the older clientele (aka. printed twin sets, skirt suits etc.). Shoes were apparently also a big problem. Its interesting to look on resale sites for stuff from his era at the house - It's mostly quite safe, bourgeois looking blouses and pencil skirts, and not a lot of it.

 

[Lola701]

If I remember correctly, I heard a buyer talk about it on a panel when Raf joined Dior and the big question was if customers would adapt to his vision of a modern woman vs. what they were used to from the brand. She said that beyond, for example, the saddle bag and its seasonal variations, and the crazy logomania stuff from the early aughts, most ready-to-wear was a tough sell, because it was either the bias cut (party)dresses or the show-ideas merchandised into stuff for the older clientele (aka. printed twin sets, skirt suits etc.). Shoes were apparently also a big problem. Its interesting to look on resale sites for stuff from his era at the house - It's mostly quite safe, bourgeois looking blouses and pencil skirts, and not a lot of it.

But Dior under Galliano had almost 2 different eras as they shifted their business in 2007. In reality, Dior became bigger when it went conservative than it was in the early 00’s.
In the early 00’s they sold a lot of what would be called today « merch ».

But let’s be real about business. Those huge conglomerates are not making fashion if it’s not profitable. Yes fashion represents a small portion of sales but it’s still substantial revenues on top. When you do shows to sell perfumes, you don’t invest in a network of stores and things like that. We see it with Gaultier for example.

And Dior became a 1 billion house under Galliano. Yes, Hedi and later on Kris but also Victoire and others did their thing but the sales in all houses are driven by womenswear.

After 2007, I don’t know if it was the Carla Bruno effect but a lot of women started to buy more Dior clothes. I don’t know if they bought the sensationalist shows and all but Dior became suddenly about pretty dresses.
And I think in reality that the post 2007 era was more in tune with the image and clientele of Dior.
And in the brand I used to work for, some of our clients started to be invited at Dior events when our clientele was very different (whereas our menswear clients were practically the same).