Kenzo Menswear S/S 2023 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[THD96]

It's look like a Harajuku street style collection

I find the styling make everything look so cliché, it's young but not in the youthful or fresh way but more heavy-handed and juvenile. The hats especially the berets, made the whole outfit so look dated.

The bags are non-event and the flipflops are ugly tho.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I really appreciate how much Nigo is referencing and honoring Kenzo's roots. It's appropriately and refreshingly reverential.

It's definitely a huge improvement over the bizarre mess that was Carol and Humberto's stint or Felipe's doomed redux of it.

Nigo's creative brief is more or less the same but he's answering it with a fresh approach. It's definitely for the streetwear market but, like, the actual streetwear market. Not that fashion wannabe bandwagon crap that almost every other luxury brand is vomiting out. This is more in the realm of Supreme, Noah, or Aime Leon Dore (although the prices are a bit higher). It's a totally different mindset. Authenticity and legitimacy are paramount. With that in mind, the reverential Kenzo-isms are definitely the way to reach that audience but, I wonder, is it translating?

Do those retro nods to the OG Kenzo Takada and his early work register as something compelling and desirable?

I'm not at all the target audience for this but I quite like it (for what it's supposed to be). But that's moot. The real question is: are the Hypebeast boys hyped for it?

 

[jeanclaude]

Late 60s/early 70s primary school pupils. Reminds me of Scobby Doo (well, I´d say Scobby Doo characters look modern and adult, compared to this collection )

(elpais.com)

 

[mepps]

Lolz...

 

[Lola701]

I find it so charming but oh so right for KENZO. At least it has some personality and I find it refreshing that unlike of a lot others, his vision for Streetwear doesn’t stop at sneakers and sweatshirts.
The tailoring is solid, it’s honest in it offering. I’m not sure Im the target but the blue shirt dress is something I would wear.

I like Kenzo by Nigo!

 

[eugenius]

I like this...both as a runway show + as individual pieces.

It's definitely cutesy clothes for cutesy kids, like Kim's Dior Mens, but unlike Kim's Dior, it doesn't TRY to pass itself off as anything other than that. (Kim's Dior tries to pass itself off as MENSwear, but let's be serious...most of it won't look good on grown men past age 25...Exhibit A being the designer himself.)

I'm hoping this works out. If anything, it makes for some nice eye-candy on the runway, and there's nothing wrong with that.

 

[disco54]

I would say of the newer designers, Nigo has a pulse on things. Great tailoring and he reminds me of Marc Jacobs. I see a lot of potential in him compared to other designers, which is rare nowadays.

 

[donyan]

I seem to be the only one who finds this strangely underwhelming. It’s cutesy but completely nondescript, and says nothing apart from please like me . No exuberance or passion or even youthful madness.. it’s for the same people that would buy Desigual if it was acceptable

 

[Lola701]

I seem to be the only one who finds this strangely underwhelming. It’s cutesy but completely nondescript, and says nothing apart from please like me . No exuberance or passion or even youthful madness.. it’s for the same people that would buy Desigual if it was acceptable

I think it’s because he is not a dressmaker. He design with a very pragmatic approach and he is obviously working with fabrics he understand. It will be interesting to see this develop and see if he will integrate more womenswear in his future collections.

I bet LVMH is happy because his Kenzo won’t be expensive to produce. And I hope his arrival will bring more coherence to the house.