Lanvin F/W 2019.20 Paris

[guimon]

I honestly think it's an amazing debut and it's already one of my favorite collections and cast of the season. BUT, it lacks identity. It's too JW/Loewe/Celine by Phoebe.

At least it is much better and stronger than everything Olivier Lapidus ever did for the brand.

 

[lelaid]

 

[Norden]

I applaud the casualness of the collection. However given the circumstances of the house, a more dramatic presentation would have given it some extra oomph. In all the aggression of fashion week it gets lost. Another note, I find the accessories weak.

 

[dior_couture1245]

in general i kind of dislike the works of all those millenial designers, that guy of mugler,the bottega guy,this one here and the others that i cant remember right now. they all share the same vision,they all worked at the same houses, you can see all the influences of the houses they worked for so all collections look very similar.
seems like this generation has little substance, they just follow what they like instead of developing something on their own.

i dont care about alber either. especially his last collections. they were bad. but i liked that there was a clear vision, his own thing, message and style that didnt look like other designers.

HIT THE NAIL ON THE HEAD!

These millennial designers you mentioned are very poor. I think they all are more interested in making something extremely polished and extremely acceptable - at the expense of substance. None of them are fearless. None of them are interested in developing their own voice - and maybe it’s not even for lack of interest...it could very well be that there’s no voice to even find. They all read from the same script.

They just seem like good corporate designers, ultimately...happy to collect their big fat paycheck with the understanding they’re not to ruffle feathers or cause problems or to stray from the reservation.

 

[bc collector]

I can't quite make up my mind on this. If you're a die-hard Loewe fan, you may like it, but I still don't get why, at this point, you would want to get an ersatz version instead of the original one.
Lanvin did not start with Alber Elbaz, who nonetheless gave the brand a very definite identity in the fashion ecosystem. The Lanvin DNA is in soft fabrics and constructions, fluid lines, a sense of lightness and practicality that I can't quite see in here, or at least not enough.
Plus, the menswear is something that, unlike Ossendrijver's, you don't want to wear past the age of 16.
Lanvin used to be a brand for a more mature, sophisticated customer, while this patently stuff targeted for millennials.

 

[jeanclaude]

This doesn´t look like Lanvin at all. Mix some pics here with other collections from other brands; and this couldn´t be identified as Lanvin.

Those prints are horrible, I wonder if he´s being paid a bonus to use those discarded prints from the storage (so they can get rid of them).

Looks very boho...what boho style has to do with Lanvin?? Jeanne wasn´t a hippie girl playing the flute in company of a dog on the street!

 

[Ruito]

I said “since Alber “ .. sorry if it wasn’t clear

yeah, I know! I'm sorry.

 

[AnaD]

It's better than the travesty that was last season, but it's very much a 'followers' collection.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

I am sorry but this is Pure Loewe and nothing more. The shoes are pure loewe knock offs, the bags too.

Where is Lanvin's dna in this collection ? I am so bloody tired of these designers who signed a contract to work under a house and just sh*t on the archives.

So bye Bruno.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

There is some similarities with Loewe, however I find this better. It’s not pretentious, over designed, or heavily decorated like Loewe. I do wish that he would have kept some of the overt femeninity that Lanvin is known for. I know that pretty is taboo now but this is the house to do it. The same goes for Dior and Nina Ricci. I noticed he has an eye for tailoring. Everything is flattering to the body. That’s where Louis Vuitton struggles. JW Anderson also favors the potato sack shape. If he can push his aesthetic past this Loewe look he could really shine and become a major player in Paris.

 

[jeanclaude]

Has anyone noticed that Bruno has copied the same jackets, that Ghesquière copied for Balenciaga 2010 resort, from East West Musical Instruments Co???


vogue.com



::THE LOOK – adventures in rock and pop fashion:: » Balenciaga and Urban’s “dumb” East West knock-offs

What a great way to make a debut collection, copying an item who was copied by another famous designer...way to go, Bruno!!

 

[Nomar]

Some pieces are nice but overall it still looks like a mess.

 

[entten]

....... None of them are fearless. None of them are interested in developing their own voice - and maybe it’s not even for lack of interest...it could very well be that there’s no voice to even find. They all read from the same script.

They just seem like good corporate designers, ultimately...happy to collect their big fat paycheck with the understanding they’re not to ruffle feathers or cause problems or to stray from the reservation.

yes yes yes yes yes

@jeanclaude puh this! I thought of chloe, that it was very alike,but this is just -.-

 

[jeanclaude]

yes yes yes yes yes

@jeanclaude puh this! I thought of chloe, that it was very alike,but this is just -.-

I think the problem is that big brands are obsessed with hiring people coming only from expensive fashion schools. They believe if you have a degree from any of them, that means you have talent to do anything...but money can´t buy you talent.

And the results are miriads of disposable talentless designers ripping-off from the past (or even from just a few seasons ago) placed at the helm of ancient houses, like this one here. They come, they go...and no one will remember about them in the future. Just 15 minutes of fame...

 

[RedSmokeRise]

The color palette, the shapes, the styling, are all very "millennial" - which like others have said is just an amalgamation of what's cool right now versus steering into a defined direction. It's missing that extra bit of femininity that I want from Lanvin.

A lot to ask for, so lots of respect for him taking this role on. I'm not a fan but I'm not hating on it either! I'm intrigued to see where this can go.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

i like it, but nascent stages of identity

 

[bennyboy]

nothing like Lanvin , feel more like Loewe

 

[Lola701]

And the results are miriads of disposable talentless designers ripping-off from the past (or even from just a few seasons ago) placed at the helm of ancient houses, like this one here. They come, they go...and no one will remember about them in the future. Just 15 minutes of fame...

It’s sad but true but nobody cares about designers anymore. It’s all about the brands!

Today it’s all about the sales. You only have to see what talents like Nicolas and Riccardo have to go through in order to survive.

It’s a business after all and like in any business, you have to make yourself valuable. Alber was also a disposable designer when he started. Lanvin’s turnover of designer between Claude Montana and Alber was kinda impressive.

Alber did what? 2 seasons at Laroche, 4 at Saint Laurent, 1 at Krizia. Lanvin was a lost cause and he had time to develop his aesthetic there.

I don’t want to be definitive about the new Lanvin but for the first time, something is finally happening there. I want to give him time...
We also should be able to give time to designers...

 

[jeanclaude]

I don’t want to be definitive about the new Lanvin but for the first time, something is finally happening there. I want to give him time...
We also should be able to give time to designers...

I don´t have any hope for Bruno, the moment I saw he copied two jackets from 60s-70s brand East West Musical Instruments Co...that´s not a way to debut in a brand like Lanvin, it´s an embarrassment.

That kind of behaviour doesn´t tell "I am gonna work hard to give Lanvin a make-over and make it relevant again", that screams "I am a lazy bump, I don´t care about making clothes for this brand, Loewe; or any other one...as long as they pay me a lot of money for each collection".

Just another fashion mercenary.

 

[dodencebt]

That kind of behaviour doesn´t tell "I am gonna work hard to give Lanvin a make-over and make it relevant again", that screams "I am a lazy bump, I don´t care about making clothes for this brand, Loewe; or any other one...as long as they pay me a lot of money for each collection".

I don't agree with this sentiment one bit. You can dislike his work, you can call it unoriginal and inappropriate for Lanvin but objectively this is a well-designed and fully developed collection with impeccable finishing and a great fit, which are things that can only be achieved through hard work. I'm sorry but you can't call him lazy when at least 70% of designers these days are churning out MGC-at-Dior-level basics that pay no attention to detail or fit and are more interested in social media and marketing than actually spending time in a studio.