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From the New York Times
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February 14, 2003
Talk of the Tents: What's Behind a Designer's Exit?
By RUTH LA FERLA
Neither the backing of key retailers nor the support of leading society figures could spare Lars Nilsson, the designer for Bill Blass, the pain of being fired on Wednesday, a day after he showed his fifth collection for the house.
Mr. Nilsson's dismissal, as abrupt as it was unforeseen, came on the heels of lackluster performance at retail, the company said. Retail sales of the line exceeded $20 million last year. Nonetheless, Michael Groveman, a principal in the company, said that while the collections had been well received by the fashion press, they "reflected a radical departure from the spirit of the house." As a result, he said, "sales did not live up to expectations."
Mr. Groveman declined to comment on rumors that the designer Michael Vollbracht would head a new design team, or to elaborate on why Mr. Nilsson was dismissed a day after his show. "It is never a good time," he said. "It was simply something we thought we had to do."
Nevertheless, his decision to send Mr. Nilsson and five other design employees packing in the middle of Fashion Week was the talk of the tents, its timing sending a message that the company lacked confidence in the collection.
The dismissal was also a shock to former devotees of Mr. Blass's snappy but understated suits and dresses, who had rallied behind Mr. Nilsson in recent months. "Lars was finding his way as a young designer," said Blaine Trump, who purchased several items, including a pinstripe suit, from Mr. Nilsson's spring collection. "It was one of the best-cut suits I've ever worn," she said.
Others inside the industry said that Mr. Nilsson's failure to respect the Blass legacy culminated in tension between the designer and the owners. André Leon Talley, Vogue's editor at large, described the atmosphere last weekend as seething with frustration. Mr. Nilsson, he said, seemed "pent up because the owners were so hands-on."
"He couldn't even do an embroidery unless it was approved," Mr. Talley said, adding that such restrictive conditions were not typical in the industry. "Before the show, I did feel that you could cut the tension with a knife."
Mr. Nilsson conceded that there had been friction. "I was frustrated," he said, "because there had never been a clear message about where the company wanted to be in one year or five years." He added that he had been forced to submit every design for the owners' approval, "something which can be quite hard in the creative process."
Mr. Nilsson added that he found the timing of his dismissal "very punishing." "We've really been building up an incredible relationship with the stores," he said.
Retailers were divided in their assessment of Mr. Nilsson's performance. "He struck a balance between keeping the integrity of the house and propelling it forward," said Jacqui Lividini, the senior vice president for fashion merchandising at Saks.
At Bergdorf Goodman, however, Robert Burke, the fashion director, said that recent Blass collections had been somewhat disappointing. The challenge for a designer taking the reins at a legendary house, he said, is to satisfy existing clientele and at the same time find a new customer. "Lars may have had a degree of success, but I think old-line customers were not all that charmed."
And the old-line folx sure can vote with their wallets, or their husbands' wallets, as it were.
Copyright 2003 The New York Times Company
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
February 14, 2003
Talk of the Tents: What's Behind a Designer's Exit?
By RUTH LA FERLA
Neither the backing of key retailers nor the support of leading society figures could spare Lars Nilsson, the designer for Bill Blass, the pain of being fired on Wednesday, a day after he showed his fifth collection for the house.
Mr. Nilsson's dismissal, as abrupt as it was unforeseen, came on the heels of lackluster performance at retail, the company said. Retail sales of the line exceeded $20 million last year. Nonetheless, Michael Groveman, a principal in the company, said that while the collections had been well received by the fashion press, they "reflected a radical departure from the spirit of the house." As a result, he said, "sales did not live up to expectations."
Mr. Groveman declined to comment on rumors that the designer Michael Vollbracht would head a new design team, or to elaborate on why Mr. Nilsson was dismissed a day after his show. "It is never a good time," he said. "It was simply something we thought we had to do."
Nevertheless, his decision to send Mr. Nilsson and five other design employees packing in the middle of Fashion Week was the talk of the tents, its timing sending a message that the company lacked confidence in the collection.
The dismissal was also a shock to former devotees of Mr. Blass's snappy but understated suits and dresses, who had rallied behind Mr. Nilsson in recent months. "Lars was finding his way as a young designer," said Blaine Trump, who purchased several items, including a pinstripe suit, from Mr. Nilsson's spring collection. "It was one of the best-cut suits I've ever worn," she said.
Others inside the industry said that Mr. Nilsson's failure to respect the Blass legacy culminated in tension between the designer and the owners. André Leon Talley, Vogue's editor at large, described the atmosphere last weekend as seething with frustration. Mr. Nilsson, he said, seemed "pent up because the owners were so hands-on."
"He couldn't even do an embroidery unless it was approved," Mr. Talley said, adding that such restrictive conditions were not typical in the industry. "Before the show, I did feel that you could cut the tension with a knife."
Mr. Nilsson conceded that there had been friction. "I was frustrated," he said, "because there had never been a clear message about where the company wanted to be in one year or five years." He added that he had been forced to submit every design for the owners' approval, "something which can be quite hard in the creative process."
Mr. Nilsson added that he found the timing of his dismissal "very punishing." "We've really been building up an incredible relationship with the stores," he said.
Retailers were divided in their assessment of Mr. Nilsson's performance. "He struck a balance between keeping the integrity of the house and propelling it forward," said Jacqui Lividini, the senior vice president for fashion merchandising at Saks.
At Bergdorf Goodman, however, Robert Burke, the fashion director, said that recent Blass collections had been somewhat disappointing. The challenge for a designer taking the reins at a legendary house, he said, is to satisfy existing clientele and at the same time find a new customer. "Lars may have had a degree of success, but I think old-line customers were not all that charmed."
And the old-line folx sure can vote with their wallets, or their husbands' wallets, as it were.
Copyright 2003 The New York Times Company
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