Lemaire S/S 2026 Paris

[Lola701]

I really don’t understand why he’s not still at Hermes 🥲

His Hermes wasn’t that great. I guess coming after Gaultier wasn’t easy. He was definitely less consistent at Hermes than he is now.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I don’t know. I’m not exactly seeing it but I appreciate what it’s trying to do. But I think it’s trying too much, with introduction of different fabrics, colours, the men’s against the women’s, and frankly what I see as hideous footwear.

This looks to me what Peter Do tried to do at his namesake and Lang. It feels more honest here though I don’t love most of it. Colours leave little to be desired, and that’s okay always something I can entrust in Lemaire. Though I sense experimentation, so perhaps next season will flesh some of this out more.

 

[tricotineacetat]

His Hermes wasn’t that great. I guess coming after Gaultier wasn’t easy. He was definitely less consistent at Hermes than he is now.

You can see a lot of improvement from the first few collections onwards - The Rousseau-themed SS’14 collection was a stunner, though - It delivered the right amount of 'fashion' while at the same time delivering pieces that have that timeless heirloom appeal you expect from a house like Hermès.

I’m not unhappy he moved on as his gig with Uniqlo and envigoring his own brand greatly elevated the perception of Lemaire. Plus, I’m happy he didn’t get to replace Phoebe at Celine - That would have put him in unnecessary comparison to hers'.

 

[Norden]

His Hermes wasn’t that great. I guess coming after Gaultier wasn’t easy. He was definitely less consistent at Hermes than he is now.

I loved his last set of collections at Hermes, in terms of style and dressing it was very tasteful. But the beginning of his tenure was very uneven.

This is a great show for Lemaire and its customers, very confident, lush textures and light. What I appreciate is how distinct his cut and fabric are, even in his workwear inspired pieces there’s still poetry and nuance.

 

[Lola701]

You can see a lot of improvement from the first few collections onwards - The Rousseau-themed SS’14 collection was a stunner, though - It delivered the right amount of 'fashion' while at the same time delivering pieces that have that timeless heirloom appeal you expect from a house like Hermès.

I’m not unhappy he moved on as his gig with Uniqlo and envigoring his own brand greatly elevated the perception of Lemaire. Plus, I’m happy he didn’t get to replace Phoebe at Celine - That would have put him in unnecessary comparison to hers'.

I loved his last set of collections at Hermes, in terms of style and dressing it was very tasteful. But the beginning of his tenure was very uneven.

This is a great show for Lemaire and its customers, very confident, lush textures and light. What I appreciate is how distinct his cut and fabric are, even in his workwear inspired pieces there’s still poetry and nuance.

I only liked his FW2013 collection for Hermes. I think it was perfect, modern, timeless and mostly a perfect illustration of what Hermes RTW should be.

A lot of his stuff however looked too much like 80’s Anne Marie Beretta. I like it as a reference in general but it was sometimes too derivative of that.

 

[jeremydante]

This runway staging distracted from the clothes for me.
I wasn't as excited about this collection, this season- it felt pretty regz to me. Pedestrian.