Lemarie Menswear F/W 2022.23 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[yslforever]

It is literally everything that Hermès and Bottega Veneta should be.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

It's been sort of the same collection for a few years now. Layers on layers, since SS20? But god I love it still.

 

[THD96]

There are individuals pieces that I love but I'm beyond tired of his layering game. He need a new stylist who can add a new perspective to his designs.

Also he needs to stop this co-ed show because his women is always outshine his men.

 

[MulletProof]

lol.. fashion week these days. 'Menswear' but opens with 6 female models in womenswear and closes with the same. Womenswear is just easier to design and explore, you can even be lazy about it and be on autopilot for years, men's clothing for better or for worse is always more restricted to details and conventions, and details are a universe.. so, can't work around that? this amount of womenswear in shows (cause not talking exclusively about Lemaire) only says oops, too lazy and stupid limited for menswear.

Anyway judging it for what it is, the reds are nice.. the brown looks look like leftovers from Fall 2020.

 

[LadyJunon]

lol.. fashion week these days. 'Menswear' but opens with 6 female models in womenswear and closes with the same. Womenswear is just easier to design and explore, you can even be lazy about it and be on autopilot for years, men's clothing for better or for worse is always more restricted to details and conventions, and details are a universe.. so, can't work around that? this amount of womenswear in shows (cause not talking exclusively about Lemaire) only says oops, too lazy and stupid limited for menswear.

Anyway judging it for what it is, the reds are nice.. the brown looks look like leftovers from Fall 2020.

While I liked the collection (the show video pissed me off though), the Womenswear at Menswear always reads as if they've had a budget cut. And because Womenswear is more relevant, they merge their collections to make it that the Womenswear markets the Menswear, but the Womenswear always upstages it. Same at Jacquemus, same at Versace, same at most Kering owned brands.

 

[YohjiAddict]

I like it very much but I’m definitely curious to know if he’s conscious that this cannot go on forever…stagnation’s not the way to go in fashion and he’s too talented to stop trying. I hope he soon takes an exotic vacation or something, to get his juices flowing once more.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I like it very much but I’m definitely curious to know if he’s conscious that this cannot go on forever…stagnation’s not the way to go in fashion and he’s too talented to stop trying. I hope he soon takes an exotic vacation or something, to get his juices flowing once more.

I'm afraid the problem is more a methodical one with these two - All these heavily layered silhouettes, despite conjuring a sense of intiricacy and nomadism, feel unlikely to be worn like this by anyone - You don't lure anyone into buying a winter coat and a bomber jacket in the same fabric just because that styling on the show looked good in pictures and I will yet have to see a woman wearing a quilted blanket wrapped around the hips over another skirt or dress! This problem reminds me so much of Ann Demeulemeester or Helmut Lang's collections towards the end of both their respective tenures - Their collections became like artful collages that only ever worked when you had all the pieces assembled just like that.

What I would like to see from Lemaire is a collection that looks good in a much more simplified way. Emphasizing a bit more on a tailoring aspect that feels very much absent throughout the entirety of his work of the past years (sadly also at his work for Uniqlo...). He is good in an 'elevated sportswear' kind of way but neither a dressmaker nor a tailor which is what limits his vision.