Limi Feu F/W 2023.24 Tokyo

[Drusilla_]

I can see what Yohji means by 'it's an introduction' to the YY universe, the pieces look easy to wear but youthful and it caters to a subculture that's actually something of a Japanese perennial, so yes, in that sense it is timeless.

 

[softgrey]

i freaking love it...
it's obviously very courtney love in terms of hair and make up but more punk in terms of the clothes...
and there can never be too much tartan, imo ~!!

best limi collection in a long time, imo...
very cohesive with a strong point of view...
clothes are mostly very forgiving and can be worn by many body types...

i've been noticing the higher prices that you mentioned @runner
Yohji's lines are much higher now as well...from what the NYC staff told me, the first section of dresses from the upcoming fall collection are all approx $10,000...

i've been thinking that with so many other lines under the same umbrella, they must be doing quite well with many of the lower priced labels like s'Yte, ground Y, etc...
maybe that allows yohji and limi more opportunity to push the envelope and experiment with different designs and fabrics since they don't have to carry the weight of the whole company with their own brands...
so they can have items that maybe they only sell one or very few of each while the rest of the brands provide the foundation and support for them to create...

of course, this is just what i'm getting from observing the whole business...

if limi is like tao/tricot, well...tao/tricot is also really $$$ a lot of the time...

 

[runner]

I like it better when shoes are not limi. head to toe limi could sometimes be a bit too much to me.

the first pic -all limi
the second look - limi with Y's boots








theshop

 

[softgrey]

^^
thanks for the images @runner

i definitely agree about the shoes...
i think her shoes are often quite aggressive...

love the coats though...
i think coats and oversized knits are a strong area for her in general...

 

[softgrey]

i could see this collection with her past dr martens collab...
these are a good balance of aggressive + kawaii imho...
i've never owned a pair of docs but i might wear these...

 

[runner]

^yes they will work. she should make them teiban.

her clothes in general can also be aggressive + kawaii, and as a result, coquettish occasionally.

as for the first outfit, the wearer and the coat are already great. it could be better to let the rest be the supporting roles. otherwise, possibly something near mj, beyond skeban punk.
some might like it a bit messy like that though.



sekaimon

 

[softgrey]

^^ THAT is the definition of "hot topic" punk, in my opinion...
punk as costume...

amazing how those 80's boots are so obviously the reference for the toga pulla boots they are famous for...
i remember seeing them at Trash n Vaudeville on St Marks Place...

 

[runner]

^^ THAT is the definition of "hot topic" punk, in my opinion...
punk as costume...

or the subculture that has been swallowed up in pop culture. what has been consumed by the masses.

YY (including its universe and limi) is of depraved blood. in the sense of deviating from the center, mainstream, or what is considered proper. at least its spirit has been drawing its nourishment more from the negative than from the positive.
walking on the wild side.
outsiders like bankara, sukeban, ladies (biker girl gangs), decotora, yakuza, etc. they all are well-known to lots of people now, but manege to remain rarity.

















iwanichi
bankaraiwae
heads
wildside-online

 

[Darko]

Why those idiotic masks
That is so 2020

 

[runner]

^ to lightly conceal their identity, for example from the police. (partly serious)

 

[softgrey]

thanks for the images @runner

found some pretty good info on bankara which I was not super familiar with...

Bankara - Meiji Japan’s Anti-Fashion Movement - Unseen Japan

As the era of the samurai ended and Japan rushed towards modernization, a rough-scrabble fashion movement called Bankara rose in opposition.

unseen-japan.com

this article calls it an "anti-fashion movement" which I didn't understand right away but the article explains it well. Yohji has said numerous times that he also hates fashion so i can see the relationship there...

i just picked up a pair of barely worn suede booties from LIMI feu f/w 12...
maybe her stuff was a bit more influenced by western/european styles back then...
anyway...i love them~!!

 

[softgrey]

This coat from the current season actually reminds me of something from fw12, which is maybe why I like this season...cause I liked a lot of fw12...
even though the styling is different, a lot of her core aesthetics can be found in individual pieces...

the prices really are so much higher now... $1566
it's not even cashmere...
i do love it though...
it's a perfect 1950;s style dior or balenciaga swing coat but with that cool sharp notched collar...
v. good stuff, imo...
i had a fantastic red swing coat in the 80's...i miss that thing...

 

[softgrey]

FW 12 coat is more true to the 1950's aesthetic with the shawl collar...
the one from this season is more modern and has more of a "limi signature" aesthetic...
i think it's safe to say that she has evolved as a designer while staying true to her personal point of view...

*those are the boots i just picked up...
they have a hidden wedge inside...

 

[Nimsay]

That lace up coat is gorgeous.

i just think this is such a cosmopolitan look. this can only exist with a backdrop of uniqlo clad mothers in a urban cityscape full of people. Its so incredibly niche and decadent. Only someone who has been exposed to a lot would find value in these clothes because of how elevated they are. Even walking around rural japan in these clothes would be kinda ridiculous. I think to be chic you have to be international and look good everywhere so - to me - these clothes are not chic. Theyre still good statement pieces but only make sense in NYC and Tokyo really.

 

[runner]

something to wear can look ridiculous when it is too far from life, or reality, necessity, rationality, functionality, utility, practicality, etc.
but, for it to be fashion, it has to keep some distance from life. as long as fashion is a certain form of questing (or expressing) spirit. life vs spirit.
if you are addicted to life, spirit will be frozen to be a sleeper. you are a flesh robot.
if spirit is out of control, life will get unhealthy.

for jeans to a fashion item, they had to be worn in cities, deviating from when miners were wearing them in mines.

the question is how far - how to deviate. but somewhere out of mere life anyway. there will always be someone who is attracted to the deviant, anywhere.

as for the coat, I guess it looks nice and romantic especially in sapporo, the northmost large city in japan.
on the other hand, it may not look good to me in naha, the southernmost densely populated city whose winter is super mild. any heavy long coat can be difficult there most of the season, too far and too much. and the idea of wearing nothing under the coat due to the temperature would be a bit risky. they might consider you simply a pervert.

 

[runner]

this article calls it an "anti-fashion movement" which I didn't understand right away but the article explains it well. Yohji has said numerous times that he also hates fashion so i can see the relationship there...

i just picked up a pair of barely worn suede booties from LIMI feu f/w 12...
maybe her stuff was a bit more influenced by western/european styles back then...
anyway...i love them~!!

anti-fashion is a kind of fashion which proclaims that it hates fashion. in other words, it negates fashion by means of fashion. the self-negation of fashion. that fashion is longing for what is not fashion, that is, non-fashion.
basically non-fashion has nothing to do with fashion while anti-fashion has much to do with fashion because it would not have existed without fashion.
but the reason for the self-negation is because of creation. something new doesn't come from self-satisfaction.

"hey, you! don't be so satisfied" - ango sakaguchi, yohji's favorite writer


the boots seem to be very you. a real find.

 

[runner]

theshopyohjiyamamoto

 

[softgrey]

anti-fashion is a kind of fashion which proclaims that it hates fashion. in other words, it negates fashion by means of fashion. the self-negation of fashion. that fashion is longing for what is not fashion, that is, non-fashion.
basically non-fashion has nothing to do with fashion while anti-fashion has much to do with fashion because it would not have existed without fashion.
but the reason for the self-negation is because of creation. something new doesn't come from self-satisfaction.

"hey, you! don't be so satisfied" - ango sakaguchi, yohji's favorite writer


the boots seem to be very you. a real find.

wakatta...arigatou...x
i remember yayoi kusama also talked about self-negation...