Louis Vuitton Pre-Fall 2023 Seoul

[LadyJunon]

 

[Tchi]

Very beautiful!
Rumors are that Natacha joined back LV at pre collection. I can definitely read her sensibility here and it feels very very welcome

 

[LadyJunon]

Nice collection, but a bit too commercial in terms of what I prefer from Ghesquière.

It reminds me too much of the 2015/16 period where he was stuck in between his Balenciaga look and his Louis Vuitton look. The footwear was questionsable at best.

In the end, Ghesquière wore the best look.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[RedSmokeRise]

I love when he goes super commercial so this is a win for me.

 

[THD96]

I love everything, and the scenography was the cherry on top.

I like that despite being a very commercial collection, even when he covered all of LV's bestseller categories, this doesn't feel like a parade of merchandise ( à la MGC). This maybe not moving the needle but there are some interesting fashion propositions.
Nicolas is very self-reference, some elements in this collection reminded me of his Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2012.
The last few looks with the flowy silhouettes are indeed very Natacha for Chloé, even down to the styling.
MAS did a great job with the styling. I'm glad that she kept it simple and didn't try to overcomplicate everything with her layering. She helped to elevate a straightforward collection.

It's great to see that Nicolas and MAS delivered something commercially without sacrificing their vision. Now I can't wait for their show in Italy next month.

 

[Avonlea]

It's very product oriented which is understandable but I wish there was a clear direction. I prefer when designers stick to one theme/gimmick and make collection around it, even if it's a pre fall or resort.

 

[Lola701]

It’s funny because Prefall collections are designed between the SS and FW. So far they are meant to be presented in December/January. At Vuitton they aren’t meant to be directional…As we see it here and as it has always been the case, it’s like the greatest hits of Nicolas.

Of course I love it. Those are the clothes that will be in stores in like 3/4 weeks. I like that he didn’t add « show pieces ».
Looks 5 to 8 are fabulous. The eveningwear section too, specially the part inspired by the SS2022 collection.

Pietro Beccari was clever holding a show now as I guess clients will go to buy the clothes just for the resort show in addition to the stuff that some of them pre-ordered already from the SS one. That being said, I didn’t like the set.

If they continue with that calendar and if Nicolas doesn’t feel the need to have a directional offering overtime, maybe this type of collections needs to be shown in the flagship stores one time a year. After all, this is an over-the-top trunkshow.

 

[jeanclaude]

For me this looks as heavy as an old Vuitton trunk. I am tired of this 80s retro-futurism with LV logos here and there.

And I miss his Balenciaga days more and more. You could see NG evolving there with each new collection...now he is stuck in a never-ending loop.

 

[WAVES]

oh dear this was difficult to watch.
overall mediocre with some saving looks and pieces.
after an interesting F/W 23/24 collection NG is back on his bullsh*t.
the last half was incredibly bad.

 

[Nimsay]

The best looks were the jumpsuits and tje looks with the huge clip belt. The finale was I think an homage to traditional Korean womens garments. Very loose and airy.

otherwise kind of a mess like most Ghesquiere LV. they just let him do whatever it seems.


The eye makeup is a total miss - its giving conjunctivitis.

 

[LadyJunon]

For me this looks as heavy as an old Vuitton trunk. I am tired of this 80s retro-futurism with LV logos here and there.

And I miss his Balenciaga days more and more. You could see NG evolving there with each new collection...now he is stuck in a never-ending loop.

oh dear this was difficult to watch.
overall mediocre with some saving looks and pieces.
after an interesting F/W 23/24 collection NG is back on his bullsh*t.
the last half was incredibly bad.

The most frustrating thing is that most of the issues are easily fixable:
• slim down most of the silhouettes in the first ⅔ of the show to better convey dynamism and movement
• blow up a couple of the jackets for drama
• add a sort of leather feature to the final dresses (maybe a corset or a bustier)
• scrap the plunging V-necks
• switch the shoes for a slim boot like Fall'23
• choose between the blue or the red (not both)

I'm expecting that the Isola Bella show in May to be more directional and sure of itself in terms of Ghesquiere's Louis Vuitton collections.

 

[jeanclaude]

The most frustrating thing is that most of the issues are easily fixable:
• slim down most of the silhouettes in the first ⅔ of the show to better convey dynamism and movement
• blow up a couple of the jackets for drama
• add a sort of leather feature to the final dresses (maybe a corset or a bustier)
• scrap the plunging V-necks
• switch the shoes for a slim boot like Fall'23
• choose between the blue or the red (not both)

I'm expecting that the Isola Bella show in May to be more directional and sure of itself in terms of Ghesquiere's Louis Vuitton collections.

I am more radical: stop making pre-fall and resort collections, give time to NG to breathe; so he can develop 2 interesting womenswear collections per year.

Of course this is impossible nowadays, because money makes the world go round, and all that crap...

 

[Malaya]

Yeah this is very reminiscent of his earlier days at LV. I see many bits and pieces of the cruise collections he did in Rio and Palm Springs. I like it, it looks very commercial and straightforward.

 

[LadyJunon]

I am more radical: stop making pre-fall and resort collections, give time to NG to breathe; so he can develop 2 interesting womenswear collections per year.

Of course this is impossible nowadays, because money makes the world go round, and all that crap...

It would much cheaper for Louis Vuitton too.

If I'm remembering correctly, Ghesquière was doing 6 collections a year back at Balenciaga, two menswear collections, two womenswear collections and two pre-collections. At Louis Vuitton, we only see four.

That said, while his main shows are approximately the same length (40 to 50 looks), his pre-collections have doubled in size to accommodate the breadth need for a runway show. Not to mention, he probably has to direct any secondary/tertiary lines that fall under the womenswear category.

I feel that if Balenciaga hadn't had sued him, he wouldn't have been "forced" to take the Louis Vuitton job, leaving him free to pursue his own label or something along those lines...

 

[THD96]

I feel that if Balenciaga hadn't had sued him, he wouldn't have been "forced" to take the Louis Vuitton job, leaving him free to pursue his own label or something along those lines...

Forced is a little bit of a stretch because Nicolas around 2012-13 was the most sought-after designer at that time, so I don't think he was struggling to get a job offer. Even without the messy breakup at Balenciaga, his joining the LVMH was only a matter of time. I mean Delphine has always been a close friend and his most vocal supporter.
Joining LV means fixing all of the frustration that he has at Balenciaga. He has supporting bosses that handle all the business decisions and give him full creative freedom to express himself.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

This does feel like a mix and match of pieces from a lot of his earlier LV collections, with styling directions taken from his more current ones so it does feel like a really chaotic trunk show overall. I wouldn't say it is a retrospective collection, but it's heavily self-referential.

Still great pieces to choose from, you just have to do the frustrating task of looking for them beneath the styling and beyond what is a horrible shoe choice.

 

[Lola701]

It would much cheaper for Louis Vuitton too.

If I'm remembering correctly, Ghesquière was doing 6 collections a year back at Balenciaga, two menswear collections, two womenswear collections and two pre-collections. At Louis Vuitton, we only see four.

That said, while his main shows are approximately the same length (40 to 50 looks), his pre-collections have doubled in size to accommodate the breadth need for a runway show. Not to mention, he probably has to direct any secondary/tertiary lines that fall under the womenswear category.

Balenciaga had a different size and Balenciaga precollections were exactly like this collection because they weren’t meant for the runway: He used some of the ideas from previous collections or did more commercial version of the upcoming collection with some archival pieces from Cristobal.

Pietro Beccari decided to have a show when he became the head. It wasn’t meant to be shown on the runway…

I like that there isn’t any drama actually. I love the creativity of his shows and so far the commercial versions are also great. I feel like this collection kinda grounded his work….Because there are people who believes that the reality of Vuitton RTW is just selling logo pieces. And while his silhouette has evolved into something more agressive, I think that the silhouettes from 10 years ago are still.

‘That being said nobody would ever catch me in those huge shoes. My love for his work has it limits.

 

[thismortalcoil]

I’m not really a fan of Ghesquire’s work at Vuitton. The makeup is on this show is rough - they all look like they’ve been ripping into bongs backstage!