Louis Vuitton: The proverbial fashion mix — Marc Jacobs has been there with bells on. “I hate to use the word eclectic,” he said the day before his show. “But I did this collection about 10 years ago — it was called grunge. If that wasn’t about things that don’t go together, I don’t know what is.”
Since that seminal moment de mode at Perry Ellis, the whimsical mix has been a hallmark of Jacobs’ aesthetic, one he developed in New York and ultimately brought to Vuitton. “Every house has its girl,” Jacobs continued. “Ours is flirtatious and feminine.” And increasingly, famous, since, in the past few seasons, the Hollywood set — Cameron, Nicole, Gwen Stefani — has started to discover Vuitton as a go-to resource for more than just the gotta-have bag. (Not to worry, spring offers plenty of those, from off-the-shelf monogrammed denims — the next Murakamis? — to incredible “couture” sharkskin patchworks, for trunk show-only distribution.)
To make the celebrity point, Jacobs had the adorable Christina Ricci open his show and step down off the runway to the front row, where she sat just in front of her mom. They then settled in for a mega-mix that swerved simultaneously in multiple directions, some beautiful clothes nearly getting lost in the flurry. There were terrific coats, often belted in silver shine, and delightful small sweaters with fabric collars. Jacobs loves a dress done up this way or that, and worked the daylights out of racy white stretch, variously adding a lacy bodice, a huge floral cascade across one shoulder and, just for fun, a tutu peplum. When opting out of white, why choose basic stripes when you can add a frill in front and a bustle in back?
Jacobs went Fifties in Lucille Ball volume and sexy-secretary curves, Forties in pinup swimwear, Barnum & Bailey in glitter galore, and even hoedown happy in decorated hootenanny skirts. And he mixed florals with stripes with brocades with tweeds, all the while piling on embellishments — including some of his new glittered-up sunglasses, his latest collaboration, designed with, of all people, Pharrell Williams.
With all that going on, the collection lacked a unifying focus beyond its beguiling girliness. And girly it was, so much so that the sight of two models in fab LV-monogrammed denim offered happy relief. Moreover, no matter how quirky it might get, a typical Jacobs collection radiates chic. This time, it was tough to extract the chic from the stuff.